My 461 pulled that chain you made with 8 no problem at all.
7 or 8 pin
- Thread starter Ironworker
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My 461 pulled that chain you made with 8 no problem at all.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Secret badge of the sharp chain organization, the secret password phrase is, "Oh, so you got your saw modded, that's nice."
A guy in Alaska has a 460 I ported and runs a 36" semi skip with an 8 pin. I thought he was crazy but he said it pulled it great.
A guy in Alaska has a 460 I ported and runs a 36" semi skip with an 8 pin. I thought he was crazy but he said it pulled it great.
GPX433Todd
Small Engine Addict
I have a set of big dawgs on it and they really pull it into the wood when you "engage" them. Dawgs gotta stay, cuz they're cool. Thinking a 7pin would help when doing that. Couldn't hurt to have one of each lying around, right?
GPX433Todd
Small Engine Addict
Well never mind. Looking at my pic, I have a seven pin on it. My bad.
Gosh I feel dumb.
Gosh I feel dumb.
PA Plumber
Addicted to ArboristSite
Most saws will pull an 8-pin. But just being able to pull it doesn't make it better. Especially in a work environment, the 7-pin is so much more forgiving and easier to operate. Put a stop watch on it, and you'll again find the 7-pin is fastest when operating the saw in it's optimal RPM range. The only time I'd see an 8-pin advantageous is if strictly limbing. However, if that were the case, I'd be using a 50cc saw that in no way wants a 3/8 8-pin rim. Honestly, most guys are just infatuated with the idea that bigger is better and "my ported saw" can pull it. The proof's in the pooding though.
Deets066
Firewood hack
I'll agree with you on most of this, in a work environment it's a 7 for me.
But, on the other hand if I'm just bucking firewood from 8" to 24" my 066 is faster with a 9 than it is with a 7
For sure
I like my saw to b as fast as it can b all the time, that's why I tune them everytime I use one and it's why I never use anything smaller than 90cc. Get use to a big saw and a smaller one seems insufficient and slow. Short bars and big saws with big sprockets for me please.
l wish you could easily buy 5 & 6 pin sprockets not just 7,8,9,10,11ect. l wish you could get a 7pin .325 sprocket in large/standard spline. My wants l realise are physicaly impossible in some instances. FWIW OEM's usually factory fit the most suitible sprocket.....they know what works with their products!
dave53223
ArboristSite Operative
7 pin always has more torque.
Rx7man
Cattle Rubbing Post
I think a lot comes down to the wood you're cutting, In the softwoods I'd say an 8 pin for anything under 24 inch and a decent 4+ cube saw. MOST of my husky 65's came from the factory with an 3/8th 8 pin sprocket.. I think that's optimistic in stock form and the 7 pin would definitely be better. (Granted they were only 18-20" bars)
I wish I had a rim drive clutch on my Manhattan project, I think a 7 pin (it's an 8 as well) would be really nice... At the point I'm at with the saw it's a little slower than a ported 394 (8 pin) in 32" live douglas fir, Perhaps a 7 pin would give it the extra oomph it needs
While chain speed is probably the biggest factor for cutting speed in small wood (Piltz isn't always wrong), in larger wood there's a whole lot more that comes into play, skip or full comp chain, raker height, wood hardness, etc
Then there's oiling, If your saw is marginally oiling, the 7 pin will help with that
One size doesn't fit all, the 7 pin is good for apes with no feeling of where the saw makes power, it'll be more forgiving for getting pinched, etc
I wish I had a rim drive clutch on my Manhattan project, I think a 7 pin (it's an 8 as well) would be really nice... At the point I'm at with the saw it's a little slower than a ported 394 (8 pin) in 32" live douglas fir, Perhaps a 7 pin would give it the extra oomph it needs
While chain speed is probably the biggest factor for cutting speed in small wood (Piltz isn't always wrong), in larger wood there's a whole lot more that comes into play, skip or full comp chain, raker height, wood hardness, etc
Then there's oiling, If your saw is marginally oiling, the 7 pin will help with that
One size doesn't fit all, the 7 pin is good for apes with no feeling of where the saw makes power, it'll be more forgiving for getting pinched, etc
Brad, I agree with your summary 100%. In the real world when you have a tree that is a little hung up and wants to twist I'll take the torque of a 7 pin over the speed of an 8 pin every day of the week. Of course, if I were bucking soft wood being held level by a machine and I were using a 90+ cc saw, I'm sure I'd have a different opinion.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I run .404 sprocket is 7.5 in size compared to 3/8 cogs,it is the best of both worlds
Rx7man
Cattle Rubbing Post
Depending on how you look at it it's the best of neither world.. you also need more force to pull the .404 chain.
I was using an 8 on my stock 372 and thought it was great till one day at a gtg I was forced to put the 7 on due to a short chain and I almost beat the guy who usually whomps me pretty bad with his 576.
John
John
7 tooth is king, rather lower the rakers so the chain can take a bigger bite!
At least that's what works for me on my Dolmar PS-7900 in oak and anything softer.
Rx7man
Cattle Rubbing Post
Since a lot of my saws a stuck with an 8 pin (spur drive clutch drums), I lower the rakers and just don't need to lean into it.. the bars stay nice and cool when you don't have to dog the powerhead in and reef on it to make it cut
7 tooth is king, rather lower the rakers so the chain can take a bigger bite!
At least that's what works for me on my Dolmar PS-7900 in oak and anything softer.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Just last week my FMC 372 had a violent chain throw. Upon further inspection the 8T sprocket exploded full bore.
There was so much force that the chain bent the inside dog.
There was so much force that the chain bent the inside dog.
