361 with a 28" bar

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OK that makes sense. Mechanically stronger for less stretch and able to absorb more power. That aside, would a narrower kerf be more desirable as far as needing less power to cut and/or faster cut speed?
 
Now that the discussion has come around to this question: For my own 361, I'd like to occasionally use a 24" bar for bigger wood, and I was thinking .325" chain might be good for a 24" bar because the kerf wouldn't be as wide and it wouldn't tax the powerhead as much. But I see there are no 24" bars that take .325" chain. Is there any reason for this other than "nobody ever asked for it"?
 
Canyon Angler said:
Now that the discussion has come around to this question: For my own 361, I'd like to occasionally use a 24" bar for bigger wood, and I was thinking .325" chain might be good for a 24" bar because the kerf wouldn't be as wide and it wouldn't tax the powerhead as much. But I see there are no 24" bars that take .325" chain. Is there any reason for this other than "nobody ever asked for it"?

If you want a 24" bar with .325 chain, all you need to do is swap the tip. The bar itself doesnt care with the pitch is, just the gauge.

HOWEVER......When I put the 28" with 3/8 on, it cut better than the 16" with .325. I guess theres something to be said for putting the proper load on a saw.
 
Canyon Angler said:
Now that the discussion has come around to this question: For my own 361, I'd like to occasionally use a 24" bar for bigger wood, and I was thinking .325" chain might be good for a 24" bar because the kerf wouldn't be as wide and it wouldn't tax the powerhead as much. But I see there are no 24" bars that take .325" chain. Is there any reason for this other than "nobody ever asked for it"?


Go one step further...Bailey's sells Full-Skip/Full-Chisel in .325!!!
 
CaseyForrest said:
Well, went back to the shop to get the correct rims.....No large spline .325 rims in 8 or 7 tooth, only 9 tooth.

So Im ditching the .325, and brought home a 16" ES bar and 2 RS chains.

.325 bar and chains are for sale on the trading post.
Good choise, I believe!:biggrinbounce2:

I forgot about the .325x8 beeing available only for small spline yesterday - you will need an aftermarket small-spline clutch drum (if it exist - Oregon/Baileys ????
 
Ombesb said:
Can i jump in and hijack this thread for just a second? I am wondering what is the real world effective difference between .325 and 3/8? I dont' mean the mechanics of it. I understand 3pins divided by 2 and so on, I mean what is the difference in cutting. I have gathered that 3/8 is generally considered better at power and bar length goes up, but not sure why? Any help here.
You will have to test it in the different types and sizes of wood that you plan to cut, to really know.

The .325 will have more cutters in the wood, and less space for chip transport. There is also lots of different cutter sizes in .325, and the choise of chain will have have an impact on the result.

Assuming the sprocket diameter is about the same, and the chain Stihl RS, .325 will often be fastest until the point where added friction and/or chip clearence becomes a problem.......:help: :help:

Stihl RS has higher cutters than other .325 chain - hence better chip clearance.

Ombesb said:
.... That aside, would a narrower kerf be more desirable as far as needing less power to cut and/or faster cut speed?

Yes, that is yet another factor in the all-over picture.
 
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