.325 chain ?

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DonE911

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Anyone use .325 ripping chain?

Baileys says they used to have some but not anymore. Anyone grinding thier own ??

I run 066's on my logosol and was kicking around the .325 idea. Most of my milling is done with 16" bar, but I have used a 25" a few times and the 20" from time to time until the 16" will work.

Someone here has probably done it, so how did it work out?
 
I've only used 3/8 ripping chain I filed myself. I cant say about the .325 because I've never tried it.
 
I find it quite decent, noted that I think only the Stihl rs chain has the full sized cutters, also I think it is also a bit harder than some of the others.

You will likely want a 9 tooth 325 rim if its small and/or softer stuff you are milling.

I like the 325 rs as a work chain on poplar, even has meritt in some cases to post fast times.

Brian
 
Will you be using the .325 run on the same bar as the 3/8 ? I am interested in how this would work on the logosol, have been looking for a used one.
 
.325 chain will not run on a 3/8 bar. Both the rim sprocket (or spur) and bar (or replaceable tip) must be changed.

If I'm correct that the Logosol uses low profile 3/8 then you may be running your best option already.

I find that .325 is noticeably faster than standard 3/8 with an Alaskan. But I doubt that it's much different than 3/8 lo-pro. The time I tried to do a decent apples-to-apples comparison I thought the 3/8 lo-pro was fastest but after snapping a couple of loops milling Beech I concluded that .325 was the best choice.

I use .325/.050/chisel for ripping, grind it myself. If you're looking for a cheap .325 bar to try out, for under $20 Bailey's sells 16", 18", and 20" bars (ArborPRO narrow kerf) which will fit your 066.
 
Thanks for the info so far... Yes the 3/8 LP that logosol uses/sells is pretty good,but $$$.

I just tried some of the new .365 stuff that bailey's is selling. It's not as good as the stihl chain that logosol sells, but its cheaper for sure.

I was considering the arbor pro narrow kerf bar and i think it was the 20NK or 20RC chain. I'd swap my 540 over to .325 and have everything running .325 ( several other small saws on .325 already )

I have been hand filing my chain, but I finally ordered a grinder to work on all these chains. I've been milling alot of red oak ,so chains dull fairly quickly.

Speaking of that arbor pro bar, are you using one to mill with?? How does it hold up?
 
onionman,

I can't answer for the 325, but I like 5 deg in red oak with the 3/8 lp... I haven't cut enough of anything else to have an opinion.
 
I have had good luck also with 0 deg, and a sequence of top plate removal:

cutter with all of top plate removed, next with half removed and finally a full top plate. Also works without the top plates removed but lackes bite in harder/larger wood.

That seams to be about the smoothest on small softer wood anyway.
 
Smooth is what i am looking for.
Can a 3120 be set up to run .325 or lp on a apx 36" bar?
what would be needed ?
Onion
 
For a 20" bar I grind all cutters to 0 degrees. The cut is smooth and fast. My ArborPro narrow kerf bar is holding up fine, but it's not used heavily.

For a 36" bar I still go 0 degrees, but I cut off every other pair of top plates in the typical "ripping chain" style.

GB makes 36" and 42" bars for chainsaw millers that are .050 gauge with a replaceable .325 tip. I have a 36" for my 084, and I believe they make them with mounts for the 066 and Husky 3120 as well.
 

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