5 saws not passing oil to chain HELP PLEASE

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bar studs. more then likely stripped and pulling out, not enough to visually see them, but it don't take much, even with yer screwdriver you can see its hitting on one of them and not the surface.

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and then ^^ that pick shows the bar is hitting the studs as there are witness marks on the stud flange.

Further, these are poly cases right?, they strip out all the damned time, the nuts will still get tight but it will draw the stud out of the case, eventually it will spin free and be a total mess, but in the mean time you're not getting a good seal between the bar and the case, so oil is weeping behind the bar
I 've had those issues with the MS170 /MS180 before .
If the threads are lightly damaged then the blue colored thread lock agent ( Loctite ) will solve the issue .Otherwise the
"Oversize Collar Screw "
1123 664 2405 DG 9 is needed to replace the ordinary stud
( Technical Reference Guide page 78 ) .
 
its all that or the supply tube (if it has one) is leaking which happens, especially if you've exposed it to alcohol or various gnarly cleaning agents they harden and either crack or get loose
It's quite common at the MS170/MS180 for the line to get slightly unplugged directly beneath the oiler ( underneath the handle at the bottom part of the saw ).
And no oil comes through,but air bubbles.And weird thing ,usually there's no oil leaking underneath the saw.
 
also the shiny clean spot around the oil groove is a sign of oil bypassing.
Ok but the 170 is BRAND NEW neighbor and no I assure you those studs are flush on the 170. There were lots of air bubbles on that 170 today as I ran it air bubbles present allot in the oil coming out. They weren't there 2 days ago
 
late to the party , i ran into similar problem this past summer. checked everything multiple times. what it came down to for me was the chain it self 3/8 .050 couple different brands in fact. switch to 3/8 .063 and also some 3/8 .058 and the problem went away
note all bars have oil ports opened up and lead groves to same. all pumps working the bars were all forester, there is a posasibilty of something there but dimensions all seemed ok.
 
Ok but the 170 is BRAND NEW neighbor and no I assure you those studs are flush on the 170. There were lots of air bubbles on that 170 today as I ran it air bubbles present allot in the oil coming out. They weren't there 2 days ago
Check the oil line underneath the saw ,where it plugs to the clutch side ( oiler ) .Lift the saw upside down and try to see between the handle part and saw housing.
If you notice the round "grommet"
of the line not being flush with the saw housing ,then it got unplugged .Happens even to brand new saws.
Bubbles coming out of the oil port is a strong indication of that.
 
Check the oil line underneath the saw ,where it plugs to the clutch side ( oiler ) .Lift the saw upside down and try to see between the handle part and saw housing.
If you notice the round "grommet"
of the line not being flush with the saw housing ,then it got unplugged .Happens even to brand new saws.
I use seal all to seal my tubes in and it ain't leaking.
 
I did check that why I told u it ain't leaking. I'm gonna replace a pump on one, and do another new oem oil tube on another see what transpires.
Air bubbles coming out of the oil port ( regarding the 017/018/MS170 and MS180 ) usually means that 95% chance is an oil hose/line issue.
The rest 5% is a faulty or missing plug ( the orange one at left side ,beneath the muffler ) .
 
Air bubbles coming out of the oil port ( regarding the 017/018/MS170 and MS180 ) usually means that 95% is an oil hose/line issue.
The rest 5% is a faulty or missing plug ( the orange one at left side ,beneath the muffler ) .
Ya just it's a brand new hose but that's why I'm just gonna order more. Maybe I got a bad batch or they sat out in my shop a few days. I'm gonna pressure test the tanks again I guess.
 
How about taking the oil cap loose and spraying carb or brake cleaner with a straw through the oiler hole in the clutch side to make sure the pickup screen in the tank isn't plugged.
 
I have a couple questions about the forester bar.
Is it a multi fit bar?
Does the top chain adjuster hole lead to the bar oil slot?
If so jam something in the top adjuster hole to seal it up, your bar oil is leaking out through it.

I've had this issue before. I made a rubber plug out of 5/16 fuel line to seal up the unused adjuster hole and all was well.
 
No it won’t- steel bar with not bend and seal against case if flange is stud sticking out-I repair those stud issues once a month from Bubba using Johnson bar on nuts And backing out stud.
but his studs seem to be flush, so that may not be issue.

Translation of above?

Case is flat, bar is flat, tighten bar to case. Do YOU have a gap there?
 
I am trying to picture using seal all, not sure that it would do anything.
smear enough on there and it could plug the whole works up.
But also, there is zero pressure in the oiler lines, its purely moving oil form a to b, so any kind of sealant or clamp is not only a waste of time, but likely to cause other issues.
 
Someone Prank your mech and put cellophane over the oil holes? College days we used to do that to battery terminals to buddies; they tried swapping my plug wires around, but I caught that in about 10-seconds. Wood chip Trash between bar/ mount will stop oil from making it to the bar groove?


Well kind of it is- 5 saws, same mechanic, same problem. :lol:
What happens if you take chains and bars off the saws, start and run them WOT with the clutch covers off and have someone video the oil leaving the galleries that feed the bars?
 
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