Yea they might run a bit rich, I tune my saws to be a bit rich anyway (In the saw world about 100-150RPM off spec)..but they run well enough to work with. I ran mine all last weekend and this weekend with 100LL I bought for my Dirt Bike in saws I tuned for regular gas. Been doing this for at least the last 10 years switching back and forth after deciding to not keep two mixes of 2 stroke fuel.
I think the definition of "acceptable" is where we are apart..most more technical types are looking for optimal performance, I'm looking to get a days work done. If the guy puts 100LL in his saw, it will run just fine. If he wants to optimise the performace of course he will have to "tweak" just as you would with any fundemental change in fuel mixes or octane changes....even temperature & humidity changes will require a little tweak at times. In the old days, I would keep a set of jets for different temperature and weather conditions for my smaller bore race bikes (125's)...would gamble in the morning and hope I didn't stick it in the finals late after noon.. when running multiple classes and didn't have time between heats to rejet.
Every saw I had at our last couple of GTG's have run on both 100LL and standard gas depending on whats happening in my Motorcycle life. I run my old KTM420 MC80's on 100LL & 32:1 synthetics of various brands as it runs smoother and cooler with the 100LL have since 1980. (Especially in low speed situations like woods riding in low gears..not a lot of cooling going on with low speed riding) I haven't seen a reason to go back to separate mixes yet... Performance at the GTG's and in the woods might. Just haven't so far. Maybe we will test the "optimal" mix with timed runs in out "Poulan" race we will hold at the next GTG along with testing 3/8 vs the smaller low pro chains. One thing I can say for certain, when I was milling, the saws ran cooler with the 100LL with no loss in time. So I ran it exclusively when I milled.
This brings up the main issue for me when tuning my stuff...duration of work cycle. During a day in the woods, it might start at 50 degrees and end at 85 here in CNY so you would think theoretically you should lean out the saw as the day goes on, right? Also the "work cycle" might be 15-20 seconds per cut in one situation..then 2-3minutes when ripping fence post in another. I want to tune my stuff at the point of where the temperature is at the high side of the typical work cycle so I'm tuning to the worst condition on initial tweaking. AND different mixtures can effect where that steady state high point is. After fiddling with this for years..I ultimately just do plug checks on the first couple of jobs when I setup & learn my saws and look to tune for the lowest common denominator and this ends up being tuned a bit rich. My stuff runs. Once in a while I have to tune a bit to more extreem situations...like when I was cutting in 0 degee winter days...or last week in humid 88 degree days. I just report what I see real time.