Jeff Hunt
New Member
I just found this site through a link listed on ebay and can't believe I haven't found it before now. I have alot to say and it will be diffficult to try to keep it short and sweet, but I'll try.
I have been reading some old posts with great interest about folks souping up saws, especially the claims of increased life. I've been working on saws for the past ten years doing almost everything myself because by the time I take it somewhere to get it fixed, I could have already done it myself and thus I do.
We started out running 394s and had 6 total, 3 low-tops 3 highs. These saws ran relatively forever. The biggest problem being the plastic intake manifolds of which I've probably went through a bushel basket of them along with nearly as many needle valves. I still have 3 of these saws that run, albiet from various levels of rebuilds. Four of the 6 ran 6+ years in various levels of service without any major work. One of the other two broke a piston when almost new, re-jugged and ran it nearly 9 years. Only other bad thing I can say about them is they can be tough to start when hot when they get a little age on them and everything isn't up to snuff and that along with weight is the reason we went to smaller saws.
When the 371s came out we bought one and found out that they were junk. Re-jugged it once because it was almost new and then gave up on them when it ate the crank bearings again fairly quickly. Everything about this saw sucked. Not enough power for our use anyway.
Started using 288s at the request of the feller we had at the time and got to learn again how great the 394s are. Had five of them. Run 'em a few months, re-ring 'em. run 'em a few more and they'd generally either eat the crank bearings or the cases would be busted up too bad to justify doing anything with them. Two piece ignition is a big headache(wires) along with being a bear to work on. I have none of these saws that run now. I sold the last one I had after its re-ring.
When the 385s came out, I had very high hopes for them. Well...... I, along with everyone else I know that runs them has had big problems with them. First one I had with very low serial number had the crank bearings go after about 2 months. I didn't let it eat the cages so Husky paid my saw guy to rebuild it completely, even a new crank since he busted it with the nose off with the spreader. This saw just ate the bearings a couple of weeks ago and lasted far longer on the rebuild than new. Second one I bought lasted about 2 months again, this time I let it grenade so I could get a new saw, and did. Husky gave me a new one which I made sure was a much higher serial number. Want to guess how long it ran before the bearings started grinding in it? Just this week it started and I took it out of service since I plan on making one good one out of the two since the newest saw's right side case is busted behind the flywheel. Other problems with these saws is that the air filter cover will weld itself to the top cover of the saw. Also, the air injection does not work at all with the filter needing to be cleaned 2-3 times a week compared once or twice a month for the 394s. I also hate those see-through tanks which aren't see-through for long and crack if you drop a feather on them. Hundred bucks a pop and I've already had to buy two, and I've never had to buy a tank for any saw except for a 2077 that got run over by the pickup. I also have along with the 2077, a 2071, and a 268.
Basically what I would like to know is how can these saws be souped up to be made to run as much better as some claim and hold up any time at all, let alone longer than a stock one? I am very interested, but I am also skeptical. From my experience with crank bearing failures, it seems any kind of work like this is going to have to be accompanied by replacing the bearings, probably with something much better than the factory puts in. If I can spend a couple of hundred bucks to make a 385 run like a 394 or better and last like one too, I would consider it a bargain to say the least.
My own suspicion is that the bearing problems along with the air cleaner cover welding itself to the saw would indicate a balance problem with the saw itself. Is this adressed when the work is done? The fact that the air injection in the 385s is non-functional may also be a factor as far as longevity is concerned. I try to keep my saws very clean and most look quite good for their age. It is difficult to keep a saw clean though when the filter gets plugged as quick as they do. I think the 288s stayed cleaner than the 385s and they didn't have it. Any suggestions on these issues?
Well so much for making it short. Any suggestions as to anything I have said here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I have been reading some old posts with great interest about folks souping up saws, especially the claims of increased life. I've been working on saws for the past ten years doing almost everything myself because by the time I take it somewhere to get it fixed, I could have already done it myself and thus I do.
We started out running 394s and had 6 total, 3 low-tops 3 highs. These saws ran relatively forever. The biggest problem being the plastic intake manifolds of which I've probably went through a bushel basket of them along with nearly as many needle valves. I still have 3 of these saws that run, albiet from various levels of rebuilds. Four of the 6 ran 6+ years in various levels of service without any major work. One of the other two broke a piston when almost new, re-jugged and ran it nearly 9 years. Only other bad thing I can say about them is they can be tough to start when hot when they get a little age on them and everything isn't up to snuff and that along with weight is the reason we went to smaller saws.
When the 371s came out we bought one and found out that they were junk. Re-jugged it once because it was almost new and then gave up on them when it ate the crank bearings again fairly quickly. Everything about this saw sucked. Not enough power for our use anyway.
Started using 288s at the request of the feller we had at the time and got to learn again how great the 394s are. Had five of them. Run 'em a few months, re-ring 'em. run 'em a few more and they'd generally either eat the crank bearings or the cases would be busted up too bad to justify doing anything with them. Two piece ignition is a big headache(wires) along with being a bear to work on. I have none of these saws that run now. I sold the last one I had after its re-ring.
When the 385s came out, I had very high hopes for them. Well...... I, along with everyone else I know that runs them has had big problems with them. First one I had with very low serial number had the crank bearings go after about 2 months. I didn't let it eat the cages so Husky paid my saw guy to rebuild it completely, even a new crank since he busted it with the nose off with the spreader. This saw just ate the bearings a couple of weeks ago and lasted far longer on the rebuild than new. Second one I bought lasted about 2 months again, this time I let it grenade so I could get a new saw, and did. Husky gave me a new one which I made sure was a much higher serial number. Want to guess how long it ran before the bearings started grinding in it? Just this week it started and I took it out of service since I plan on making one good one out of the two since the newest saw's right side case is busted behind the flywheel. Other problems with these saws is that the air filter cover will weld itself to the top cover of the saw. Also, the air injection does not work at all with the filter needing to be cleaned 2-3 times a week compared once or twice a month for the 394s. I also hate those see-through tanks which aren't see-through for long and crack if you drop a feather on them. Hundred bucks a pop and I've already had to buy two, and I've never had to buy a tank for any saw except for a 2077 that got run over by the pickup. I also have along with the 2077, a 2071, and a 268.
Basically what I would like to know is how can these saws be souped up to be made to run as much better as some claim and hold up any time at all, let alone longer than a stock one? I am very interested, but I am also skeptical. From my experience with crank bearing failures, it seems any kind of work like this is going to have to be accompanied by replacing the bearings, probably with something much better than the factory puts in. If I can spend a couple of hundred bucks to make a 385 run like a 394 or better and last like one too, I would consider it a bargain to say the least.
My own suspicion is that the bearing problems along with the air cleaner cover welding itself to the saw would indicate a balance problem with the saw itself. Is this adressed when the work is done? The fact that the air injection in the 385s is non-functional may also be a factor as far as longevity is concerned. I try to keep my saws very clean and most look quite good for their age. It is difficult to keep a saw clean though when the filter gets plugged as quick as they do. I think the 288s stayed cleaner than the 385s and they didn't have it. Any suggestions on these issues?
Well so much for making it short. Any suggestions as to anything I have said here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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