661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have adjustable carbs on all my saws, the few brands have tried all ran slightly different even tuned the best,milling h1r had better torque than yamalube,but bucking with the hybrid the h1 r was not loaded enough to run right. This just goes to show they all have their place ,and what oil works in one application may not be ideal for another,the h1 r did not work right in my trimmers also
 
well you want to run that 2r injector oil. It's soo thin and filled with so many solvents. Little wonder it ran like dog crap at anything but 32:1. Even then it was lean. It wasn't the saw either. Saw runs better on stihl ultra than it does on your yamalube 2r...even at 32:1.

lunacy - The only lunacy is you posting over 2,000 times (no joke) on this thread... in which you think there is no point to any of this.
Lunacy is borrowing against your house to run these BS test.
And I could care less how any oil did in your make believe test.. but by slamming 2r you once again display your lack of knowledge. It's no supprise you attribute a tuning condition to a particular oil..
 
Lunacy is borrowing against your house to run these BS test.
And I could care less how any oil did in your make believe test.. but by slamming 2r you once again display your lack of knowledge. It's no supprise you attribute a tuning condition to a particular oil..

well I didn't. So get your facts straight.

If you didn't care you wouldn't be here, responding 2 seconds after anyone posts a different opinion then your own.

2R is crap on paper. I gave it a fair shake. and it did poorly. you just can't stand that. so you attribute it's poor performance to anything you can.

I have never had an oil I couldn't tune to run right. Some require more work then others.
If a particular combination lakes torque it's not the oil causing it..

lunacy = you actually believe this! :dumb:
 
I have never had an oil I couldn't tune to run right. Some require more work then others.
If a particular combination lakes torque it's not the oil causing it..
Some carbs cant be tuned ..............admittantly I am not speaking of chainsaw carbs, but I have lots of 2 cycle motors that have non-tunable carbs
 
well I didn't. So get your facts straight.

If you didn't care you wouldn't be here, responding 2 seconds after anyone posts a different opinion then your own.

2R is crap on paper. I gave it a fair shake. and it did poorly. you just can't stand that. so you attribute it's poor performance to anything you can.



lunacy = you actually believe this! :dumb:
It placed 2nd...
And you stated you borrowed money from your house to finance this..
And the fact you attribute a tuning issue is testimant to why your tests are not valid...
 
I have only milled once. Made some beams for a bridge in a remote location.
Well if it is in my head or not ,when milling i can tell the difference between how different brands run ,not the alaska mill ,the norwood on tracks there is a difference on how my 660 runs between different brands even retuned to make best power ,the exhaust tone is different between some brands also .
 
Well if it is in my head or not ,when milling i can tell the difference between how different brands run ,not the alaska mill ,the norwood on tracks there is a difference on how my 660 runs between different brands even retuned to make best power ,the exhaust tone is different between some brands also .
I'll repeat. I have never had any two stroke motor that I couldn't tune to run perfectly. I have never "felt" any oil to make more power in a given situation.
What you are describing is a text book tuning issue. In your case likely made more apparent due to how your using your saw and the fuel requirements changing as the saw warms in a long milling cut.
 
I'll repeat. I have never had any two stroke motor that I couldn't tune to run perfectly. I have never "felt" any oil to make more power in a given situation.
What you are describing is a text book tuning issue. In your case likely made more apparent due to how your using your saw and the fuel requirements changing as the saw warms in a long milling cut.
Well i have had some oils tune better than others then i guess ,on a chainsaw or weedeater i should not have to rejet them to make them useable .the H or L screws should be enough in my opinion .
 
Ive had plenty of carbs that wouldnt adjust with h and l adjustments on them. Blown check valves, dirty, ported and standard jetting is too lean, air leaks, etc. Regardless of the oil if carb is operating properly u should be able to go as rich or lean as u like ?
 
Well i have had some oils tune better than others then i guess ,on a chainsaw or weedeater i should not have to rejet them to make them useable .the H or L screws should be enough in my opinion .
The adjustments are usually very small. Certain oils do cause the need for more coarse adjustment and I steer clear of them.
 
Back
Top