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My hearing must be going because it sure sounds like it stops 4-stroking between 11.5 and 12. I'll see if I can get another video tomorrow.

No surprice there, as those rpm means it is set too rich. It should of course four-stroke a little at full throttle out of wood, but it should clean up in the wood .
 
It should of course four-stroke a little at full throttle out of wood, but it should clean up in the wood .
I think that's what it's doing where I have it at 11,500. Also, in the owner's manual under the carb adjustment section it says "check by means of a revolution counter that the high idle speed does not exceed 11,500 r/min".

Now, I'm not doubting you or Bob as both of you have infinitely more knowledge about this than I do, but I'm a bit uncomfortable taking it any higher with the way it sounds to me. Like I said, I'll see if I can get another video tomorrow for you guys to listen to.
 
My weekly update... ;)

On the advice of Bob, I tuned her to 11,500 (he suggested 12-12.5) out of cut. Any more than that and she stops burbling. Seems a lot better now in the cut.

I also think I'm having a clutch problem. If I lean on the saw just slightly the chain stalls leading me to think the clutch is probably slipping. Would replacing the drum help or do I need to find a course-thread clutch too?

The OM also say 11,500 - but it also say it is for high idle, not for WOT. Odd indeed! :dizzy:

The 1996 for the 630 Super II say 13k max - to put it in perspective....

If Bob is Spike60, I would stick to what he said! :msp_wink:

Your clutch issue is hard to say much about from here, but it surely sounds like something is wore out.
 
The OM also say 11,500 - but it also say it is for high idle, not for WOT. Odd indeed! :dizzy:

The 1996 for the 630 Super II say 13k max - to put it in perspective....

If Bob is Spike60, I would stick to what he said! :msp_wink:
Yup, that Bob. He seems to know a lot about this family of saws. :msp_thumbup:

I guess tomorrow I'll crank her up to 12,500 and see what happens.

Your clutch issue is hard to say much about from here, but it surely sounds like something is wore out.
I hit the shoes and the inside of the drum with some fine emery cloth and a coarse scotchbrite to knock off the glaze so maybe that'll help. :dunno:
 
I guess tomorrow I'll crank her up to 12,500 and see what happens.
Spun her up to 12,500 and she sure seems better in the cut (no video today as everyone is coming and going). Not sure if she's 4-stroking out of the cut but she's pulling between 8800-9400 in the cut based on the tach.

I hit the shoes and the inside of the drum with some fine emery cloth and a coarse scotchbrite to knock off the glaze so maybe that'll help. :dunno:
Didn't seem to help. Now the quest for a decent used coarse-thread clutch begins...
 
Now the quest for a decent used coarse-thread clutch begins...
Found one at Chainsawr. I also got a new drum/rim sprocket. It comes with a plastic dust shield and a metal washer. Does the washer go between the rim and dust shield?
 
Spun her up to 12,500 and she sure seems better in the cut (no video today as everyone is coming and going). Not sure if she's 4-stroking out of the cut but she's pulling between 8800-9400 in the cut based on the tach.
....

Make sure it is fourstroking a little at WOT out of wood! If it isn't, it is too lean on the H side, and you risk scoring it. :msp_scared:
 
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One more thing;
Remember that the numbers we have discussed are the maximum numbers - always start some hundred rpm lower, and work gradually up until it stops fourstroking out of wood. Then back off just a little, until it starts fourstroking again.
Not all saws run the best at maximum rpm, it varies between different saws of the same model.

:msp_wink:
 
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One more thing;
Remember that the numbers we have discussed are the maximum numbers - always start some hundred rpm lower, and work gradually up until it stops fourstroking out of wood. Then back off just a little, until it starts foustroking again.
Not all saws run the best at maximum rpm, it varies between different saws of the same model.

:msp_wink:
Here's an updated video from today. Not sure if you can tell whether it's 4-stroking or not because the audio isn't the best. Drastic improvement in cut times from the last one. The saw feels as strong as it was before the little mishap.

[video=youtube;rEd8ajBCq88]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEd8ajBCq88[/video]
 
I'm hoping to make it to Bob's GTG next month and plan on bringing this old gal with me. Perhaps he or someone more knowledgeable than me can take a look at it to make sure she's tuned properly. :bowdown:
 
I never heard any 4-stroking in the video. You never held it at WOT unloaded (or lifted cutting pressure in the cut at WOT). Running unloaded at WOT is when we'd hear the 4-stroking. The 'blip blip blip' action is useless for hearing the H side tune (but does help tell you if you have it right on the L side).

From what I heard, you're still too lean. Do some more cuts. When in about the middle of the cut, lift cutting pressure for a moment while KEEPING the trigger held at WOT. You should hear it 4-stroke ('honk') as soon as you lift cutting pressure, and 'clean up' as soon as you get 'er loaded down again.
 
I never heard any 4-stroking in the video. You never held it at WOT unloaded (or lifted cutting pressure in the cut at WOT).
Rookie camera operator... she didn't press RECORD soon enough. :msp_sneaky:

From what I heard, you're still too lean.
Too lean? :confused2: I'm really afraid to take her any higher. Like I said, hopefully I can get to the GTG where someone will take mercy on my soul.

You should hear it 4-stroke ('honk') as soon as you lift cutting pressure, and 'clean up' as soon as you get 'er loaded down again.
I'm pretty sure it was doing that in my test cuts before the video but then again my hearing apparently isn't what it used to be.
 
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From what I heard, you're still too lean.

Too lean? :confused2: I'm really afraid to take her any higher. Like I said, hopefully I can get to the GTG where someone will take mercy on my soul.

Yes. Too lean. I was suggesting that you should tune it a bit richer on the H side (turn the needle counterclockwise), which would have it run lower (not higher) at max unloaded RPM.
 
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