550XP - .325 vs 3/8

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MarkEagleUSA

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I'm thinking of changing my 550XP 16" from .325 to 3/8 chain. Is there a compelling reason to use .325 on the 550? Would there be much of a performance hit going from 20LPX to 72LGX?

If I do the swap I need a 3/8 small rim sprocket and a Husky small mount bar (HT280), correct?
 
The 550xp will be a tad quicker with 3/8" on a 16". Plus it makes your sharpening setup faster running also on your 562xp.
 
On my slightly modified MS260 with 16" bar I use .325 chain and a 8 pin sprocket. It is FAST!
On my 034 super I use an 18" bar with .325 chain and the 8 pin sprocket and it cuts faster than 3/8 chain.
 
On my slightly modified MS260 with 16" bar I use .325 chain and a 8 pin sprocket. It is FAST!
On my 034 super I use an 18" bar with .325 chain and the 8 pin sprocket and it cuts faster than 3/8 chain.

I don't doubt that at all. Looking at some past posts on the subject, I see mileage can vary.
 
One more thing... can someone tell me what the proper clutch tools are for the 550 and 562 (or the simple man's way to get them off)?
 
I've got a custom tool made by Tzed250 I use with a mild cordless impact. Bailey's may have something. I shy away from piston stops especially metal. You could always use some 1/4" rope in the plug hole and a brass punch.
 
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I've got a custom tool made by Tzed250 I use with a mild cordless impact. Bailey's may have something.
None of the ones I find online specifically state 550 or 562 so I'm hesitant to buy. Do the 2 saws use the same tool?

I shy away from piston stops especially metal. You could always use some 1/4" rope in the plug hole and a brass punch.
I've always used rope but just recently got a couple of plastic stops so I've got that end covered.
 
I'm thinking of changing my 550XP 16" from .325 to 3/8 chain. Is there a compelling reason to use .325 on the 550? Would there be much of a performance hit going from 20LPX to 72LGX?

If I do the swap I need a 3/8 small rim sprocket and a Husky small mount bar (HT280), correct?

There is only one way to find out what suits your use - and remember to include .325x8 in your "tests"! :msp_wink:
 
None of the ones I find online specifically state 550 or 562 so I'm hesitant to buy. Do the 2 saws use the same tool?

I've always used rope but just recently got a couple of plastic stops so I've got that end covered.

My tool works on both, but it's shop made.
 
There is only one way to find out what suits your use - and remember to include .325x8 in your "tests"! :msp_wink:
I'm not looking at this from a performance standpoint; it's more a matter of convenience. One less file to carry around, one less part number to remember... stuff like that. I just want to make sure that making the switch won't be detrimental to the saw itself.
 
To get the clutch off, I use a screw driver, or cold chisel and hammer. Look at those small notches on the clutch and the arrows. Been doin it that way for many years.

I'm on the fence about .325 vs 3/8. I still like .325 on my smaller saws.
 
For the record , , , ,

I use a 16" Power Match bar and a 3/8" X .050" X 60DL Stihl RSC chain on my 550XP

I also use the same on m 545 and 346XP.

I have used them in big noodle and buried bucking cuts and they performed satisfactory.

If you press down hard on them you can tell they will slow down but if you let them cut on their own they cut very well.

The 3/8" stays sharp longer.

A real trip is Oregon CL on these. You will think you are cutting butter.
 
For the record , , , ,

I use a 16" Power Match bar and a 3/8" X .050" X 60DL Stihl RSC chain on my 550XP

I also use the same on m 545 and 346XP.

I have used them in big noodle and buried bucking cuts and they performed satisfactory.

If you press down hard on them you can tell they will slow down but if you let them cut on their own they cut very well.

The 3/8" stays sharp longer.

A real trip is Oregon CL on these. You will think you are cutting butter.

As always, there are only one way to find out what works best for you, with your saw, wood and other conditions! :givebeer:
 
I've run both .325" with a 7 and 8 pin rim plus 3/8", both on 18" bars on my 550XP. There is no question that these saws have the grunt to pull 3/8" chain with authority and I even have a 20" 3/8" bar for mine as well and it pulls that fine, even in Australian hardwood. I have always been a big fan of 3/8" over .325" on saws like my old 5100-S Dolmar and Stihl MS261 when other members have said they prefer .325".
I'm going to buck the trend a bit on this one too as I am running 3/8" at the moment as it stays sharper way longer in our timber than .325" but in clean green hardwood I actually prefer .325" on my 550XP over 3/8".
You really can't go wrong either way. As Sawtroll mentioned try all setups if you have the money but if not go 3/8" with a 7 pin rim or .325" with an 8 pin rim.
 
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