395 and 660 video

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The 660 had an 8 pin on it in the first video. I forgot I put it on it with the 13" bar yesterday. I like the 7 for not having to be light handed with it at all. I don't have another 8 pin to put on it and keep one on the 660. I need to get a couple in my next order.
 
That kinda sucks that you seem to be disappointed with the 395. I guess thats why Im spending countless hours reading about my 460's replacement. Buyers remoarse is a #####...
 
That kinda sucks that you seem to be disappointed with the 395. I guess thats why Im spending countless hours reading about my 460's replacement. Buyers remoarse is a #####...

i hate to be the first to break the news to you but this is not a replacement for the ms460. once youve been there ,well theres no going back....
 
its a great saw but I really want a 390xp. Plus mine is stock as I dont know if I like the idea of modding my saw. But your not the 1st to tell me that. Im sure ill be in mikes boat soon enough...
 
I don't like the 460s. I've had 2 of them and was glad to see them go. The 372/2171 is a much better fit for me. A 390 is a much nice overall package. Unless milling I would take a 390 if I was buying new.
 
3/8"x8x28" full comp chisel. If they are not normally going used with a 36" bar then there is no reason to have a 7 on those saws.

Hard to test a 395 in small wood with a 7 on the rim.

In the small wood you need to equalize the load range better to get a more accurate test.

395s have the power but the 660 is more durable and in my opinion pleasent to use with 36" or less bar length.

Unless you need to cut a lot of 36"+ trees I would keep the 660, for the clutch alone.

I dont believe I would say a 660 is more durable. Maybee as durable. From what Ive read, people out west say the Husky's are more durable.......
 
The 395 should be at least as good as the 660 with some work.
You can raise the Ex a little without hurting torque.
They need some more blowdown than what they provide stock.

My 395 is running the BB kit but would be close/same as the OEM.
This is in "Yellowbox", one of our hardest hardwoods.


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I must get my butt into gear and finish of my other 395 running the OEM barrel and 2100 piston for a comparison.
 
It runs better than stock but not what that 660 does. I don't know what the guy does to them but it's strong. I might go back into it and raise the exhaust .030" or so. That should give it more blowdown and maybe help it out some. The squish is still almost .030" with no gasket. It really needs to be machined down to get the squish just right.
 
It runs better than stock but not what that 660 does. I don't know what the guy does to them but it's strong. I might go back into it and raise the exhaust .030" or so. That should give it more blowdown and maybe help it out some. The squish is still almost .030" with no gasket. It really needs to be machined down to get the squish just right.

Just don't go too far. I'm 164° on the Ex which you would think was a little high but worked out fine and gave me 20° blowdown.

If you don't want to try Degreeing, try a port map.

Yeah reducing that .030 would help a tad. I'm running 185psi.

Opened windows and lowers up?
 
I degreed the 2171. I'll check this one in a few minutes and see exactly where it's after I lowered the squish.
 
It was at 106 and 123. I raised the exhaust to 103 so now it has 20 degrees of blowdown. I didn't get to run it since it got dark on me.
 
Well I just now caught this thread and I must say that the 395 looked about normal for stock. I have a 20 red oak log that I did some testing in a few months back and I will just say that I never had the chance to time my 395 stock. But had a 066 that was stock that ran 15 seconds and 9 seconds after being ported. My 395 turned out a little stronger and came through at about 7 seconds. My ported 7900 pulled 9 seconds. But I must mention that the rings were not seated on the ported 066 as it had new rings and no gas run through them. I think I may still have the vids not sure. Bottom line is that I figure the 395 will wake up big time after some port work and dropping squish. Mine was 195# of compression last time I checked it.
 
This is a good thread!!!


As far as reading plugs goes....unless the saw has been killed in the cut at WOT, reading the plug is a waste of time. If you let the saw idle the plug will change color as it cools. Plug reading is an art, and best done with a Coddington magnifier. For most folks tuning to the rich side of the two-four break is a much better method.
 
This is a good thread!!!


As far as reading plugs goes....unless the saw has been killed in the cut at WOT, reading the plug is a waste of time. If you let the saw idle the plug will change color as it cools. Plug reading is an art, and best done with a Coddington magnifier. For most folks tuning to the rich side of the two-four break is a much better method.

Yep, I always just used to plug color as kinda secondary insurance for my ears. Like you said, you have to have a new plug to test. Start the saw WOT and kill it WOT under load. Then get the glass out and see if you can find the color ring. I dont know this, but looks like the 2 stroke oil would have an effect on the plug color.?.
 
Hillbilly, is this your saw? I seen this vid the other night, looks to be the same background?

[video=youtube;F3k0sEUsqOA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3k0sEUsqOA[/video]
 
Hillbilly, is this your saw? I seen this vid the other night, looks to be the same background?

[video=youtube;F3k0sEUsqOA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3k0sEUsqOA[/video]

Yes sir, Frank it is. As Mike said I did come over that day. We had a great time! Ya know that saw was less than a second behind the 660! I tell ya, that 2171 is really comin to life. Thats all Im gonna say as I dont wanna jack Mikes thread. I plan on doin a couple threads early next week.....one with a 870 Remington tactical shotgun too!! hahaha......
 
The 395 has a muffler mod and the squish tightened. No timing changes or anything. I did widen the ports what little you could go. It seems like you can just keep leaning on it and it stays the same rpms. It's just not a high rpm say like the 660 is.

you would have to change the timing if your wanting more rpm out of it.depends on what you plan to use it for. if it were a milling saw id stay where its at,if a tree droppere and topper id get a few more rrr's out of it.

That 395 should have much more in it. My last one just sound like a completely different animal then yours. I used a meteor, slightly wider skirts, and popup piston, I'm sure that helps allot, I'm around 195psi, a little higher then I would like on that saw, but it seems to be doing fine.

Keep in mine that the chain on this was rocked out just before this vid, and I just did a quick hand file, it was starting to get dark.

This is running 36" full comp oregon chain, 8pin.

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