Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Notice the divider in the filter base? Get that out.
The whole thing or just the bottom. What aboutthe divider in the carb?
Ok I will gut it.
In the trimming of the piston skirt on the intake side that spike60 talks about in the video. What are the advantages of that. And would it be recommended on a 51.4 mm cylinder. I want to know too.
as long as the ring lands are not all beat to death (too much clearance) the pin bores aren't blown out and the skirts still have some taper left...all day o that piston...Ok well now that I'm discouraged, they came with one piston I measuredbit and it's the one for the 51.4 cylinder. However I'm not sure if it's useable, it looks like someone took sandpaper to the exhaust side, even if lightly, and the intake has some streaks that while not deep can still barely be felt with my fingernail.
Would you all reuse it or bite the bullet and order an expensive oem piston and do a little port work on the cylinder.View attachment 468104
what i meant was, I don't expect you to give away what you work so hard for and spend so much to gain for free. So you are saying to get more gains I should widen and shape the transfers.Good sir, I don't have any secrets.
When I do a XPW jug it takes me about 6 hours just to do the grinding.
If you can look at a 50mm jug next to the XPW jug, you can see that the transfer ports are far smaller on the 51.4mm jug.
It's actually designed for a cut off saw instead of a chainsaw.
I get it, change one thing you have to change something else. I really need to read up on how to port. Try to understand how to read a degree wheel. What are desirable numbers, And why. Also learn the terminology. Like blowdown for example, what is it and why is it important. I see a lot of timing numbers thrown around on this site without a lot of explanation.
I understand that alot of port work is trial and error and varies by person. What one is looking for and satisfied in gains with could be completely different to someone else.
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