.325 narrow kerf on 50cc saw

[2000ssm6]

The "3.3hp" Husky 353 outcuts the "3.5hp" 260 that we still get here with the standard bar and chain - guess the reason for that.......

The 353 comes with a H30/95VP, and the 260 with a 25RMC, that isn't narrow kerf!

The NE346xp is in a totally different class, so I leave it out of that discussion!

The 353 outcuts it by 2-3 days in the same cut? Didn't think so, more like tenths of a second if it even outcuts it.:monkey:

The 346 in a different class? What is it a 60cc saw?

Plain and simple, no need for .325, keeping up with different bars, files, grinder wheels, rims, sprokets. ANY of the top 50cc saws run fine with it. For those saying the 3/8 vibrates too much, you either are not filing it right or have a cheap chain. Try a new loop of Stihl RSC. The most common 3/8 is meant to cut aggressive, if you don't like aggressive cutting stick with .325.

 

[Islander]

3/8" is great on my 5100S for any wood over 2" dia. Smooth as silk in fact...

The bumpiness is only a factor for zinging off small branches. Most people probably don't bother with anything that small...goes in a chipper or stays on the ground.

In my case, since I'm working around my field, I try to pick up every branch and twig...so I don't find it the hard way in the forage mower next summer.

Any by bumpy ride, I mean a slight annoyance...

Overall 3/8" works fine for everything I need. I'm only considering LP chain because I have a ton of small stuff to do at once...so worth swapping chains if it's a little easier or more productive.

 

[Philbert]

I have a new 5100S that is setup for 3/8" from the factory...it works great, but I also notice the "bumpiness" when cutting small limbs and branches.

Narrow kerf and low profile chains each take smaller bites, which may make for smoother cuts from each.

One difference is that .325 will take smaller bites, but take more of them than .375 chain (due to closer spacing of the smaller cutters), whereas .375 low profile will take the same number of bites, but smaller sized, than full sized .375 chain (did I say that clearly?).

When we did timed tests with .325 and .375 chain on the same saws at a recent Get-To-Gether we got very similar times. I think that if you ran LP next to full sized 3/8, you would see bigger differences, although, speed may not be an overriding concern in your type of cutting.

They are not for everything, but both chains can be good choices for smaller saws, smaller wood, pruning, etc.

Some of the newer chains incorporate anti-vibe features which do not affect cutting speed, but will contribute to a smoother cut. And as noted, properly sharpened chains will cut smoother.

Despite 2000ssm6's insistence that there is 'no need' for this chain, I would say that they are not for every situation, but could be a good choice in the right situation.

Philbert

 

[SawTroll]

Niko, i wonder if DolmarUSA decided that the best compromise was to run 3/8th on these saws, due to the most common timbers cut in the US and also what will be commonly available plus the fact that alot of 5100 owners will run bigger saws or already have bigger saws and want to keep 3/8th as the commonality. It might not be the optimum but it may be the best overall(if you get what i mean by BEST )

on another note regarding hp figures it has been widely regarded that USA hp figures in the auto industry, have always been a bit optimistic...

cheers, Serg

I see what you mean, and have no problem with it - but they actually offer the 5100 with .325 as well as 3/8".

 

[SawTroll]

Narrow kerf and low profile chains each take smaller bites, which may make for smoother cuts from each.

One difference is that .325 will take smaller bites, but take more of them than .375 chain (due to closer spacing of the smaller cutters), whereas .375 low profile will take the same number of bites, but smaller sized, than full sized .375 chain (did I say that clearly?).

When we did timed tests with .325 and .375 chain on the same saws at a recent Get-To-Gether we got very similar times. I think that if you ran LP next to full sized 3/8, you would see bigger differences, although, speed may not be an overriding concern in your type of cutting.

They are not for everything, but both chains can be good choices for smaller saws, smaller wood, pruning, etc.

Some of the newer chains incorporate anti-vibe features which do not affect cutting speed, but will contribute to a smoother cut. And as noted, properly sharpened chains will cut smoother.

Despite 2000ssm6's insistence that there is 'no need' for this chain, I would say that they are not for every situation, but could be a good choice in the right situation.

Philbert

Clear enough, and you are right!

 

[belgian]

I run narrow kerf bars and 95vp on all of my limbing saws (OE+NE 346 and dolmar 5100). The bar and chain combo is light weight, cuts reasonably well, low kickback, easy to sharpen and stays sharp.

If you use your saw as a limbing saw, such as the 346XP is intented, I agree 100% with this post. I'll stay with the .325 any time.

Now I can understand someone having a Dolmar 5100 and who uses it really as a firewood saw, the 3/8 is a very good choice, especially since this saw seems to have the grunt to pull it !

 

[SawTroll]

....

Plain and simple, no need for .325, keeping up with different bars, files, grinder wheels, rims, sprokets. ANY of the top 50cc saws run fine with it. .....

Both .325 and 3/8" have their place, there is no reason to exclude one option
just because you don't like it.....:monkey::monkey:

 

[CGC4200]

Thanks for ideas on .325

I thought a 50 CC. saw might be too much torque for .325 NK.

my next saw project:

I have a 30" post oak down on my place.
The Poulan 4200 & 5400 need work.
It would make a lot of firewood, but everybody
that burns it has more than they need.

 

[J.W Younger]

Anybody running this setup?
I am constantly having to deal with dropped limbs and trees
on my small farm. Standard 3/8" is too bouncy for smaller limbs.
I put a 8 tooth .325 rim sprocket & 18" NK bar & chain on Makita DCS 520.
I like the chain speed, just wondering if it would hold up.
Saw is rated @ 3.2 hp, same as Husqvarna 55.

I have that set up on a 46cc saw and its ok. I belive all around tho i like the 3/8 lp better its a little easier to sharpen and seems to strech less, not that the nk is that bad more of a personal choice thing.

 

[cjrenegade82]

There is just as much reason to have 325 as any other. Its just another size.
If you are using 3/8 and dont like it try something else mind it does cost to change set ups. 3/8lp might be pushing it on a 50cc saw Iv never seen anyone run that
The only chain I have ever broke or seen break was stihl

 

[rob066]

I have a Husqvarna 346 ne. I run the carlton narrow kerf chain on it. I personaly like this chain. This stuff stays sharp real well. I like to throw the Oregon nk chain in the garbage. This type of chain dont cut the fastest but works well for me as a firewood cutter.

 

[J.W Younger]

There is just as much reason to have 325 as any other. Its just another size.
If you are using 3/8 and dont like it try something else mind it does cost to change set ups. 3/8lp might be pushing it on a 50cc saw Iv never seen anyone run that
The only chain I have ever broke or seen break was stihl

If someone could give me some info on a picco rim for my 5100 I would'nt hesitate to try a lp set up. The chamfer chisel cuts fast and now that a longer cutter is available it seems like a good way to put more wood in the stove and less on the ground.I've heard of 660s running low profile chain.

 

[cjrenegade82]

If you do let me know how it works out

 

[Philbert]

If someone could give me some info on a picco rim for my 5100 I would'nt hesitate to try a lp set up. The chamfer chisel cuts fast and now that a longer cutter is available it seems like a good way to put more wood in the stove and less on the ground.I've heard of 660s running low profile chain.

Again, LOW PROFILE (lower height cutter) is not the same as NARROW KERF (narrower cutter). 3/8" Low Profile chain will put just as much saw dust on the ground as standard 3/8" chain ('PICCO' is just STIHL's name for Low Profile chain) but will take longer to do it.

Narrow Kerf chain will put less saw dust on the ground because it cuts a narrower slot.

If you change to either one of these chains, you may have to change your sprocket and bar as well.

Philbert

Check out this thread ("Picco chain?"), especially posts 18 and 20 re running 3/8" LP chain on standard 3/8" bars:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=98135&highlight="low+profile"+"sprocket"
.

 

[sonorachainsaw]

i own a echo 500vl that comes with a 3/8 chain it has more power than i know what to do with on a 50cc

 

[cjrenegade82]

Again, LOW PROFILE (lower height cutter) is not the same as NARROW KERF (narrower cutter). 3/8" Low Profile chain will put just as much saw dust on the ground as standard 3/8" chain ('PICCO' is just STIHL's name for Low Profile chain) but will take longer to do it.

Narrow Kerf chain will put less saw dust on the ground because it cuts a narrower slot.

If you change to either one of these chains, you may have to change your sprocket and bar as well.

Philbert


3/8lp has a much more narrow kerf than regular 3/8 and even less than 325nk
it will put less saw dust on the ground than both of them it is also weaker than them both

 

[2000ssm6]

Again, LOW PROFILE (lower height cutter) is not the same as NARROW KERF (narrower cutter). 3/8" Low Profile chain will put just as much saw dust on the ground as standard 3/8" chain ('PICCO' is just STIHL's name for Low Profile chain) but will take longer to do it.

Yup, 3/8 Picco is tiny, for tiny saws. Runs great on my 211. Here is a pic of chains side by side.

From left to right. .325, 3/8 Picco, 3/8 RSC.
If I can remember right, that is .325 first(now in the junk pile).

 

[2000ssm6]

Both .325 and 3/8" have their place, there is no reason to exclude one option
just because you don't like it.....:monkey::monkey:

.325 has no place here at my house. Better?

 

[J.W Younger]

I have never hear anyone say low profile 3/8 cut the same width kerf as regular 3/8 before.
Tell me more philbert.

 

[Philbert]

There are a confusing number of terms used to describe saw chain, beyond the basic 'pitch', 'gauge', and ' drive links'. There are cutter tooth shapes (scratcher', 'chipper', ' semi-chisel', 'chisel', etc.), sequence terms ('full comp', 'semi-skip', ' skip tooth', etc.), grind angle nomenclature, special chains for ripping, low kickback features (varied), etc., etc., etc. Then we get into each manufacturer's special terms or brand names for one or a combination of these features, and occasionally, run into some really weird or special purpose chain.

I am just trying to keep some of those terms straight in this thread.

My understanding of the term 'low profile' is that the height of cutter is reduced. It may have a narrower kerf, but necessarily. There are many possible combinations among manufacturers and models.

Compare that to 'narrow kerf' chain, where, as the name implies, the width of the kerf is reduced, without reducing the width of the drive link / bar groove. This requires the use of a narrower bar to allow clearance, as noted on the Oregon website for their Micro-Lite brand of narrow kerf chains:

Always use a Micro-Lite™bar with a Micro-Lite™chain. Here’s why:
To help a Micro-Lite™chain cut its narrower kerf, Micro- Lite™bars are built slightly thinner than standard bars. If Micro-Lite™chain is run on a standard bar, there may be hang-ups during the cut. And if standard chain is run on a Micro-Lite™bar, all the performance advantages of cut-
ting a narrower kerf will be lost.

Commonly available 3/8" LP chain may not cut as wide a kerf as common, 'standard' 3/8" chain, but it does not normally require narrower guide bars for clearance.

Hope that clears things up.

Philbert