661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

[Trx250r180]

On the 084 and 088 I used it. I haven't tried on the shorter bars.

I have tried a few variations of the .404 ,dry fir is picky on chain for being grabby so that was my test wood ,normal square like i cut with was fast but jerky ,round at 10 degrees top plate ,20 side plate on the usg grinder (aggressive sideplate ) still grabby and tearing fibers too much ,10 degree top plate ,base slide /side plate set to zero was real smooth but slower ,gave the nicest finish also ,but the .404 seems faster than the 3/8 ,i think the wider kerf moves more material faster ,bigger dust chips are on the ground also ,on the alaska mill i do not get the jerkyness like i do with the norwood also with the powerhead set up high in the air ,so a more aggressive chain can be used on the alaska mill ,if look in the image it is up in the air on the square tube ,so a grabby chain makes the tube bounce and flex ,down low it is not as bad on the flex

 

[Moparmyway]

I also use the 6-sided files - Vallorbe brand. I've got a triangle one but haven't used it.

View attachment 429569
This model is similar to the Vallorbe.

Those double bevel files (pictured in your post) are the most easy to use and produce the best finish on all sizes of chain, they are my favorite square file.

 

[big t double]

I have tried a few variations of the .404 ,dry fir is picky on chain for being grabby so that was my test wood ,normal square like i cut with was fast but jerky ,round at 10 degrees top plate ,20 side plate on the usg grinder (aggressive sideplate ) still grabby and tearing fibers too much ,10 degree top plate ,base slide /side plate set to zero was real smooth but slower ,gave the nicest finish also ,but the .404 seems faster than the 3/8 ,i think the wider kerf moves more material faster ,bigger dust chips are on the ground also ,on the alaska mill i do not get the jerkyness like i do with the norwood also with the powerhead set up high in the air ,so a more aggressive chain can be used on the alaska mill ,if look in the image it is up in the air on the square tube ,so a grabby chain makes the tube bounce and flex ,down low it is not as bad on the flex View attachment 429570

that's a cool looking set up...im going to ask what im sure is a very stupid question...but what do you do with those big planks of wood. im sure theres a market for them but all I can imagine is like a fire place mantel. yes im stupid...sorry...I sell ope parts for a living, but this milling stuff is cool business to me.

 

[bwalker]

That is correct. Noodling is the easiest way to cut wood with a chainsaw. The next easiest is cross cutting (what they are designed for). The hardest way to cut wood is ripping (chainsaw milling).

Noodling is much tougher than crosas cutting IMO and IME

 

[bwalker]

It is a free world so you can waste your oil & money anyway you like, but preaching about it without even testing anything then quoting irrelevant material is the impossible thing to swallow, tests have been done verified by witnesses & since then it's been a waffle fest about anything & everything but some simple testing, I don't know where you have been hiding but modern 2 stroke race bikes can run at 60:1 recommended by the manufacturer, maybe it's a time warp thing not to notice! LOL
Thansk

One oem reccomends that ratio...KTM.
Like I said before, just because you can't wrap your mind around it doesn't meet its rubbish.
And I don't feel the need to prove anything to you.. get of your azz and do some research and you will find I am right.

 

[Hedgerow]

I know about them. My neighbor in Southern Oregon had one. Made board stock by the thousands of board feet. I used to see logging trucks go the wrong way up through our easement and another mile up to his property. He got logs by the truckload for milling. One time he had a huge 6 foot DBH Ponderosa pine delivered, and he sliced that thing up like it was pasta.

Good Lord, how wide was his band mill??!!

 

[Trx250r180]

that's a cool looking set up...im going to ask what im sure is a very stupid question...but what do you do with those big planks of wood. im sure theres a market for them but all I can imagine is like a fire place mantel. yes im stupid...sorry...I sell ope parts for a living, but this milling stuff is cool business to me.

if you look at the top of the square post ,there is a handle to raise and lower the powerhead on a threaded rod ,i will make the first pass to remove the bark chunk ,that will be firewood ,then i lower it 1.5 inches at a time to make 2x6 boards ,i can stack 2 or 3 slabs side by side also and cut several boards at a time ,but it seems to waste more wood doing that on the first couple cuts
this may help on hoe i cut the log up ,

first cut ,cut some slabs like this to make boards ,make as many slabs as can get from the log ,my first 3-4 passes above this one i make either 3/4 ,1 inch or 1.5 inches thick depending what i need , then when i get down to where i can make cants i go 5.5 inches ,i got 2 - 5.5 inch slabs from this log ,then i stand them up and make the 1.5 inch or 5.5 for 6x6's passes and end up with finished boards

 

[KenJax Tree]

I oem reccomends that ratio...KTM.
like I said before, just because you can't wrap your mind around it doesn't meet its rubbish.

When i got my KTM 250SX last year that told me to use this

I use 40:1

 

[bwalker]

It's a way to reduce compression during starting I believe.

That woukd be correct. The Honda CR-500 actually has two of these relief ports to facilitate starting. First thing I do when building a CR500 motor is to have cylinder bored till the relief ports are no more. Then I have the bore Nikisiled over the factory steel sleeve and then have it final honed and sized to a Wiseco forged piston. Add a Gorr GP porting job, a 39mm PwK and a fatty pipe and your knocking on the door of 70hp with monster torque.

 

[Trx250r180]

found a pic of what i turned those boards into ,was small porch off side entry to the house

made some 6x12's for the roof support also on that mill ,one on right is 16 feet long ,all free lumber off trees from the property .

 

[bwalker]

Hey-

Notice that every factory oil for saws is sae 20 wt. (aka "injector" oil). I think this is due to the carburetor setup at the factory. A heavy oil like k2 or 800T (sae 40wt) might cause a need to slightly richen the tuning to compensate for the change in specific gravity (density) of the fuel mix? It probably wouldn't be noticed.
http://www.racegas.com/article/26
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/77794/original/800_2T_Factory_Line_Off_Road_TDS_(GB).pdf?1388420010
http://www.echo-usa.com/getattachment/d5e66496-3079-4374-82c2-ad427eb044e2
http://www.maxima.co.jp/images/msds/2stroke/FormulaK2.pdf

Motul oil has higher specific gravity than typical factory oil (echo) and also higher than K2.
Factory must feel the lighter oil is adequate (for warranty at least)?

K2 has required no carb tuning changes vs other oils I have ran over several pieces of equipment.
The trend toward lower viscosity oils is driven by the use of PIB and the desire to limit smoke and deposits.

 

[windthrown]

Noodling is much tougher than crosas cutting IMO and IME

You must be kidding, right? I have noodled hundreds of rounds... no way it is harder than cross cutting. No way!

 

[redbull660]

661 with .404 Stihl RSLF (sq. grd. full skip) is the cat's meow when it comes to noodling. IMHO of course.

clears the long fibers no problem and the .404 stays sharp for what seems like forever.

 

[windthrown]

Good Lord, how wide was his band mill??!!

It was a big one. Far bigger than the one that we had which was 6 ft high and 2 or 3 feet wide? I never did any band saw milling using that thing, as I did not have the tracks/rails needed to do that. He had rails 30 feet long. He also wanted an even bigger bandsaw mill, but his wife was balking at the space that the rig took up. It took up the entire north side of their house. His goal was to have board stock of every kind of local wood. He had a wood storage bay that was half of a barn, with racks and racks of wood. The guy was a milling machine. He was a retired developer from California and had lots of time to play with his toys.

 

[Ron660]

I have tried a few variations of the .404 ,dry fir is picky on chain for being grabby so that was my test wood ,normal square like i cut with was fast but jerky ,round at 10 degrees top plate ,20 side plate on the usg grinder (aggressive sideplate ) still grabby and tearing fibers too much ,10 degree top plate ,base slide /side plate set to zero was real smooth but slower ,gave the nicest finish also ,but the .404 seems faster than the 3/8 ,i think the wider kerf moves more material faster ,bigger dust chips are on the ground also ,on the alaska mill i do not get the jerkyness like i do with the norwood also with the powerhead set up high in the air ,so a more aggressive chain can be used on the alaska mill ,if look in the image it is up in the air on the square tube ,so a grabby chain makes the tube bounce and flex ,down low it is not as bad on the flex View attachment 429570

Did Randy use different porting numbers on your 660 since it's used for milling?

 

[bwalker]

You must be kidding, right? I have noodled hundreds of rounds... no way it is harder than cross cutting. No way!

In our hardwoods noodling takes probaly twice as long.
I have cut Douglas Fir in MT and it cuts like butter, about like our Popple,however never noodled it.

 

[Hedgerow]

found a pic of what i turned those boards into ,was small porch off side entry to the house
View attachment 429598
made some 6x12's for the roof support also on that mill ,one on right is 16 feet long ,all free lumber off trees from the property .
View attachment 429599

That's impressive stuff right there Brian..



Makes our chainsaw art look crude..
This was a 27" slab of American Elm.

 

[Hedgerow]

In our hardwoods noodling take probaly twice as long.

Hard wood...

 

[HuskStihl]

That's impressive stuff right there Brian..

View attachment 429614

Makes our chainsaw art look crude..
This was a 27" slab of American Elm.

Man! What kinda top angle did you have on that chain to make the wood come out so smooth and shiny?!

 

[windthrown]

In our hardwoods noodling takes probaly twice as long.
I have cut Douglas Fir in MT and it cuts like butter, about like our Popple,however never noodled it.

*Your* hardwoods? Sorry bub, but you do not have the monopoly on hardwoods. You people always think every tree out here is a conifer, but they are not. FYI, hardwoods here in the far west include most all the eastern, Eurasian and some Australian hardwoods as well as the native hardwood species here. I regularly cut white oak, black oak, maple, madrone, chinkapin, black locust, eucalyptus, cherry, alder, etc. etc. Poplar (depending on if it is real poplar, or yellow poplar which is actually a magnolia) and cottonwood are actually pure hell on chainsaws. We have a shyteload of cottonwood here and I do not cut it any more. Too hard on saws, too light a firewood, and its stinks when burned. Also FYI, Doug firs that grow in this vicinity west of the Cascades are denser, stronger and harder than those grown in other areas. For that reason they command a premium here at the mills in this area.