272xp, is it worth it?

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Mahle hone the cylinders so why shouldn't we, for a new piston/ring???

Because- generally, it is much easier with a hone to go too far and cut through the cylinder coating, rendering it useless.
If removing transfer from the piston melting and galling onto the cylinder wall, there is no fear of creating some kind of elliptical bore through hand sanding- as you are merely removing the soft transferred extra coating back to the original cylinder lining. With a hone it is relatively easy to cut the transfer off and the lining, especially around port openings.
CAREFUL and proper use of a ball hone might be considered the safest option- but best to have some practice on a scrap cylinder before you start.

 

[zzr1200]

Because- generally, it is much easier with a hone to go too far and cut through the cylinder coating, rendering it useless.
If removing transfer from the piston melting and galling onto the cylinder wall, there is no fear of creating some kind of elliptical bore through hand sanding- as you are merely removing the soft transferred extra coating back to the original cylinder lining. With a hone it is relatively easy to cut the transfer off and the lining, especially around port openings.
CAREFUL and proper use of a ball hone might be considered the safest option- but best to have some practice on a scrap cylinder before you start.

I agree to a certain degree if you hone the cylinder for long time you could possibly break through the plated surface and the design of hone used makes a difference, but to just say DON'T hone the cylinder is a statement that is incorrect, being as the manufacturers hone the cylinders during manufacture.

Using a ball hone as apposed to a 3 legged stone hone is the way to go, but also you haven't stated that a ball hone should be rotated in both directions to clean up both vertical edges of the transfer ports......

Also glaze busting is totally different from removing piston material from cylinder walls, plus why do most saw porters use hones to after porting cylinders either new or used???

I wouldn't hone a new cylinder kit unless the cylinder has been ported, but honing is the very very last stage of porting to clean up any slight possible roughness left

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

I’ve used ball hones many times with great results. Never went through the plating. I hone in a solvent tank with solvent washing the cylinder while I’m running the hone. Works like a charm.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I agree to a certain degree if you hone the cylinder for long time you could possibly break through the plated surface and the design of hone used makes a difference, but to just say DON'T hone the cylinder is a statement that is incorrect, being as the manufacturers hone the cylinders during manufacture.

Using a ball hone as apposed to a 3 legged stone hone is the way to go, but also you haven't stated that a ball hone should be rotated in both directions to clean up both vertical edges of the transfer ports......

Also glaze busting is totally different from removing piston material from cylinder walls, plus why do most saw porters use hones to after porting cylinders either new or used???

I wouldn't hone a new cylinder kit unless the cylinder has been ported, but honing is the very very last stage of porting to clean up any slight possible roughness left

My reply was aimed at the context of this thread and the OP's predicament, certainly not as controlled as a factory cylinder finishing hone, nor any form of post porting none- the original context was Joe Bloggs removing possible transfer of a piston to the internals of a probably still viable OEM stock cylinder to get a stock saw running again- this is the basis most anyone else was using when suggesting to not hone.
Not trying to start some kind of debate about the best way to skin a cat- just pointing out for the average Joe with little to no cylinder cleaning experience, zero port cutting experience, someone mentions hone and cylinder in the same sentence, a 3 jaw is the only image to fill the imagination- damage can be done.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Do not use ball hone for transfer removal.

I call it easy as 1 2 3. Remove transfer step 1 with flapper. Emery clothe to make sure by hand 2 (can scuff cylinder glaze and stop here).
But I like to use a ball hone for a quick fresh crosshatch myself 3.

Only folks that should not own anything go through the plating had high speed for long times not knowing what the f they are doing.

Pics are after 1 2 and could use as is and next pics after 3

 

[grizz55chev]

I agree to a certain degree if you hone the cylinder for long time you could possibly break through the plated surface and the design of hone used makes a difference, but to just say DON'T hone the cylinder is a statement that is incorrect, being as the manufacturers hone the cylinders during manufacture.

Using a ball hone as apposed to a 3 legged stone hone is the way to go, but also you haven't stated that a ball hone should be rotated in both directions to clean up both vertical edges of the transfer ports......

Also glaze busting is totally different from removing piston material from cylinder walls, plus why do most saw porters use hones to after porting cylinders either new or used???

I wouldn't hone a new cylinder kit unless the cylinder has been ported, but honing is the very very last stage of porting to clean up any slight possible roughness left

There have been many threads posted about the proper way to remove transfer from a nikasil cylinder, NONE of the pros would risk a rare OEM cylinder using a hone. There are peaks and valleys in the hardened nikasil coating that can be damaged from the action of the hone. It's a different animal than a cast iron cylinder, so i've been told.

 

[TRTermite]

I don't have a Foredom Like RRandy (YET) but get by using a welding rod (1/8" 7018 for me) knock the flux off hammer/pein an inch on one end flat then use the dremel with cut off disc and cut a slit so I have made a split mandrel to slip crocus cloth in to make a "COMPACT" flapper wheel that fits in my variable speed Dremel (Corded). I use 120 grit to start then 180 then 360 grit to clean and red scotch brite in the split mandrel to finish . Cylinder gets a cleaning when I change grits. then hot soapy water Ultrasonic cleaner with Simply Green then another soapy rinse and rinse and dry. The Simply Green has removed a 'splotch' that I was concerned to be the plating worn through but was an aluminum smear. Ya All can do as you all wish but I like the compact split mandrel concept to keep the abrasive pinpointed where the transfer is at not the bare - clean plating or exposed transfers/ports .. As for Manufactures use they are in a new clean cylinder that has never been used. Not a cylinder that is considered by a factory tech as trashed. I wrote this post for the OP to understand more. Just 'cuz I say so doesn't mean it is so just as what others argue that there is only one way (their way) Beginners need something to read to get some guidance/explanation as to what they are trying to achieve.

 

[TRTermite]

There have been many threads posted about the proper way to remove transfer from a nikasil cylinder, NONE of the pros would risk a rare OEM cylinder using a hone. There are peaks and velleys in the hardened nikasil coating that can be damaged from the action of the hone. It's a different animal than a cast iron cylinder, so i've been told.

After 12 yrs here on AS I can bet you have read most of them.

 

[grizz55chev]

After 12 yrs here on AS I can bet you have read most of them.

It's why I joined, and I've built dozens and dozens of saws for me and my close friends with the info I learned here. There were a lot more build threads when I first joined, I miss those a lot!

 

[biggerstaff94]

Is there any particular reason for reusing the oem cylinder? A made in Italy Meteor kit is reasonably priced.

 

[grizz55chev]

Is there any particular reason for reusing the oem cylinder? A made in Italy Meteor kit is reasonably priced.

The fit and finish as well as the port timing, the clones rarely match up to the OEM! Edit: the Meteor kit will run $125 ? and up for the complete kit, the Meteor piston and Caber ring will run $40 , saving the cylinder cuts the cost considerably.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Is there any particular reason for reusing the oem cylinder? A made in Italy Meteor kit is reasonably priced.

If you can save the OEM, do so.
If you cannot- the the Meteor kit is to be considered a very close second to OEM quality wise.

 

[biggerstaff94]

The fit and finish as well as the port timing, the clones rarely match up to the OEM! Edit: the Meteor kit will run $125 ? and up for the complete kit, the Meteor piston and Caber ring will run $40 , saving the cylinder cuts the cost considerably.

It does, but if i i eff up the oem cylinder trying to clean it up then ill be buying the cylinder anyway. Also it could have gouged the cylinder, i honestly dont know how bad it is.

Im watching a nice 61 on ebay right now, if it goes cheap ill probably pick it up and skip the 272.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

It does, but if i i eff up the oem cylinder trying to clean it up then ill be buying the cylinder anyway. Also it could have gouged the cylinder, i honestly dont know how bad it is.

Im watching a nice 61 on ebay right now, if it goes cheap ill probably pick it up and skip the 272.

The very best stock Husqvarna 61 is not going to hold any kind of candle to a good 272.

 

[biggerstaff94]

The very best stock Husqvarna 61 is not going to hold any kind of candle to a good 272.

I have no doubts about that. I just rechecked, its a 51 anyway. Its been a long day lol.

 

[Dennbb]

I agree to a certain degree if you hone the cylinder for long time you could possibly break through the plated surface and the design of hone used makes a difference, but to just say DON'T hone the cylinder is a statement that is incorrect, being as the manufacturers hone the cylinders during manufacture.

Using a ball hone as apposed to a 3 legged stone hone is the way to go, but also you haven't stated that a ball hone should be rotated in both directions to clean up both vertical edges of the transfer ports......

Also glaze busting is totally different from removing piston material from cylinder walls, plus why do most saw porters use hones to after porting cylinders either new or used???

I wouldn't hone a new cylinder kit unless the cylinder has been ported, but honing is the very very last stage of porting to clean up any slight possible roughness left

Manufacturers plate the cylinders after honing them.

 

[TRTermite]

Is there any particular reason for reusing the oem cylinder? A made in Italy Meteor kit is reasonably priced.

Oem is usually considered best but a lot of the time new ones are NLA (no longer available) Meteor pistons are widely accepted by the porters if OEM (Original Equipment) isn't affordable. The Cylinders can get very sketchy due to quality control issues and who gives a schizz as long as they get your money.
Re using the oem may cost a bit more but some of the saws here on AS are 20/30/50 years old. To me there is a bit of satisfaction cleaning up the OEM stuff. But if ya have the money and mind set to experiment....... that is what this site (and others) is/are all about. If you dig through the archives of this site there is a WEALTH of INFORMATION to be gleaned. Not as easy to search/sift through as it used to be. Call It PROGRESS if you wish. I must be gettin' to be an OLD FART.

 

[zzr1200]

Manufacturers plate the cylinders after honing them.

So manufacturers hone the cylinder to crosshatch the cylinder surface so the piston rings bed in easily and then plate the cylinder to cover the crosshatching.... ........Do they(?), think about it???

 

[MRCLYDE]

correct me if I'm wrong but the bar adapter is an Idea but most chains off the the stihl to husky are one driver shorter when you try putting it on your husky, best to have 2 chains

The 20" and 24" chains have the same DL count for both saws. 72 and 84

 

[TRTermite]

The 20" and 24" chains have the same DL count for both saws. 72 and 84

I think the 28" bars are where the DLs vary. (Oregon vs. Tsmara)