066 meltdown and rebuild

[Phramer Phil]

Double check your big and small end rod bearings to make sure all the needles are there. Some foreign object definately went through that engine. Good luck on the rebuild. What are you doing for a P&C?

Will do. Should be able to split the case tonight.

P&C wise I really like the idea of a BB kit from baileys, however I have heard mixed reviews on their 1st production run. Any thoughts?

 

[DSS]

Everyone wants one, but the last two 038 Supers I had up for sale took weeks to find a home. 066's, 026's, 200T's...move quickly. 038's, low profit and weak movers.

I find that strange. I have never owned one......yet. A buddy used to have one. Every time he put it down in the woods, I seemed to pick it up by accident. Funny. I do know one thing, if I ever find one close to home I'll drag the s.o.b. home so fast It'll think it grew up there. :greenchainsaw:

 

[bonden]

Will do. Should be able to split the case tonight.

P&C wise I really like the idea of a BB kit from baileys, however I have heard mixed reviews on their 1st production run. Any thoughts?

I think the updated 066 BB kit from Baileys is about to come wherry soon now ,it has the reduced volume in the combustion chamber ? i think.I Have broken one of the earliest kits on my saw but got a new one for free ,so both my BB saws run fine now, i use the 660 BB for my Logosol sawmill .

 

[mtngun]

P&C wise I really like the idea of a BB kit from baileys, however I have heard mixed reviews on their 1st production run. Any thoughts?

It varies, but I was extremely disappointed with the anemic compression ratio on my BB kit. I wouldn't buy another one until the 2nd generation comes out. The release date keeps getting pushed back, but last I heard Grande Dog was talking sometime in March.

Another thought is that I'm not so sure that your OEM jug couldn't be put back into service. True, it has that nasty ding between the transfer ports, but that doesn't effect compression. If you lightly sand the ding so that nothing is protruding, it might just work. No guarantees, though.

I think the 2nd generation BB is going to be a winner, so it might be worth waiting for.

 

[Phramer Phil]

In better days:

Painted the air filter shroud with Rustoleum "Gloss Orange" and clear coat. Holds up well to gas! Thanks for the tip Mr. Snelling!

I've been using the kitchen more than the garage so far on this project...

Shameless plug for a company that I haven't worked for in years:

Didn't get my case splitting jig made last night, hoping to finish it up today.

 

[Phramer Phil]

Sorry for the semi-pointless bump, but I'm still in need of an IPL and service manual...

 

[Meadow Beaver]

Got to community then click on social groups, and join Infomaniacs group. So is the saw running?

 

[Phramer Phil]

Got to community then click on social groups, and join Infomaniacs group. So is the saw running?

Messaged Dibbs, thanks for the heads up!

Running? It hasn't learned that yet. It does "sit","stay" and "play dead" though.

Smart-ass remarks aside, the saw was not running when I tore it down, if that's what you're wondering.

 

[Phramer Phil]

Split and cleaned:

Crank:

Little smutting (yes, that is a technical term):

Primed:

Assembled:

 

[GPETER]

Nice welder Phil! I've got the same one. It has done me so well and paid for itself many times over (in just exhaust repairs).

Once I got gas it made things alot smoother.

I wish you all the best with the rebuild. I am slowly working on an 064 myself.

 

[Phramer Phil]

Nice welder Phil! I've got the same one. It has done me so well and paid for itself many times over (in just exhaust repairs).

Once I got gas it made things alot smoother.

I wish you all the best with the rebuild. I am slowly working on an 064 myself.

Thanks!

That little welder has more spools through it than I can count. I have a gas setup, but I enjoy the added heat that flux-core offers for a 110V machine.

X2 on paying for itself.

With a little pre-heat and pam cooking spray I've found it easy to weld cast.

Built all of the bumpers, and did a 3-link solid axle swap on my Tacoma.

Anyway, enough of my horn-tooting.

 

[Phramer Phil]

Update:

Ordered a new oiler from ebay.

Ordered a BB kit, gaskets and a compression release valve from Bailey's.

Booty-fabbing my own fly wheel side press today. I'll post some pictures up this evening.

 

[SkippyKtm]

I do a bit of welding myself, and have used preheating (especially on cast) numerous times with good results. But what is the pam cooking spray for? I always like learning something new, -rep sent your way!

 

[Phramer Phil]

I do a bit of welding myself, and have used preheating (especially on cast) numerous times with good results. But what is the pam cooking spray for? I always like learning something new, -rep sent your way!

The flux-core process can be inherently messy because of the somewhat inconsistent shielding as the flux captures weld impurities and carries them away from the weld pool to form slag. Entrained air, poor grounding and other reacting impurities will cause and excess amount of spatter.

To mitigate this, I spray a light coating of non-stick cooking spray to on the surrounding areas. Leave about an inch or so from the weld itself.

Un-Pam'ed weld. Note the brown smoke deposits and spatter which will have to be ground/chipped off.

With cooking spray, the smoke and slag get trapped in the spray and can be wiped off easily afterward.

 

[GPETER]

Holy Sweet Taco Batman!

I Like the bumpers! I am a Yota man myself, my screen name is GPETER for a reason (say it a few times fast).

I have the 220V version of the welder or '175' version of the series.

What are you using to preheat the cast? The reason I ask is that my woodstove poker nees some repair but I was hesitant to weld it because it is cast. Would a MAAP torch work for such a small part (about 1/2" dia)?

 

[Phramer Phil]

Holy Sweet Taco Batman!

I Like the bumpers! I am a Yota man myself, my screen name is GPETER for a reason (say it a few times fast).

I have the 220V version of the welder or '175' version of the series.

What are you using to preheat the cast? The reason I ask is that my woodstove poker nees some repair but I was hesitant to weld it because it is cast. Would a MAAP torch work for such a small part (about 1/2" dia)?

Thanks! It redefines a "labor of love". Chainsaw stuff is far cheaper and easier to mod!

I use a MAPP torch for my pre-heat purposes, although you can use a BBQ, or open pit fire, or oxy-acetylene.

If it was structural, I'd recommend using a wire with a high nickel content, which is the easiest way to get a strong weld w/o a lot of resources.

Post heating isn't as important on non-critical items, but its a good habit to get into. The idea is to let the metal cool down nice and slow to make sure everything has time to solidify nicely.

My .02:
1. Clean the heck out of the area to be welded. DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF BRAKE CLEANER! Starting fluid is okay, just let it evaporate.
2. Heat it up to around 400 or so degrees. If its only a 1/2" in diameter, it won't need much.
3. Weld.
4. Post-heat by keeping the torch on it for a few moments (less than 10 seconds) and slowly draw the torch back
5. Bury it in play sand for a few hours.
6. Chip off slag and grind/finish, etc.

I used this technique to fix a 50+ year old rake for my parents. I use a little bit more of an involved process for welding my axle tubes to my cast differential housing and knuckles, but the basics are there.

A sign of improper pre/post heating is hearing a very light tinkling/pinging noise from the HAZ (heat affected zone) after welding. That's the sound of microscopic cracks forming because the metal is cooling too quickly.

 

[pdqdl]

400° is generally the recommended pre-heat temperature for many welding applications. You can go to a welding shop and get temperature sticks that will melt at a the desired temp.

Write on the metal, begin heating. It melts...start welding. Easy!

Mapp will hit 400° with no problem. Propane is good, too.

I would weld with a high nickel rod made for cast iron before I would try flux core. If it is really important to look good and be strong, buy some MG-600 rod. VERY expensive, but fabulously strong and easy to weld with, it will join almost any ferrous metal. About $5.00 per stick!

 

[oscar4883]

My .02 is that when you are using any rod with a high nickel content it is important to hammer the welds after you lay them down. During the post heat process lightly hammer the welded area to stretch the weld, so to speak. I have no idea if there is any science behind this at all but every old timer I knew did this when welding cast or using nickel rod on hard plate. I have welded some fairly violent equipment in the mining industry using the techniques above, including hammer welding, and had good results.

 

[Zippymbr]

My .02 is that when you are using any rod with a high nickel content it is important to hammer the welds after you lay them down. During the post heat process lightly hammer the welded area to stretch the weld, so to speak. I have no idea if there is any science behind this at all but every old timer I knew did this when welding cast or using nickel rod on hard plate. I have welded some fairly violent equipment in the mining industry using the techniques above, including hammer welding, and had good results.

This makes no sense to me, hammering the weld will not help penetration but will remove the slag allowing you to see the weld. I would love to see a write up explaining the reason for this. I weld often but not for a living and was taught by a master with 30 years of pro welding for FORD. I never heard of this Hammer tech.

 

[GPETER]

Thanks for the help! Sorry to derail your thread.

Back to the 066 rebuild!