346xp or 460 rancher??

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:agree2: Pro / schmo The whole pro thing is overrated! If you like a 250 or 455 or 350 then who cares, and like he said if you can buy two 250 s for the price of one 260 and you can where I live! Why not if you drop a tree on it your out half the money! Also I owned a 260 pro was it double the saw the 250 is ? not hardly, so buy a 250 or what ever non pro saw you like run it a couple yrs sell it and buy a new one!

I have done this exact thing with a husky 350 and a 345 ran them 2yrs each sold them for 200 to 250 each and bought another new one with full warranty!

Overrated.....lolol. I tell you what man, when you NEED that horsepower and chainspeed to sever the hinge and chase a top off the trunk to minimize the bullride you're about to go for, those few extra hundred dollars missing from my wallet seem very insignificant.

When you're payin crew by the hour, those few extra hundred dollars can easily be made back in a week in time savings alone, keeping guys standing around waiting on a saw that's too slow to keep up with them costs far more than a pro saw. Simply because the pro quality saws cut faster than comparable homeowner saws.

What do lots of the loggers do when they go buy a new pro saw? They mod it, right out of the box, to make it even faster than it comes from the factory. Why would they do that? It's a brand new pro saw......It's because those few greenbacks don't mean much compared to the performance they get from modded pro saws. How many homeowner saws do loggers take to the woods?

Homeowner saws are great for their purpose. Affordable, reliable, and they'll get the job done, but they're not built to take the abuse the pro's can dish out all day long day after day. When every minute that ticks by is costing you money, or not making you as much as it could, those seconds shaved off of every cut add up to pro saws being well worth the extra they cost.

But if you're in the habit of dropping trees on your saws, it probably is better to squish the cheap ones.
 
Overrated.....lolol. I tell you what man, when you NEED that horsepower and chainspeed to sever the hinge and chase a top off the trunk to minimize the bullride you're about to go for, those few extra hundred dollars missing from my wallet seem very insignificant.

When you're payin crew by the hour, those few extra hundred dollars can easily be made back in a week in time savings alone, keeping guys standing around waiting on a saw that's too slow to keep up with them costs far more than a pro saw. Simply because the pro quality saws cut faster than comparable homeowner saws.

What do lots of the loggers do when they go buy a new pro saw? They mod it, right out of the box, to make it even faster than it comes from the factory. Why would they do that? It's a brand new pro saw......It's because those few greenbacks don't mean much compared to the performance they get from modded pro saws. How many homeowner saws do loggers take to the woods?

Homeowner saws are great for their purpose. Affordable, reliable, and they'll get the job done, but they're not built to take the abuse the pro's can dish out all day long day after day. When every minute that ticks by is costing you money, or not making you as much as it could, those seconds shaved off of every cut add up to pro saws being well worth the extra they cost.

But if you're in the habit of dropping trees on your saws, it probably is better to squish the cheap ones.


great post!
 
i can see your point, but i think it matters more how well you take care of your saws, not what model you use. if i only did bucket work, i'd probably get a 260. i climb alot tho so i'd rather have a much lighter, cheaper and almost as powerful 250, which can cut very nearly the same speed. 200 is better than 192, but they both suck imo. only thing i will say is far better on pro saws is durability. i have a really annoying problem with my 250s, they have a gas vent on the top of the tank, a hose is attached to it which runs to a breather thing on the other side of the carb. if they're dropped or more often allowed to slap against the tree in a buttcatch, the body of the saw can move over enough to sheer the hose off of the nipple, i've also had the nipple break in this way.
i'm a climber, not a logger. if i was running around on the ground all day felling large trees, i'd buy pros i'm sure.
 
i can see your point, but i think it matters more how well you take care of your saws, not what model you use. if i only did bucket work, i'd probably get a 260. i climb alot tho so i'd rather have a much lighter, cheaper and almost as powerful 250, which can cut very nearly the same speed. 200 is better than 192, but they both suck imo. only thing i will say is far better on pro saws is durability. i have a really annoying problem with my 250s, they have a gas vent on the top of the tank, a hose is attached to it which runs to a breather thing on the other side of the carb. if they're dropped or more often allowed to slap against the tree in a buttcatch, the body of the saw can move over enough to sheer the hose off of the nipple, i've also had the nipple break in this way.
i'm a climber, not a logger. if i was running around on the ground all day felling large trees, i'd buy pros i'm sure.

yup. you have confirmed it. complete hack.


or a knucklehead at the very least. as a climber how can you say that the 200t sucks?

this guy is a troll.
 
yup. you have confirmed it. complete hack.


or a knucklehead at the very least. as a climber how can you say that the 200t sucks?

this guy is a troll.

yep, you confirmed it, you're childish. when someone says something you dont like, you resort to namecalling
tophandle saws suck. doesnt mastter which model. i have like an extra foot of reach with even the smallest rearhandle saw. not to mention you cant cut much big stuff with a 200
 
I have had several 200T and they rock. I run 16" bars on mine, and rarely have I needed to tie onto a 036 or 066 (why the hell did Stihl change thier model numbers anyway...). But if i need a big saw, it's not far away. I also climb with a 260 Pro, when I think I'm gonna need it. All in all, the 200T is the cream of the crop, and I love it.:cheers:
 
yep, you confirmed it, you're childish. when someone says something you dont like, you resort to namecalling
tophandle saws suck. doesnt mastter which model. i have like an extra foot of reach with even the smallest rearhandle saw. not to mention you cant cut much big stuff with a 200

:agree2: Hey you guys that think all non pro saws a junk and would rather pay twice the price as in the 250/260 go ahead! Also you guys who think your opinion is the only right one, go on thinking that ,someday youll learn the value of various opinions! As for the nonpro saw vs pro saw, like I said some of the pro saws are junk just like some of the homeowner saws are junk! I have some pro saws and some non pro saws and Ill bet I can do just as much work with my saws as I could if they were all pro! I fact a little more cause I wont be so busy standing around telling everybody about my pro saw!!!
 
sorry mo. you dont know what your talking about. your homeowner saw will not stand up against fulltime go. just wont as that is too much to ask for too long a time.

you gonna ask the fat kid to run a marathon or the kenyan?

and asthesun. again you confirm. cant cut big wood with a 2hunge......hahahahahaha.

thanks i needed that laugh.

i know this thread is about the 346 and the that other saw but let it be known that the 200t is the greatest saw of all time, out of the box minus the baffle and limiter cap, ever made in this tree climber's opinion.

if i was doing monster topping jobs in big wood then yes, the rearhandled 260 or 346 would be a good choice.

the way i sharpen a saw though i dont need a rearhandle till i need 18 inches of bar which happen to reside on my 361 and if that isnt enough i go with the 371xp with a 20 inch long bar. after that you ask? well if i am climbing with my 660 magnum (28 inch) then it is indeed a good day.

why did i just verbally felate my saw collection like that you ask? well there isnt a home owner saw amongst them now is there?

professionally yours,
oldirty
 
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Tried some Jonserod saws not bad

several years ago Jonsered would give you 50.00 for your old saw (running or not) so I tried them, they ran good were easy to start had power , and did the job. Good thing about them was I was the only one using them in my area, and when my truck got broke into and they turned up at the pawn shop I got them all back, so running an off brand from the main crowd has its advantages. Also make sure you guys mark your saws somewhere only you know so you can identify them, if they come up missing.
 
ms250:
DISPLACEMENT
45.4 cc (2.77 cu. in.)

ENGINE POWER
2.2 kW (3.0 bhp)

WEIGHT (powerhead only)
4.6 kg (10.1 lbs.)

ms200:
DISPLACEMENT
35.2 cc (2.15 cu. in.)

ENGINE POWER
1.6 kW (2.1 bhp)

WEIGHT (powerhead only)
3.5 kg (7.7 lbs.)

ms250>200t
has more power and costs less.
you're making yourself look like a child by acting like this. i'll sleep well tonight knowing i bought a better saw at half the price.
 
ms250>200t
has more power and costs less.
you're making yourself look like a child by acting like this. i'll sleep well tonight knowing i bought a better saw at half the price.

hmmm....makin me wonder.....

how many hours a week do you spend IN a tree?

between the 200t and the 250 the 250 is the better choice IF (and only if) you're only doing groundwork with it. once you leave the ground the 200 has no compare. end of story.

i'd really like to see a 200 w/ a 14" bar race a 250 w/ an 18"er, i'm betting the 200 would win in most wood with alot less hp.......it's all about chain speed.

but maybe you're the trendsetter who'll show us all that everyday climbing with a rear handled homeowner saw really is the wave of the future. :monkey:

how long does it take to learn to use the right tool for the job?
 
sorry mo. you dont know what your talking about. your homeowner saw will not stand up against fulltime go. just wont as that is too much to ask for too long a time.

you gonna ask the fat kid to run a marathon or the kenyan?

and asthesun. again you confirm. cant cut big wood with a 2hunge......hahahahahaha.

thanks i needed that laugh.

i know this thread is about the 346 and the that other saw but let it be known that the 200t is the greatest saw of all time, out of the box minus the baffle and limiter cap, ever made in this tree climber's opinion.

if i was doing monster topping jobs in big wood then yes, the rearhandled 260 or 346 would be a good choice.

the way i sharpen a saw though i dont need a rearhandle till i need 18 inches of bar which happen to reside on my 361 and if that isnt enough i go with the 371xp with a 20 inch long bar. after that you ask? well if i am climbing with my 660 magnum (25 inch) then it is indeed a good day.

why did i just verbally felate my saw collection like that you ask? well there isnt a home owner saw amongst them now is there?

professionally yours,
oldirty



:cheers: Hey thats your opinion and thats fine with me! If nothing else your a skilled writer, Ill give you that! LOL

Anyway like I said If we all agreed would it be any fun??
 
ms250:
DISPLACEMENT
45.4 cc (2.77 cu. in.)

ENGINE POWER
2.2 kW (3.0 bhp)

WEIGHT (powerhead only)
4.6 kg (10.1 lbs.)

ms200:
DISPLACEMENT
35.2 cc (2.15 cu. in.)

ENGINE POWER
1.6 kW (2.1 bhp)

WEIGHT (powerhead only)
3.5 kg (7.7 lbs.)

ms250>200t
has more power and costs less.
you're making yourself look like a child by acting like this. i'll sleep well tonight knowing i bought a better saw at half the price.

and i will be sleeping well tonight knowing that you are still hard at work in the tree cutting with a boat anchor.

lol.

cmon man. you gotta be troll'n this site. gotta be.
 
hmmm....makin me wonder.....

how many hours a week do you spend IN a tree?

between the 200t and the 250 the 250 is the better choice IF (and only if) you're only doing groundwork with it. once you leave the ground the 200 has no compare. end of story.

i'd really like to see a 200 w/ a 14" bar race a 250 w/ an 18"er, i'm betting the 200 would win in most wood with alot less hp.......it's all about chain speed.

but maybe you're the trendsetter who'll show us all that everyday climbing with a rear handled homeowner saw really is the wave of the future. :monkey:

how long does it take to learn to use the right tool for the job?

the only advantages a 200 has over a 250 imo is weight and supposed durability. my last 250 lasted like 5 yrs tho which is more than enough for something i climb with every day. i primarily do large removals and large limb removals so having something like a 200 is pointless. also i cant stand tophandle saws. prolly will buy a 200 rearhandle eventually, but in no hurry since 250 has more power. i also could probably swap out the sprocket on my 250 and run a pico bar and chain and then i'd definitely cut faster than a 200
 
I have both 025 and 200T and the 025 does do well in the tree but I like the 200T because of the top handle. When climbing on spikes and close too the tree I like the more compact saw. I agree a little about what you said earlier the extra reach is nice when out on a limb and stuff, but sometimes that may mean your being a little unsafe if your reaching out too much. I know when all get in a rush and do things we shouldn't. To me I think its the matter of the right saw for the right job but the top handle definitely has its place in the batting rotation and its usually leading off.
 
Only a true stihl fan will appreciate this but look my number of posts is now 361Damn I have to quit now... Cant waste that number

***UPDATE*** 361 is gone I couldnt hold back
 
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about "no loggers using home owner saws"

I've know of quite a few loggers who use ms390's as backup saws and if they made a bigger "homeowner saw" some might use them as their main saws. and the only consistent definition I've heard of for a homeowner saw is the clam shell engine which will probly be the future of saws if they could lose the "home owner" monkier. The fact that it takes a little longer to work on to rering or swap a piston means little to most loggers because by the time it needs that the rest of the saws wore out so they just buy a new saw. thats why you hardly see 440's anymore all you see are 441's and stihl just stopped selling 440s thats how quikly the pro saws wear out :chainsaw:
 
stihl just stopped selling 440s thats how quikly the pro saws wear out :chainsaw:

who is this guy?


they stopped making that saw, the 044/440, and replaced it in the pro lineup with the 441.

and if you are a company that consistently buy 2nd rate **** you are a second rate company.
 
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