266 power vs clutch

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Firewood Bandit

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Hey guys,

I picked up this 266 last week. I always wanted one but now I have some questions. I hear the clutches on the 266 where not the best. Anyone know if the clutches handle increases in power?
Are the moutnts on these old huskys the same as new large husky? I think I will need an adapter as all my bars are form stihl 440 & 660 saws.

20210314_181107.jpg
20210314_181117.jpg
 
Increase in power? You always wanted one- but only as the base for a top end swap to make it 268 or 272?

I think 262 was the mount cutoff point between small Husqvarna and Large. 266 should be D009, same as large mount modern saws, but yes you will need some form of adapter to run your Stihl bars on it.
 
Increase in power? You always wanted one- but only as the base for a top end swap to make it 268 or 272?

I think 262 was the mount cutoff point between small Husqvarna and Large. 266 should be D009, same as large mount modern saws, but yes you will need some form of adapter to run your Stihl bars on it.

Leave her stock one of the best running and cutting saws ever made.
Kash

Nothing wrong with a 266 clutch, other than early coarse thread ones are hard to get.
I have built plenty 272's based on early chassis with never an issue. Fine thread cranks you can go to the latest clutch no issue.
Thanks that's really useful info. This 266 is a 1983. I'm thinking of keeping the original top end and having Mr. Walker port it maybe open up the muffler.
 
Run that sucker for a while before you go butchering it. The 266 was about the best saw in it's class. I don't know how much you think you'll gain messing with it, but the risks outweigh the benefits IMO. Get a 272 or something more available if you want to start "improving" something. That 266 is a classic in nice shape!
 
Run that sucker for a while before you go butchering it. The 266 was about the best saw in it's class. I don't know how much you think you'll gain messing with it, but the risks outweigh the benefits IMO. Get a 272 or something more available if you want to start "improving" something. That 266 is a classic in nice shape!
I knew the 266 had a strong following to this day. It's been on my shopping list for many years. I definitely realize I'm lucky to have found this example in such good condition. I have seen first had what Donny can do with a 266 and its impressive. That said, I definitely take your point that it is an excellent saw to begin with and given its age and condition you would be reluctant to modify it performance gains.
 
The clutch is as has already been stated.....coarse thread is hard to come by but certainly up to the task.

But on a cautionary note about something totally different....I would lose that muffler and replace with a later model/type. I call those the "Fish Gill" mufflers as the exhaust ports are just pressed louvers in the muffler body...when unbolted and removed they easily break in half to reveal a large internal spark screen sandwiched between two baffle plates with holes in them. At first glance it looks to be very open and a good design with a lot of screen area. I built a 266 for a local logger a couple years ago out of 2-3 broken saws that he had. The only muffler he had that wasn't dented and battered to death was was of these so it was what I used. New piston, seals, orings carb kit and fuel line/filter...new late model clutch cover/brake/rim drive etc. Cost him about $450.00 but ran like new...he was happy....for a while. A couple weeks later it came back.....said it was seized. So I was depressed and tore right into it........piston was trashed from internal metal flying about. The upshot is that the side of the muffler baffle towards the piston had metal fatigued and come apart and the bits got sucked back into the engine. Ed said the saw was just sitting on the ground idling and warming up when it just stopped. I had cautioned him about the muffler being pretty thin and would not last long in the service he was putting it into but never dreamed it would actually destroy the saw.
 
I can second not liking those mufflers, and you need to check the later ones over very well too. I have a few was on the shelf that ate pieces of the baffle in those too. I have been known to gut them completely.

Being an 83, there is room for improvement in that saw. The early cylinder has a very small intake and very high exhaust. It will also have the smaller hs163 carb. So far I have found 3 different cylinders amongst my saws, but I just acquired some later ones(1992 and 1995,) so I will check timing numbers on those as well.
A 266 certainly isn't uncommon in my area, I currently have 11 on the shelf..
My cousin in Comox has a Walkerized 266xp and speaks very highly of it, and Walker's.
 
Picked up one about a month ago, 266xp fine thread crank rim sprocket, decided to replace the seals and fuel line before I let it go, has the more modern muffler, and will go back out to do another number of years of service, solid saws with a good history, just in an era where saws were built to last- I do like the 372xp, which I rebuilt with a Walkers ported cylinder ( I had on hand), on it and that is my keeper, another saw with quality.
 
It's your saw so you can do what you want, but keep in mind those mufflers are NLA and the 266 is kinda a classic platform. If I were going to modify something, it would be a 268/272, or a 61 that got its parts swapped up.

Nothing wrong with the clutches. Like others said, coarse thread versus fine thread is the main issue.
 
The clutch is as has already been stated.....coarse thread is hard to come by but certainly up to the task.

But on a cautionary note about something totally different....I would lose that muffler and replace with a later model/type. I call those the "Fish Gill" mufflers as the exhaust ports are just pressed louvers in the muffler body...when unbolted and removed they easily break in half to reveal a large internal spark screen sandwiched between two baffle plates with holes in them. At first glance it looks to be very open and a good design with a lot of screen area. I built a 266 for a local logger a couple years ago out of 2-3 broken saws that he had. The only muffler he had that wasn't dented and battered to death was was of these so it was what I used. New piston, seals, orings carb kit and fuel line/filter...new late model clutch cover/brake/rim drive etc. Cost him about $450.00 but ran like new...he was happy....for a while. A couple weeks later it came back.....said it was seized. So I was depressed and tore right into it........piston was trashed from internal metal flying about. The upshot is that the side of the muffler baffle towards the piston had metal fatigued and come apart and the bits got sucked back into the engine. Ed said the saw was just sitting on the ground idling and warming up when it just stopped. I had cautioned him about the muffler being pretty thin and would not last long in the service he was putting it into but never dreamed it would actually destroy the saw.
Wow thanks for sharing that really good to know.
 
I can second not liking those mufflers, and you need to check the later ones over very well too. I have a few was on the shelf that ate pieces of the baffle in those too. I have been known to gut them completely.

Being an 83, there is room for improvement in that saw. The early cylinder has a very small intake and very high exhaust. It will also have the smaller hs163 carb. So far I have found 3 different cylinders amongst my saws, but I just acquired some later ones(1992 and 1995,) so I will check timing numbers on those as well.
A 266 certainly isn't uncommon in my area, I currently have 11 on the shelf..
My cousin in Comox has a Walkerized 266xp and speaks very highly of it, and Walker's.
Wow I think 266 were probably common here in Vancouver island in there day but I very rarely see any for sale. I have seen a 266 that Donny worked on and its temping especially because I pass Walkers every day ;)
 
Wow I think 266 were probably common here in Vancouver island in there day but I very rarely see any for sale. I have seen a 266 that Donny worked on and its temping especially because I pass Walkers every day ;)
Going to put mine on CL next couple of days, want to give it a good workout tomorrow, too many saws, got to thin the herd.
 
Here's a couple pictures I have still on my phone from the last time I compared cylinders:
924829607d514924630a8d1561e83096.jpg

38fe87eb4fc6e9debc67eda5d0620060.jpg

The early 50zn11 cylinder has the smaller intake and small, high exhaust.
The later cylinder in the picture is circa 86, 50zn13.
There is one in between those two that has the small intake and later exhaust port as well. I will check into the later saws I have here soon.
 
Hey guys,

I picked up this 266 last week. I always wanted one but now I have some questions. I hear the clutches on the 266 where not the best. Anyone know if the clutches handle increases in power?
Are the moutnts on these old huskys the same as new large husky? I think I will need an adapter as all my bars are form stihl 440 & 660 saws.

View attachment 895494
View attachment 895493
Nice saw
I have early coarse thread saws
Up through the fine thread 266s
Been running them since the 80s
I've never had a clutch failure in any of my 12-15 I forget
266/268/272s
Several are ported
And all my saws run 24"
I even tried a fine thread aftermarket clutch in a zoo city 272xp
And after 5 gallons of mix no issue's.
The only weak point to the 266 is you'll want more.
Performance wise my 266/268/272 ported saws by two different porter's
Are exceptional and run damn close to each other.
I'd never replace a 266 cylinder for a 268/272
Unless you want the decomp on a 272 for some reason.
 

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