3/8 chain gauge .050 .058 .063 What do you run and why?

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What gauge is your 3/8 chain.


  • Total voters
    121
.050, cause everyone else is doin' it. Thats what is most available here, and what the first couple of saws I had came with. Just stuck with it.
 
In 3/8" the majority of mine are .050, though I also have some saws that run .058 and .063. In .404 I have both .058 and .063. I actually have the remnants of a roll of .325 in .063.
 
I run .050 because it's more standard. I have observed a higher tendency of chain throwing and the groove packs up more quickly (and more tightly) than .063. In hind-sight, I'd probably run .0050 on everything under 20" and .063 on everything longer. The reasons being chain throwing propensity, and susceptibility of driver damage. The drivers seem to be more easily damaged than .063 are. My 36" chains (and Stihl Bar) are .063 though. To each their own.
 
I run .050 because it's more standard. I have observed a higher tendency of chain throwing and the groove packs up more quickly (and more tightly) than .063. In hind-sight, I'd probably run .0050 on everything under 20" and .063 on everything longer. The reasons being chain throwing propensity, and susceptibility of driver damage. The drivers seem to be more easily damaged than .063 are. My 36" chains (and Stihl Bar) are .063 though. To each their own.

I am only asking due to my own curiosity, but have you ever damaged an .050 driver ?
How does a thicker driver stop the chain from being thrown ? I understand about breaking a chain, but if its tensioned correctly, is .050 more prone to being thrown than .063 ?
 
Sorry they're two semi-unrelated issues. The drivers are more easily damaged on my 60+cc saws. They just don't seem to stand up as well to the power. My 9010 and 372xp have both screwed up more than a few drivers and no I don't abuse or horse my saws around. They're thrown more easily (IMHO) due to having less of an anchor in the channel (like a lighter keel on a sailboat) being more sensitive to being raked sideways into the cut (when limbing). More operator error than anything, but I think .063 holds up better to this.
 
All of my 3/8 is .050 all of my saws came with it. The .050 does seem to clog faster than .063 IMO. I run 404x.063 on my long bars/ large saws .404 is overkill on any 80cc and under saw, way heavier than 3/8 chain. I do however have one weird loop of .404x.050 166 driver long. lol
 
I'm running most all .50 but do have an odd ball .58 24 and my 36 came in .63 but i don't go through enough to justify changing everything over to one or the other.

If i were to switch to a standard gauge it would be .58 cause i can get evrything from a small mount 16 up to a large mount 36 all in that gauge so i would be able to just buy one reel and make all the loops i want.
 
.050 is by far the more common gauge on the shelves in my citified area.
You do occasionally see some .063, 325 at times.
But the last time I noticed any of that in a "big box store", it was on the clearance rack
IF I had any bars to fit .063, I might have grabbed some of the chain, at $5.00 a loop.
 
I run all three of those gauges in 3/8 chain. .050 because that's common on mid size stihls. .063 on long Stihl bars, and .058 because I came into a dozen like new chains in that gauge. I couldn't find a Stihl bar mount that ran a .058 gauge chain so I "made" one. 18" bar.
 
Great feedback.

I personally see zero reason or evidence that the gauge would effect chain derailment IMHO. Now oil carrying, dust clearing makes sense, as does sprocket wear. If the driver is wider, the pressure will be spread over a larger area, resulting in less sprocket and driver wear.

Yes, and the width of the chain and kerf vary according to the chain. Some manufacturers use the same chassis for all, some use the same for 50 and 58, and some use the same for 58 and 63
 
Stihl Australia makes sure all saws over about 40cc are sold with 063 gauge chain as a standard stock setup. lt took me a while to realise why they do this and l brought a lot of 050 bars out of the US in sizes from 16"-36" with the idea that should l want to mill with any of my bars l could run picco/lopro to lessen the load and make milling fast and pleasureable:). Big mistake!! I also wanted to simplify things as to buy chain in bulk and run the same chain on many saws. I would imagine 95% of saw users worldwide can use any gauge without problems or noticing any difference, however in Aussie land our wood is HARD and a lot of heat is generated cutting our timber even with the sharpest of chains. I find less heat build up/smoking from 063, it also carries the oil much better keeping things cooler reducing the chance of cooking your rails. The wider drive tang is a major advantage in hardwood making sprockets last a lot longer. Also when you combine modified saws cutting at higher rpm in the cut this is when 050 tangs get smashed up alot. For me now, l buy everything over 14" in 063....it took me a while to realize why Still had this worked out 25 years ago.
 
Stihl Australia makes sure all saws over about 40cc are sold with 063 gauge chain as a standard stock setup. lt took me a while to realise why they do this and l brought a lot of 050 bars out of the US in sizes from 16"-36" with the idea that should l want to mill with any of my bars l could run picco/lopro to lessen the load and make milling fast and pleasureable:). Big mistake!! I also wanted to simplify things as to buy chain in bulk and run the same chain on many saws. I would imagine 95% of saw users worldwide can use any gauge without problems or noticing any difference, however in Aussie land our wood is HARD and a lot of heat is generated cutting our timber even with the sharpest of chains. I find less heat build up/smoking from 063, it also carries the oil much better keeping things cooler reducing the chance of cooking your rails. The wider drive tang is a major advantage in hardwood making sprockets last a lot longer. Also when you combine modified saws cutting at higher rpm in the cut this is when 050 tangs get smashed up alot. For me now, l buy everything over 14" in 063....it took me a while to realize why Still had this worked out 25 years ago.

So what you're saying is, this is an issue only in Australia? Because it sure looks like the vast majority of us run .050 without any issue. I'm curious, as I was told just before your post, that in Australia .063 was pretty much the only option. I'm simply not sure I buy it, sounds more like prioritization. However you experience provided valuable information.
 
On more than a few types of chains, the DL are all the same thickness under the tie straps and narrowed down at the tang so the overall width of the chain is the same no matter what the gauge.

My Jonsered saws came with .058 (.325 and 3/8), Stihl came with .050 (3/8), I have McCulloch sprocket nose bars in all three gauges in 3/8 and .058 and .063 in .404.

If you are going to standardize on professional type saws, find out what is more common in you area or just go ahead and invest up front in the breaker and spinner + a few rolls of chain.

I have a pretty good selection of different gauges, pitches, and cutter types (chipper, semi-chisel, chisel) on hand so I can make up most anything I have a need of.

Seems like .404/.050 was peculiar to Homelite.

Mark
 
Really puzzled about all the talk what gauge chain to use. We sold saws for 55 years and always replaced chains the same gauge of the bar. o50, 058,063 and older o74 etc. If you put a 050 chain on an 058 or 063 bar it would surely wobble and have lots of bar and chain trouble. And o58 an 063 chains would not fit into an 050 bar. When we took the dealership to sell Oregon chain (1951) I didn't think I would ever learn to keep the bars and chains matched. And there weren't many different numbers that time.
chainsawlady
 

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