Matt81, I'll raise you - 32" hard nose .404 chain 38cc:
Ron
Ron
32" MS250??
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Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Put one at each end maybe....
I got some narrow kerf chain and was quite shocked at how it chewed through wood. The cutters are so tiny and the tie straps are .030" in thicknees. Its just a shame our wood gives it such a hard time. lf l was neally anywhere else in the globe l'd run it for sure.
Cody
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You are correct on that, I emailed him asking about a 3/8 conversion on my 261 and he says this:
8 tooth .325 wont cut good at all. you need to switch out your .325 gear for one of our 3/8 hot rod kits for the MS261 it will cut twice as fast
Isn't an 8 tooth .325 about the same chain speed as a 7 tooth in 3/8? I had since found a .325 8 tooth Stihl sprocket to go on my 261 and love it, although it obviously loses a little when you're burying the bar, not rocket science here I just don't lean as hard.
To the topic on hand, I do like having the 16" bar on my MS170 just for that few extra inches of reach, makes trimming branches pretty slick reaching out with one hand. When cutting up firewood though, it gets the 12" bar cause it's lucky it can handle that much wood, even with a WT215 and MM.
Full Chisel
Slingin' Stihls and runnin' Huskies
I bet this guy also sells snake oil and herbal viagra on ebay. Find a pigeon, bump him on the head.
windthrown
361 Junkie
That guy is an idiot. He lives not too far from me. He has several business names, including TarzanZipLines and Piltz. I drove past his address once to see what the place was like, and its just a suburban house. He sells a lot of PS3 loops and climbing rope online out of his garage. He used to sell MS180 and MS250 'hot saws' with long bars on them which were 3/8 std bars that he shaved down to fit small mount saws. Problems were several, including the nose sprocket trashing low profile chain. Also the oilers in the 1123 saws will never keep a 32" bar and chain wet, even the so-called "HO" one. The oil pumps in those are tiny. Even a stock 440 does not have an oil pump big enough to keep a 32 inch bar wet. Never mind a 250 having enough torque to drive a 32 inch loop. Hell, my old collection of muff modded 250s had a hard time with an 18 inch Picco bar buried in Doug fir.
He has since switched to using Canon large mount low profile bars to solve the nose sprocket killing the chain problem. He shaves them down to fit small mount saws. That is basically all he does to 'modify' these saws. In the video above he is running new razor sharp PS full chisel picco loops on that saw, with a new 24 inch B&C with a new chain and a new bar. Even that size bar will also burn from lack of lube, and the chain will stretch from the excess heat from the friction (also from lack of lube). It does not matter what sprocket he uses, there would never be enough torque to drive a 32" bar with a 250 saw. You might be able to feather it with a 24. If you feather a saw right in green softwood, you can get them to run just about anything. But in reality? Phut... But hey, there are suckers born every minute.
Now that said, I run one of my 026s with a 16 inch Picco/Low Profile B&C setup, and that is a light saber in the wood. Stihl sells that setup in the EU, but not here in the states. The Germans rave about them on the 261. Guys also ran large mount Logosol bars here with low profile chain for chainsaw milling with 60cc and 70cc saws, and that was more common here on AS back in the day. It cuts a lot narrower kerf, so the saws overheat less. Logosol and Stihl no longer sell large mount Picco bars in the US for fear of litigation though. Stihl only sold large mount Picco bars here on the 024 for a few months when they came out. You can get these newer Canon low profile large mount bars and run them with Picco loops on Stihls though. The small chain is under a lot of stress though, and not designed to take the torque of larger saws. It works well on the 260, but anything larger I would be leery.
CapitaineHaddoc
European Westcoaster
Yep, that's the same guy. It's not a bad seller, i bought double beveled files from him 2 times, no problem. But i'll never buy a saw from him
jrr344
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't understand why a hotrod 250 gets a 32" bar and a hotrod 880 gets a 25" bar? http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-Chain..._Chainsaws&hash=item3f3abe391e#ht_1642wt_1124
I've bought picco chain and climbing bits and he was great, as you say though I can live without a "race" sawYep, that's the same guy. It's not a bad seller, i bought double beveled files from him 2 times, no problem. But i'll never buy a saw from him
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yes .325x8 moves about 1.5% more chain per turn of the crank.
Informative post.
SawTroll
Information Collector
jughead500
Sasquatch
Don't forget the magic piltz dust.
windthrown
361 Junkie
Yah, KevlarGaffs is one of his Ebay user IDs. I looked at the county records for his lot address and there were several fictitious names for several business at that address over the years. Piltz seems to be his current business name of choice, but he is also using Tarzan ZipLines LLC.
His latest gag is to sell 18 inch Picco bars and PS3 chain (Stihl low profile full-chisel safety) with a 7 pin rim drive kit. He calls them Hot Rod kits and claims they will turn a 170/180/210/250 into a MONSTER SAW. Sure... a stock spur drive Picco B&C will just not run the same... or so he claims. The main improvement over .325 is the narrower kerf of Picco. I switched all my 250/230 saws to Picco when I had a lot of 1123 saws because they plain cut better and faster with that than .325. More cutting improvement comes from switching to full chisel chain from semi-chisel, but good luck running that in crud. It will dull in a heartbeat. I use mostly Carlton non-safety Low Profile semi-chisel loops on my 211. That Carlton chain (Baileys sells it as Woodland PRO) is an improvement over Stihl safety semi-chisel PM. If you really want to cut fast with Picco get a PS loop: it is Stihl's newer full chisel non-safety low profile. It is hard to get though, and few dealers have it in stock. As for running rim drives on small non-pro saws, they work better over time for sure. But they are not going to add anything in terms of performance. I am waiting for my spur sprocket to wear before I replace it on my 211 with a rim drive.
In the end, if you want to improve cutting performance on a small mount Stihl saw, switch it to Picco/low pro from .325 and run PS3 or PS full chisel chain. The improvement will be noticeable. Also keep the bar length within the range that the Stihl engineers designed the saws to run so the oilers can keep the chain lubed (and the toque demand within reason). Also if you want to increase chain speed, you can go with a larger rim drive, as Piltz says to do, but that will also decrease torque (you will bog a lot more). For a longer bar, you actually need a smaller rim drive to overcome the friction of the added length. Most of us swap in larger rims to run SMALLER bars to increase chain speed, not the other way around. He seems to have some type of inverse logic going on here.
You could also file off every other cutter and make your own low profile skip chain which would increase chain speed and keep torque up. Or... you can buy a 250 MONSTER SAW from KevlarTarzanPiltzZiplinesGaffs with a 32 inch bar and your balls will surely increase in diameter by an inch, and your rod will grow at least 2 inches longer to impress your woman. It must be true, yes? I read it on the innernet! I am surprised that he has not been sued into extinction yet. Stihl and Logosol do not sell large mount Picco bars in the US for a reason. Also if someone stabs themselves with a modified saw that he worked on and sold, he will be easily held liable for any accident in the courts.yes but only for one cut. then you must put the saw on ebay for parts or not workingI've heard that if you don't force the cut, an MS-250 can run a 40" bar.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
That would cut some interesting arcs - would you like all left hand or all right hand cutters?
windthrown
361 Junkie
That would cut some interesting arcs - would you like all left hand or all right hand cutters?
You have a point there. But if you are going to make skip Picco by grinding off cutters, you may as well have all left or right hand cutters for your MONSTER ARC SAW that you bought from Piltz.
However, I will correct myself here and say to cut every third cuter and make low profile semi-skip. That should keep the revs up and the torque down by a factor of 33%, and actually cut straight. I also did a Google search and it appears that someone out there actually does make low profile skip loops. Green Machines sells a saw with that chain anyway:
http://www.amazon.com/GREEN-MACHINE-CHAINSAW-Profile-Tooth/dp/B009YZ7G1I
I am surprised it is not sold as THE GREEM MACHINE MONSTER SAW!
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Actually many Poulan saws come with a full skip version or Oregon 91VG - it has double shark fin bumper links between every cutter. It's nasty stuff. But if you take the time to grind off the shark fins you get full skip chamfer chisel, which happens to work quite well on pole saws.
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