346XP needs replaced....it's at 90 PSI, what saw is comparable today?

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Can't get the muffler bolt out, one is stripped.....so I can take a pic of the real deal when I pull it apart.
You also need to check the end gap of the ring in the cylinder Use the piston to square it up and feeler gauges to measure. This needs to be done in a clean (no transfer) cylinder.

Cylinders don't usually wear as the nikasil is VERY hard. I suspect that you have been running a previously seized engine. Post some photos of the inside of the cylinder. You also need to get that muffler off. Penetrating oil and heat.
 
You also need to check the end gap of the ring in the cylinder Use the piston to square it up and feeler gauges to measure. This needs to be done in a clean (no transfer) cylinder.

Cylinders don't usually wear as the nikasil is VERY hard. I suspect that you have been running a previously seized engine. Post some photos of the inside of the cylinder. You also need to get that muffler off. Penetrating oil and heat.
Check the end for what tolerance? What is a clean, no transfer cylinder? I can promise this saw was never previously seized, that is unless we have different defintions of seized. Seized to me means it ran without lubrictaion, got too hot, and the piston got stuck. What say you?
 
Does the saw have a decompression button?
Have you checked the spark arrestor in the exhaust isn't plugged up with carbon?
Checked the decomp...but now that I write this, maybe I didn't. Check compression with decomp not pressed, then pressed it comapression was about 35 psi lower. I guess it could leaking pressed and not pressed. How would you check the decomp? I assume the tiny screen is the arrester, yes it was clean.
 
Ok...so why do I need a professional saw? I'm thinking a box store 450 or 445 with a 2 year warranty that I can extend to 5 years by buying fuel is better. My wife and I were talking and we were both curious about what really is the difference in the professional versus the homeowner saw? Do they really make a different saw, or are some parts the same? Is the metal the same? What is the REAL difference, or is just stickers amd marketing? I see a 1 year professional saw warranty and think that is not for me, a farmer with a wood burner. Thoughts?
A lot of times you will see a big gap in performance. Most homeowner saws are clamshell design as well.
 
I'd be shopping for an OEM 346XP NE piston and cylinder $150, rather than a new saw that will have little or no performance improvement and have an electronic carb that you can't easily service yourself.

A new 550xp mark 2 has more torque than any 346/2153 I ever owned or ran.
 
All great replies and I do want to save it. I assume that after 11 years the P/C just got worn out and there was no "failure event" that casued the low compression. The P/C look good to me but what do I know....I don't often rebuild stuff. I can't see anything wrong, I just assume that it's old and worn out. Does that happen?
Old & worn out is pretty improbable given that you have replaced the ring.
There are good pictures of damaged pistons for your reference here: http://www.madsens1.com/saw_piston_fail.htm
I would expect it would have stood out when you had it apart if it was.
Did you leak test it once you put it back together?
If your piston & cylinder aren't scored in any way I would suspect whatever is causing your low compression will be fairly cheap & easy to fix once you identify it
 
Also, upgrade your intake clamp to this style. Will seal better to prevent an air leak that will make the saw run lean and burn up that new piston and cylinder. Husqvarna part number 505283309.

View attachment 1039201 View attachment 1039202
You should add if using the original clamp it needs modified a bit for the new clamp. Not hard to do at all. Just a little patience, and a side cutter/sharp knife to remove the old clamp parts.
 

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