2100/5200 in a Stihl shop, hmmmmm

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Tommy how man dayamm times have I told you, Keep your DAM HANDS OFF THAT THING!!!!! You grip it any dayamm harder its gona fall off!!!

It a dangerous weapon, it can't see out one eye, I gotta protect the public at all times,:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Sharp eye. Yes a lady came in one day and sat her chainsaw on that stool and drug the chain across it and ripped it. Luckily she was a looker so I didn't say anything other than ooopppps.

Yeah we keep the suggestion box covered. We don't want any suggestions getting out of there. They can put all they want in but thats as far as they ever go,:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

Tommoe ole boy,

Brilliant
! Your suggestion box is for the customers to receive suggestions, not for submitting suggestions.

That's why you're the King, the King of Retail,

Joat
 
If you want to run a modern sprocket tip bar on any of those c, xp, 2000, 2100 saws then you are prett much limited to stihl large mount bars with an adapter. They do work well though. Original roller or sprocket tip bars in the large homelite mount are very rare anymore.

Now this is something good to know about. So you just cut a spacer plate with the 12.5mm width and drill holes for the bar studs or is there more too it? Do the oiler holes line up or is some drilling required on the bar as well?

Dan
 
I noticed that Hoss has a lot more 'love muscle' than Mr Hall, so to speak...:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

Yeah he's a right big ole boy but he's young. Hell when I was his age I was 6'4
295 lbs of pure beast. Now that I'm old I'm 185 lbs of pure luv muscle,:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Now this is something good to know about. So you just cut a spacer plate with the 12.5mm width and drill holes for the bar studs or is there more too it? Do the oiler holes line up or is some drilling required on the bar as well?

Dan

Correct on part one and yes you need to change the location of the oiler hole a bit. Also the bar adjuster hole in the stihl bar needs to be lowered about 1/4 inch. The main thing is that the tail of the bar is big enough so that the body of the saw will not put a crimp on the chain once it is mounted.
 
Correct on part one and yes you need to change the location of the oiler hole a bit. Also the bar adjuster hole in the stihl bar needs to be lowered about 1/4 inch. The main thing is that the tail of the bar is big enough so that the body of the saw will not put a crimp on the chain once it is mounted.

That's great to know. sound slike not too big of a deal. May have to try it on one of the old C-91 project saws. It'd be nice to use a roller tip bar. Thanks for the info!

Dan
 
Yeah he's a right big ole boy but he's young. Hell when I was his age I was 6'4
295 lbs of pure beast. Now that I'm old I'm 185 lbs of pure luv muscle,:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

Mr. Hall I do believe you are a midget. At least next to Hoss.
 
When I get poked by a needle they just put a cotton ball and a band aid on it. I am sure she will heal right up. :hmm3grin2orange:


LOLOL. Ok now I gotta test ya. Read these numbers very close.

1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Now read them close and post back when you have and tell me you have read each number..
 

Latest posts

Back
Top