359 Problems???????

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hammer0419 said:
Called the place I bought it from and found out why I was having all my problems. I was told the NEW Husky's, when you pull the choke out does not activate the throttle (1/2 throttle) like the past models. He said start it on the ground with my toe holding the throttle in and it will fire up. If you do not depress the throttle you will just flood the new models, which I have proved and then some. Kind of sucks but she runs like hell now.............


This is not correct, unless it is VERY new and I have yet to see it. I sold a 359E-tech on thursday and it definately had the high idle lock when the choke was pulled out. I can't beliece that holding the throttle with your toe is the new way to start saws.

What some of the guys are saying about missing the "pop" when the deco closes is right and explains why so many people are coming in with flodded saws.
 
I paid attention to that and it would never pop. My 5 year old 350 starts with no problems what so ever. Even if it has sat a while without being used. Once it stops raining and I can go out and use it I will try it the "OLD" way and see if the valve pops.
 
This is not correct, unless it is VERY new and I have yet to see it. I sold a 359E-tech on thursday and it definately had the high idle lock when the choke was pulled out. I can't beliece that holding the throttle with your toe is the new way to start saws.

What some of the guys are saying about missing the "pop" when the deco closes is right and explains why so many people are coming in with flodded saws.

I agree. I've gotten two new Huskys within the past 8 weeks or so (one of them an 'e-tech') and both of them have no problem starting, and both have the high idle lock.
To start a cold saw you pull the choke out all the way, make sure it is set to 'on' and give it a few pulls until it acts like it wants to start, or 'pops'. (You've got one chance of catching the 'pop', otherwise you'll flood it every time.) Then simply push the choke back in and give it another pull or two on the rope and it will start right up. Then hit the throttle to kick the idle down.
 
hammer0419 said:
Called the place I bought it from and found out why I was having all my problems. I was told the NEW Husky's, when you pull the choke out does not activate the throttle (1/2 throttle) like the past models. He said start it on the ground with my toe holding the throttle in and it will fire up. If you do not depress the throttle you will just flood the new models, which I have proved and then some. Kind of sucks but she runs like hell now.............

I just bought a new one and it has the throttle activated when you pull the choke out and after you push the choke back in. I think he told you wrong. I had trouble starting mine the first time due to flooding also. I think it's all about technique like the other guys are saying.
 
RockinB said:
Pull out the choke (sets the "on switch").

Set the decomp valve.

Pull until it pops. push the choke in and pull until it starts.

Do not touch the trigger or you will kick off the high idle....

My new one takes 3 to 4 pulls cold.

When warm, it takes one pull.

Yes but after you pull the choke out, you squeeze the throttle once to set the high idle.
then after your saw fires. you push the choke in.
Do not touch the throttle and pull the cord. once maybe twice and your saw should be running at high idle.
Squeeze the throttle once again and your saw should be at idle.
I also don't think any saw manufacture would put a saw out telling you to use your foot to hold the throttle in to start. Hate to see you fall and have the saw running at high idle stuck to your boot. Be carefull .
 
manual said:
Yes but after you pull the choke out, you squeeze the throttle once to set the high idle.
.
I don't think so. If you hit the throttle after pulling the choke out it will take it off the high idle setting.
 
manual said:
Yes but after you pull the choke out, you squeeze the throttle once to set the high idle.



No, that is wrong. When you pull the choke knob, or push it on the new ETECH models, there is a mechanical linkage that sets the high idle. It moves the throttle plate when the choke is activated.


The high idle kickdown(by blipping the throttle) is used after the choke is open (off). When it is closed (on) you can pull the trigger till you are blue in the face. It will not do anything.


What is so hard about setting the choke, pulling until it pops, then remove the choke and pull again until it starts. Kinda the reason it is called easy start. You people are making it sound complicated.
 
I have thought more about starting a saw with this thread than ever before.

Now if I can't start a saw I'm pointing the finger this way.

Fred
 
manual said:
I also don't think any saw manufacture would put a saw out telling you to use your foot to hold the throttle in to start.

Agreed. Plus if you are wearing steel caps there is no way your toe will fit.
 
That is exactly what I thought. But I do not have the know how to tell him different. After struggling with trying to start it I was willing to try anything. It kind of perplexes me why he told me that. I bought it from is one of the biggest Husky dealers in the US. Buying from them was awesome price and product wise. The guy I talked to must have been lost.
 
GASoline71 said:
I've always drop-started my saws. So if I had a dealer tell me to start a saw with my toe touching the throttle... I'd politely tell him he was full of BS.

Gary

hahahahaha, now thats telling it like it is,lololol. I would say the exact samething for sure.
 
I purchased a new 359etech in late feb starting procedure is choke on pull till it pops choke off pull till it starts usually 3 pulls. Started hard but once i had a few tanks through it no problems starts every time same procedure. I would pull the cover off and make sure the carb is functioning properly when choke is pulled the high idle is set blip the throttle trigger and it should release. Sounds to me like your saw isn't going to high idle properly which would explain holding the throttle with your foot.
 
pop

foolprooflloyd said:
...starting procedure is choke on pull till it pops choke off pull till it starts usually 3 pulls. ....
I have observed that people probably have different conseptions as to what this "pop" really is. Some even count on the decomp button to tell them when the "pop" has happened.
In my (admittedly limited) experience, even the faintest sign that the saw want to start should be counted as a "pop" in this regard, especially on a saw that is known to easily flood, or is unknown to you.

Also, you could try to put the choke to the off position (but not the high idle), if nothing happens in three to four pulls. Then try on choke again if nothing happens in three pulls etc.
It works both on my Husky and on my Stihl, when they have been sitting for a while, and makes it easier to avoid flooding:biggrinbounce2: .
 

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