395XP gets hot and stops

[woodshop]

My one year old Husky 395XP I use mostly for milling quit on me last week halfway down a log. Right before it stopped it did that few seconds of high revving like when a saw is running out of gas, only the tank was 3/4 full. Wouldn't restart. Backed out of log, pulled plug, looked fine, had spark. Let it cool down for about 30 minutes, and then it started up and ran fine for two cuts before same thing happened. Second or two of high rev like it was running out of gas, then quit and wouldn't re-start till it cooled down. Took home, took it apart and blew it clean with compressed air, put new fuel filter in tank. Next week milling, down an 8 ft log twice fine, and then third slice after it got nice and hot, same thing, over rev, then stop, won't start. Did a quick search in archives for 395 with this problem, didn't find. Happens only when it's working hard running down a log milling. Once cooled down, it starts fine, idles fine, runs fine, has plenty of power etc. I never winterized it (opened that plastic slot from cylinder to carb area), just left it as came when got it new.

Anybody have any ideas? ... vapor lock? Electronics? I figure the over revving like its starving for gas right before it dies and won't restart is a good clue, just don't know enough about saws to know what it points too. Any help from those that do would be appreciated.

 

[shucksters]

If it's one year old- isn't it under warranty?

 

[carvinmark]

395xp

First thing I'd do is pull the muffler off and look at the piston for any damage. Sounds like it is leaning out. Very expensive saw...Don't run it anymore till you get to the bottom of this situation, Maby take it in ? Just my opinion, I have been wrong befor. Good luck

 

[ShoerFast]

The emmissions waranty is good for 2 years, and running lean is emmissions related.

As I truly dont know anything about that saw, like how its goverend (over-rev protected) but anything that runs hot enought to kill may have done some damage, eg: piston/rings.

Is there a chance that the impaulse line or tank vent is intermetely blocking?

Both "L" and "H" are needed for WOT , if there was a worpage or intermitent internal leak in the carb, could this give your an intermitent lean down?

Kevin

 

[a_lopa]

the coil is shot

 

[Gypo Logger]

I'm not taking exception to the possibility of the coil being shot, but if it is and acting up only when the saw is warmed up, why would it rev so high as though it were lean? I believe a 272 ciol will fit in a 395. It's worth a try to change coils if for no other reason to eliminate that probability.
My gut feeling is that it's too lean and the piston may have suffered some scoring. Time for a ring job and some 32:1 .
John

 

[cuttinscott]

Tank is not VENTING properly. Next time this happens loosen the gas cap and see if it will restart.

Scott

 

[Gypo Logger]

Tank vent is a good starting point too as Scott mentioned. Glad I thought of it. lol
When the saw is acting up loosen the gas cap and see if that smartens it up.
John

 

[woodshop]

thanks Gypo, Scott, all... good input. I like the tank venting avenue, if only because it might be an easy fix. Where does it vent anyway? Gas cap? I can't wait to run it again and check if that is the problem, but won't be able to get out milling for couple weeks now. Dang. How much is a coil for one of those things?... like he said, I could swap it out if only to eliminate that as the culprit. Are they easy to change out? If it is the coil though, why would it run lean for a second or two right before it quits, as if it's running out of gas, didn't think a weak spark could do that, but don't know enough about them.

As for 32:1... close, I've run 36:1 in this 395 since I baught it.

thanks for the input, lots of experience on this forum.

 

[chainless]

Hello woodshop. I have the same saw (395xp) that has the same problem as yours. I'm using it on a mill. The saw is not very old. It would have been covered by warranty but the Husky shop took off the muffler and saw scoring on the piston. Piston scoring is not covered under warranty. I changed the piston and rings myself. It ran fine for one log and then began racing once again and then shutdown. I was wondering what you found out about your saw before I bust mine down again.

 

[ciscoguy01]

Huh?

Hello woodshop. I have the same saw (395xp) that has the same problem as yours. I'm using it on a mill. The saw is not very old. It would have been covered by warranty but the Husky shop took off the muffler and saw scoring on the piston. Piston scoring is not covered under warranty. I changed the piston and rings myself. It ran fine for one log and then began racing once again and then shutdown. I was wondering what you found out about your saw before I bust mine down again.

Piston scoring is not covered? What the hell kinda deal is that crap? That's like a bumper to bumper saying that a transmission isn't covered. That's it, I'm done with husky's now. Stihl all the way. Couple things, I'd like to know what the first 395's problem was, and, could it possibly be something in the carb? I.e. a spring. When it gets hot, they open up, cold they contract. I used to have an exact problem like this and ended up being one of the older ignition modules. Lemme know what you find. Also, sorry to hear your having problems with a thousand dollar saw dude. That really sucks. But I think it sucks more that your dealer won't go good for a scored piston after you spent a thousand dollars on a saw.

 

[blis]

Hello woodshop. I have the same saw (395xp) that has the same problem as yours. I'm using it on a mill. The saw is not very old. It would have been covered by warranty but the Husky shop took off the muffler and saw scoring on the piston. Piston scoring is not covered under warranty. I changed the piston and rings myself. It ran fine for one log and then began racing once again and then shutdown. I was wondering what you found out about your saw before I bust mine down again.

the dealer must be bull????ting...

 

[Justsaws]

If your saw is racing look for air leaks anywhere there is a hose, seal, and gasket. Check fastners and make sure linkages are functioning. If the saw is on a mill make sure the fuel filter is in the bottom side of the tank and not hung up half way down.

 

[aquan8tor]

thanks Gypo, Scott, all... good input. I like the tank venting avenue, if only because it might be an easy fix. Where does it vent anyway? Gas cap? I can't wait to run it again and check if that is the problem, but won't be able to get out milling for couple weeks now. Dang.



To locate the gas vent, (if its still in the same spot--I have a '97 394XP) look at the back of the saw handle looking forward. It is on the right hand--(clutch side) of saw almost directly under and to the right of the carb, right behind the anti-vibe spring mount thing. That's the only part of my saw that I haven't done b/c it is a pain to get to, unless I'm reading the repair manual wrong. You have to remove the carb to get to it. Eventually I'm going to need to do it, as the last time I used it, I milled a bunch of locust, and really got it full of dust. I stuck a little screwdriver in there & knocked it off--it kept stalling before I thought to look at the vent---it was COVERED. I'm going to smooth out the intake a teeny bit on it, and rebuild the carb, all at the same time I'll do the vent. Good luck, and I hope that's all it is for you.


FWIW, I've also thought about changing the filter out to a K&N style filter. I got on K&N's website---they don't really have anything that is a direct replacement, so I thought about perhaps using the neck from a stock filter as a "gasket", then using a hose clamp over top of that with the K&N filter. Beats spending $25 or so on a new filter frequently---buy it once and clean it when you need to. And, cleaner air with the oiled filter. Maybe it would clog too fast. Just a thought.

 

[dustytools]

I dont know it this is even a comparison or not but here goes anyway. I had the same problem with a 4-stroke engine on one of my mortar mixers about a couple months ago. The coil was getting hot and shutting it down. Replaced the coil and havent had any more problems. Sorry to hear about your saw Woodshop. Keep us posted.

 

[Timbercutter]

the coil is shot

I would agree, I've had smaller huskys(281)(272) do the same thing and a new coil fixed them..They ran fine when they were cool,but as soon as they got hot they would rev up,snap,pop, or just shut off sometimes they would start back sometimes never hit again till the coil was replaced.

 

[B_Turner]

I understand about the getting hot and dying thing with a bad coil, but what is the mechanism of how a bad coil makes the saw rev up?

 

[Freakingstang]

Just remember, all the 3 series coils are lifetime warrenty through husky....

 

[oldsaw]

I had a bit of a problem with a floating filter on my 066. Put two stainless steel (5/16" I think) washers on the fuel line right above the filter. No problems since.

"Racing" kind of takes out the coil in my limited opinion, but I haven't had one go bad. I would lose power and die half way into a cut as well, but didn't notice any racing. However, you will want to pull the muffler and take a peek anyway, as mentioned. 1 year is awful new for a coil, but they can be "one of those things".

Mark

 

[hobby climber]

Maybe check to see if you have a very small hole,crack or split in the fuel line. You may be getting to much air in the carb. That would explain why it sounds like its running out of fuel,(rich). This happened to me a few years back and all I did was replace the line. The only way to tell is to just replace it. Its cheap & simple, then you can eliminate that possibility! HC