372xp stalling issues; anyone know anything about this saw!? :-)

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drgnarr

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Question...
I bought a new to me 372xp and ran it for the first time today. Fresh gas and oil. Idles just fine. Throttle response is just fine. Cuts like a beast. The problem is when I come out of a cut and let of the gas the saw is stalling.

Supposedly the carb is new, new piston & rings, new crank bearing and seals, new air filter, new plug. 150lbs compression. All stated above does look new.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
i cant tell ya off the top of my head right now but i would just say play with it till she dose not stall . dont lean her out to much . owners manual would be a place to look lol .
 
Last edited:
With new rings you will want to run it a little rich for a few tanks until they seat. Scott 08f150 has a really good tuning video for reference
 
With new rings you will want to run it a little rich for a few tanks until they seat. Scott 08f150 has a really good tuning video for reference

you mean this one

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/2HLpx5mqvW8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Try turning the low in until it want to die when you pull the throttle, then back out until it accelerates good. If that doesn't help then lean the high out a bit. Also if the idle speed is to low it would cause it to die. Another thing would be weak clutch springs, if the clutch hangs up all it will die. Steve
 
This may sound dumb but I have a husky 41, 50 special, stihl 280, jonsered 630 and now this 372xp and I can definitely tune by ear all but the 372xp. The 4 strokin is very definitive with all the saws except this damn 372xp; is it just me? I mean I can hear it, very slightly, but its definitely not as pronounced as the other saws that I own. What's up with that?
 
you mean this one

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/2HLpx5mqvW8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

What is the tool for RPM you using ?
And what is a good low rpm to get and a high Rpm ?
 
What is the tool for RPM you using ?
And what is a good low rpm to get and a high Rpm ?

I do believe that's a Fast-Tach, found here: Design Technology, Inc., Home of the Tiny-Tach - More Tachometers.

They can be a little fiddly -- sometimes the battery will get dislodged. Jamming a folded business card or collapsed spark plug box behind the battery helps it stay in place. They're 85 dollars and if they get too broken, we've always had decent luck with their customer service department.

We shoot for idles around 2600-2800 rpm and keep our highs a little modest, at about 11,600.

I've found that with our 372xp X torq saws, I usually mess with the t screw first, until it sounds like a saw. From there, I'll adjust the low and high screws.
 
This may sound dumb but I have a husky 41, 50 special, stihl 280, jonsered 630 and now this 372xp and I can definitely tune by ear all but the 372xp. The 4 strokin is very definitive with all the saws except this damn 372xp; is it just me? I mean I can hear it, very slightly, but its definitely not as pronounced as the other saws that I own. What's up with that?

The concern would be that it's not rich at all, but lean, and bumping the limiter, not really 4 stroking. Do you have a tach? If so tune it to 12.5 for a few tanks, then lean it out. If no tach, keep turning the h jet ccw until it is definitely 4 stroking (smoky) and go from there
 
What is the tool for RPM you using ?
And what is a good low rpm to get and a high Rpm ?

yep,, its a fast tach,,,,, I set my low side rpm just below clutch engagement,,, high side each saw is different,,, I like mine at 500 below max which usually always will give it a good 4 stroke
 
my 372 is 4 stroking out at 13500

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/10aUUxoPl18" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

and this one is stroking at 13900,,, so as you an see all saws are different

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/0DppGwFHYyg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
my 372 is 4 stroking out at 13500

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/10aUUxoPl18" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

and this one is stroking at 13900,,, so as you an see all saws are different

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/0DppGwFHYyg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

That thing rips!
 
I completely understand what you mean about tunning these 372's buy ear, I got half a dozen saws and can tune all of them buy ear, but for what ever reason I can't get my 372 right by ear, so I went and found a 48" fire burnt log took my trusty bar wrench and a small tuning screw driver then I burried her 28" bar and started tuning these saws can be finicky so go easy, but it works.
One thing that wasn't is tank venting, easiest way to tell is when she stumbles try to keep her alive and crack the gas cap might want to get a buddy to help on this one, if it makes no difference whether the cap is cracked or not the vent is working, if how ever the minute the cap is cracked she comes alive again then you are literally vacum locking the gas tank my 372 has this issue I solved it with a new gas cap and I leave as loose as possible, the appropriate fix is to replace the vent, this is some thing i have never done successfully. I don't know that it can be replaced there is a tube vent for a Stihl 039, I guess a guy could drill a small hole in the top of the tank just big enough to push one of these tube style vents in I haven't tried that yet at the moment it is just a idea. the other solution is to ask around here for instructions on the removal and replacement of husky brass tank vents.
 

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