6 months with mx2t

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kf_tree

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i started running this saw around some time in april. it has seen nothing but mobil1 at 32-1. 395 piston.
 
it is not rust......just less deposit in the lighter area. i'm not sure why that is. the saw ran great. i had a spare jug and piston i've been polishing so i pulled the stock one off today to swap the other one on.
 
looks clean, but what is the skirt taper relative to the top (measure just below the rings opposite the transfer ports)? How many hours would you guess?
 
Lakeside53 said:
looks clean, but what is the skirt taper relative to the top (measure just below the rings opposite the transfer ports)? How many hours would you guess?

i do not have any measuring device's......i'm just a hammer and chisel kind of guy. there's probly been around 45 - 50 tanks of fuel through it.

heres a pic of the inside of the jug.....kind of interesting , the line you can see at the right of the exhaust port. it's from a tiny ridge at the edge of the exhaust port, kind of like a casting flaw or something that should have been polished out before assembly. it must have scratched the ring , but there is no lines on the piston. you can't even feel the line but it's visible.
 
DanManofStihl said:
How was the smoke at 30to 1 I run it at 40 to 1 and was thinking of changing it up.


that is one of the big difference's for me with synthetic.....very little smoke. when on your knee's flushing a stump you don't get that face full of crap that takes your breath away. i ran that 395 pretty rich too...11700- 12,000rpm.
 
DanManofStihl said:
So would you recomend this oil or which one is the best you have used.


i'd say i'm happy with it, if you look close at the jug you can still see some of the cross hatching, the piston is as clean as can be. plus the stuff does not smoke much. in the past i've used husky stihl and red max oil. i never had a problem with them, my saw's always lasted, then we lost a 357 and 385 in under a year. so i bought a tach and started running sythetic in all my saw's. just to see what the fuss is about and any extra insurance i can get. this is the first one i opened up thats been run on nothing but mobil 1.
 
In all of the oil discussions, and some arguments, here on AS, and other forums, I haven't seen anyone make a case against using the Mobil synthetic.
 
That's an interesting question. I was told not to break in four strokes with synthetic oil in the crankcase because the oil is so slippery that it prevents parts (rings) from seating properly. I'd think that after 45 tanks of fuel you'd want the cross-hatching to be gone, but maybe not?
 
Last edited:
Husky261 said:
Are you breaking the saws in with the synthetic also?


with in the past 6 months 6 new saws were broken in on synthetic . i've heard both side's of the arguement on this one and made my decision to break them in running syntheic. i know that 395 was a strong runner since in stock form it beat a pp395.
 
Your saw is too rich.
I always break in with synthetics, just dont baby it.
FWIW all pistons have taper form the top to the bottom. The pisotn is actually smaller on the dome end then the skirt end.
 
I used it for 1 year and it worked great no fouled plugs or seizures my compression on my saws is like new. I switched to mobil one because I got a good deal on 38 pints of it.
 
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