372 Carb ajdustment challenges

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Engineeringnerd

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Got in my tach from Baileys yesterday and put it to use. I've found the 372 a little tricky to set the top speed. I run it a little rich to about 12,000 rpm then slowly adjust it leaner. At around 12,500 it jumps up to 13,500 in about 1 billionth of a turn, no way to get it in between. Understanding that this saw has a speed limiting coil, I was wanting to stay just a little south of 13,500, also understanding that the tach's resolution is fairly big, I don't know if I'm @ 13,500 or in the 13,600 limiting zone.

Also, I find the jet screws really cheap, the slots are hard to find with a screwdriver and they are really soft/get mangled easily. Many times my driver slips right past the head. I've modified two drivers specifically to get a good fit, but the heads are still difficult to find blind and there isn't a lot of the slot left. If I take off the air cleaner shroud I can see what's going on, but carb adjustments should be performed with everything buttoned up. The carb's adjustment guide tubes are in place, but they let the driver slip past the screws. I'd prefer adding 0.000001 of a pound and have metal adjustment screws like the idle screw! Maybe there is a way to replace the plastic heads with better ones, or perhaps there are metal screws under the plastic limiting caps (I've already ground the "ears" off)???
 
I concur with Rah on this one - I gave up trying to adjust carbs with the saw running a long time ago... much easier to tweak things up or down a bit with the saw off, and then restart it to see how it runs...
 
Thanks for the input guys. After all these posts threatening eminent doom if one over-rev's a saw, I was walking away from the idea of making adjustments without it running.

It does seem a dicey proposition to make the adjustments without running if you have a speed limiting coil. If you adjust too lean without it running, you won't have a feel for how far you strayed from the hair-thin line of carburetor nirvana.

On my old Mac, for instance, I have a smooth transition from rough to lean. On this 372 once you approach lean, it doesn't change much due to the blasted coil. Bad idea on Husky's part.
 
Take your rev limited coil and throw it in the trash., replace with non rev limited coil, muffler mod, set to 13,800 and leat the dog eat. Just IMO and i have three 372's
 
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Calling Ben Walker

Hi Ben. I need a confirmation on the non-limiting 372 coil. It appears that Husqvarna changed coils according to the IPLs after October 2001. The original coil pack # is 503 96 24-05. After that time production changed to a #537 16 22-01. I believe I had read in a thread a while back that there was also a difference in color. The non-limiting coils were black and the limiting ones blue. Is this info correct? Appreciate your feedback. How is your daughter doing?:cheers:
 
Hi Ben. I need a confirmation on the non-limiting 372 coil. It appears that Husqvarna changed coils according to the IPLs after October 2001. The original coil pack # is 503 96 24-05. After that time production changed to a #537 16 22-01. I believe I had read in a thread a while back that there was also a difference in color. The non-limiting coils were black and the limiting ones blue. Is this info correct? Appreciate your feedback. How is your daughter doing?
There are multiple part numbers for non revlimited Husky coils. All the non revlimited coils are black, but there is also some that are rev limited that are black. Confusing, I know.
I have a 04 model 372 XPG that came with a non rev limited coil, so I dont know when the cut off date was. I would guess sometime during 04.

Daughters doing great, except for the fact she keeps us up all night.
 
I concur with PBtree about adj. the high in increments with the saw shut down.
If I can, when I do the Low speed I turn up the idle to where the chain starts to turn, then I can see as well as hear the highest rpm on the low circuit, then I back the L out for a richer setting, then readjust idle so chain doesn't turn.
It's amazing how efficient these lil carbs are when you think about it.
John
 
How difficult is the coil to change on a 372 and what kind of cost would you expect to pay?

Is the 346 the same deal also, or did they avoid the limiting coil on this one?
 
Daughters doing great, except for the fact she keeps us up all night.


I love my kids but I remember how cute they are at 2 am when they won't stop screaming.

I guess all in all it would be a blessing to get up in the middle of the night after the fight you all had.




ok saws

I strictly tune by ear because a. I don't have a tach and b. it would do me no good what so ever because I only have one saw that is still stock.

when I tune, I will hold the saw WOT, go to idle give the H a tweak and then WOT again, the final test is in wood. I know how close I am to what I want to be by how easily the saw clears out of the 4 stroke and starts making power.

Buck
 
How difficult is the coil to change on a 372 and what kind of cost would you expect to pay?

Is the 346 the same deal also, or did they avoid the limiting coil on this one?
The coil is easy to change out. All you need is one of the allen wrenchs that came with the saw and a business card. Remove the starter cover, unplug the spark plug and ground, take out two allen bolts. Then take the new coil, bolt it up, place the business card between the fly wheel and coil for clearance, tighten the bolts down, plug the wires, put on the starter cover and your good to go.
My dealer has a stash of used coils that he sells for I believe $25.
The 346 isnt rev limited to the best of my knowledge.

I guess all in all it would be a blessing to get up in the middle of the night after the fight you all had.
Got that right, Buck.
 
Buck, Urb, Ben,

Thanks for the advice. I may look into a coil if I can find one cheap. My local probably has some old bones I can dig through.
 
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