261 vs 291 (HP or CC)

[Brian72]

Nope, just been working and trying to read the great responses in the spare moments.

Ok, looks like it is certainly the 261 with a little debate about a 16" vs 18" bar but a 20" is 100% out. I will not be cutting anything very big at all. It is 55 acres and I want to clean up about 15 of it for an orchard, garden, cabin spot and the rest is going into a forestry program. The reason I bought this is because it hugely boarders and joins another 80 acres owned by my father.

I will be clearing up messes and various crop tree releases but I do not need a whopping saw. I am choosing the 261 because of better quality and lighter weight, not because I have a need for more HP. I will be cutting a lot of firewood from the waste to use/give away rather than let it rot.

The bulk of question was just to learn about how HP and displacement relate in these saws.

Thanks for all the great and generous responses!

I'm no expert but in general, the pro saws give you better performance, less weight and better anti-vibe. If you'll be doing much limbing, you may really like a longer bar. Less bending over.

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[Cody]

Nope, just been working and trying to read the great responses in the spare moments.

Ok, looks like it is certainly the 261 with a little debate about a 16" vs 18" bar but a 20" is 100% out. I will not be cutting anything very big at all. It is 55 acres and I want to clean up about 15 of it for an orchard, garden, cabin spot and the rest is going into a forestry program. The reason I bought this is because it hugely boarders and joins another 80 acres owned by my father.

I will be clearing up messes and various crop tree releases but I do not need a whopping saw. I am choosing the 261 because of better quality and lighter weight, not because I have a need for more HP. I will be cutting a lot of firewood from the waste to use/give away rather than let it rot.

The bulk of question was just to learn about how HP and displacement relate in these saws.

Thanks for all the great and generous responses!

Sounds like an 18" bar with .325 chain would suit you well.

 

[holeycow]

Dolmar 421. 16” bar. Lopro.

Sweet, sweet saw. Cheap.

Just a thought.

Leaves room for a bigger saw... cause you can’t only have one.

Haha.

 

[holeycow]

If you’ll be limbing, get the 325 on the 50cc saw.

Smooooth.

 

[Chris-PA]

Also another thing. I don't understand why people feel the need to stuff the longest possible bar they can find on a given saw. Both these saws are made to run with 16" bars and will also take an 18" without too problem. But if you really really need to run a 20" bar, get a 60cc class saw: these days there are plenty of excellent saws in that class from all major manufacturers.

LOL - I run a 20" bar on a 46cc saw, cutting hardwood for firewood. It's no pro saw either. Kinda nice to have a 20" bar on a powerhead just over 10lbs.

 

[holeycow]

[QUOTE="Conquistador3, post: 6416167,

Also another thing. I don't understand why people feel the need to stuff the longest possible bar they can find on a given saw.[/QUOTE]

Neither do I.

To each his own...

 

[Brian72]

[QUOTE="Conquistador3, post: 6416167,

Also another thing. I don't understand why people feel the need to stuff the longest possible bar they can find on a given saw.

Neither do I.

To each his own...[/QUOTE]
For me personally, it's just more versatile and less weight. I don't really swap bars much like others may. 20" tackles 80% of what I do and I like the extra reach for limbing. I wouldn't run this combo if I was logging for a living but it serves me well for what I do.

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[mountainlake]

You can bet in real life the 261 will blow away the 291, Stihl over rates the HP on their cheap home owner saws by a lot. Steve

 

[DaffyDuck77]

How much latitude do these dealers have on pricing? They all seem to just use the online DSRP. Is this a case of the price is the price Walmart style or is this more like buying a car and there is an expectation of a subtle deals when you start buying chains, bars, oil, fuel, chaps, and cases with the saw?

 

[Armbru84]

I had a 291 and cut a ton of wood with it...for its price point I was very happy with the saw. Have ran a lot of different saws 261 included. I would have no issue recommending a 291 to someone.


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[saxman]

Stihl dealers don’t have much wiggle room on price. They can throw extras in at times if they want to sweeten the deal; extra chain, oil, case etc


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[Conquistador3]

How much latitude do these dealers have on pricing? They all seem to just use the online DSRP. Is this a case of the price is the price Walmart style or is this more like buying a car and there is an expectation of a subtle deals when you start buying chains, bars, oil, fuel, chaps, and cases with the saw?

It really really depends on a myriad of factors. Periodically Stihl seems to give some dealers (usually those shifting the most metal) a measure of latitude on professional grade equipment, but this seems to be temporary and to only apply on some products.
Homeowner/farm equipment usually sells at full retail price but at least here Stihl runs two promotional campaigns a year (one in the Spring and the other during Fall) on parts of the line.

 

[holeycow]

They do that here too. Pretty skimpy this year.

 

[TrevorH]

At my dealership, we have very little leeway, but occasionally we can sell high dollar pro stuff out cheaper when we have over $100 markups. But that is only for the "good ole boys" who have been in my doors semi-daily for 10 years. When it comes to parts, and stihl merchandise without an engine (excluding electric and kombi attachments), we have far greater leeway. Such as I may sell a 261 drum and rim sprocket for 39, while the next dealer close to me is at 60ish for the exact same part. Trimmer line and other items are the same way.