bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
Glad to hear you finally came to a conclusion. Keep us updated on how you like your 880.
880 vs 3120 stock (YAEVTT)
- Thread starter B_Turner
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vamtjewboy
ArboristSite Member
3120xp
i just bought a 3120xp for milling. my saw is not stock as the muffler and cylinder have been beefed up...also, i do not have any 880 or 088 experience so i'm not going to be much help with the type of experiential comparison that u are looking for. however, i was wondering if the stihl has an "extra bar oil button". the 3120 has a little lever in between the on/off switch and the choke; u push it with ur thumb and lock it on for more oil when u need it. push it again and it unlocks. i use it a lot. also, doesn't a dealer purchased husky have a 2 year warranty and the stihl 90 days? -nick
i just bought a 3120xp for milling. my saw is not stock as the muffler and cylinder have been beefed up...also, i do not have any 880 or 088 experience so i'm not going to be much help with the type of experiential comparison that u are looking for. however, i was wondering if the stihl has an "extra bar oil button". the 3120 has a little lever in between the on/off switch and the choke; u push it with ur thumb and lock it on for more oil when u need it. push it again and it unlocks. i use it a lot. also, doesn't a dealer purchased husky have a 2 year warranty and the stihl 90 days? -nick
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
The Stihl 880 is 1 year for non-pro use, 90 days for Pro - it's all in how it's registered. The carb or other "emission related" parts are 2 years. Kind of meaningless as any defect usually shows up pretty quickly, but are rare...
No "manual oiler" on the 880, but it literally gushes if you turn the oiler up.
The reality of warranty is that they don’t cover abuse (bad gas, overheat from milling etc) and is just about impossible to have a manf. defect show up 2 years later...
No "manual oiler" on the 880, but it literally gushes if you turn the oiler up.
The reality of warranty is that they don’t cover abuse (bad gas, overheat from milling etc) and is just about impossible to have a manf. defect show up 2 years later...
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just got back from driving an hour and a half each way to my favorite big Stihl and Husky dealer. Went down with an 880 in mind, spent a couple hours looking at saws and yacking with them. We fueled up several saws and ran them out in the back, including my 066 which I brought as a sort of benchmark.
Thoughts:
The 3120 throttle response was snappier and the saw was much smoother. The side cover is pretty fiddly to put back on (even the tech said so), although I am sure one gets use to it. As we already knew, fixed hs jet.
The Stihl was maybe a little tougher looking. Felt a little lighter in the hand, although close. Seemed more compact which I liked. Side adjuster which is preferable to the cover mounted end adjuster of the 3120.
Another thing that is very noticeable about the two saws is that the big Stihl has more clearance forward between the dogs and the chain brake. On the Husky in a big log, one would have to reposition the saw during the cut to keep the brake from hitting the bark. Ironically, between my 066 and 395 (both big dogs) the 395 has more clearance, which really matters in a big tree with thick bark (like our Doug fir).
It became tough again to decide which saw to own first, but in the end I came home with one of them
and a 50 3/8 inch Cannon bar, another reel of Stihl RSLKF, and some more odds and ends. (BTW They sell alot of Cannon bars (relatively) and almost all of them are 3/8.)
Tonight I'll make up a couple 158 dl chains and tomorrow I will put it to some wood.
Thoughts:
The 3120 throttle response was snappier and the saw was much smoother. The side cover is pretty fiddly to put back on (even the tech said so), although I am sure one gets use to it. As we already knew, fixed hs jet.
The Stihl was maybe a little tougher looking. Felt a little lighter in the hand, although close. Seemed more compact which I liked. Side adjuster which is preferable to the cover mounted end adjuster of the 3120.
Another thing that is very noticeable about the two saws is that the big Stihl has more clearance forward between the dogs and the chain brake. On the Husky in a big log, one would have to reposition the saw during the cut to keep the brake from hitting the bark. Ironically, between my 066 and 395 (both big dogs) the 395 has more clearance, which really matters in a big tree with thick bark (like our Doug fir).
It became tough again to decide which saw to own first, but in the end I came home with one of them
and a 50 3/8 inch Cannon bar, another reel of Stihl RSLKF, and some more odds and ends. (BTW They sell alot of Cannon bars (relatively) and almost all of them are 3/8.)Tonight I'll make up a couple 158 dl chains and tomorrow I will put it to some wood.
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2000ssm6
Stihl User
What did ya get?
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have absolutly nothing to add to this thread, but it was an interesting read:hmm3grin2orange:
brncreeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Now that you’ve mentioned it I have noticed that too but it’s never been a problem. Just slide it back and take another bite with the dogs.
You forgot to compare the oil override lever on the 3120 vs. no override on the 880. Also, which one sounded better? I did a muffler mod on mine and it greatly improved the power and sound.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I forgot mention the oiler, although it was mentioned earlier in the thread. Seems like a good idea.
In terms of the sound, the sound comparison was interesting to me in that even with the size they each sounded a lot like smaller models of the same make. The 880 sounded like a louder, bigger meaner 660 although I think some extra edginess was prevented because of the thick iron muffler. It still had a bit more roar (both volume and quality) than the husky and overall I think is more "impressive" to run.
Between my 066 and 395 (stock) I like the sound of my 066 better, but in this case I liked the smoother snappier sound of the 3120. Kind of a harley vs beemer (boxer) thing, so just a personal preference. The big pistons really assert themselves, and I found it hard to stop playing...Just the right amount of volume for me, and I (probably) will not muffler mod it.
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
Another thing I found interesting was the the bare powerheads did not seem that bulky or as heavy as I remembered in hefting them before.
But put a 50 inch and 12 lb bar and chain and then the things get more cumbersome. I'll bet they are pushing 40 lbs wet.
Also I noticed today on the Cannon really long bars, they have a really wide belly and a relatively small tip. Different from the pictures I've seen. Not sure how many teeth on the sprocket, but I don't think I'll be doing much plungecutting with that bar. I'll give it a try, of course, but I wouldn't recommend standing very close to me the first try, yahoo....
But put a 50 inch and 12 lb bar and chain and then the things get more cumbersome. I'll bet they are pushing 40 lbs wet.
Also I noticed today on the Cannon really long bars, they have a really wide belly and a relatively small tip. Different from the pictures I've seen. Not sure how many teeth on the sprocket, but I don't think I'll be doing much plungecutting with that bar. I'll give it a try, of course, but I wouldn't recommend standing very close to me the first try, yahoo....
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brncreeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cannon re-did there tips, the new and improved ones now have 6 rivets instead of 5.
Did the 880 noticeably wind up higher on the RPM’s? The 3120 is limited on the RPM’s but with a sharp chain it’s not a big deal. It would be nice to somehow toggle the limiter on and off. An example might be limiter ON for milling and OFF for short blasts such as stump work.
I wonder how well long string chips flow out the 880? It’s not a problem with the 3120.
Did the 880 noticeably wind up higher on the RPM’s? The 3120 is limited on the RPM’s but with a sharp chain it’s not a big deal. It would be nice to somehow toggle the limiter on and off. An example might be limiter ON for milling and OFF for short blasts such as stump work.
I wonder how well long string chips flow out the 880? It’s not a problem with the 3120.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am going to go out to the shop right now, and I'll see if mine is a new or old bar (new, but may have been in stock a while).
I couldn't really tell about the limiters, but both reved what seemed fairly high. Since I am a woodturner, I pay attention to how saws clear noodles, and in general, the Stihls are designed very open below the sprocket and clear better than Huskies, especially Huskies full wrap bars which cross below the chip path (Most Stihl full wraps don't cross below).
But I noticed today on the 3120 due to the large outboard clutch the opening below the sprocket is huge.
Tonight I have the joy of having to count accurately to 158 drive links while I chase the chain around to make up a couple chains. I swear I don't know I can make counting accurately so difficult.....These days I mark the dls with a sharpie at intervals of 50 dls so I don't have to start over so many times. I suppose if I had a really long clear spot on the bench I could do it better.
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bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
I give up too...what did ya buy? :help:
Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'lll post a pic of some kind tomorrow that will tell all. That way it will be extra anti-climatic.:Eye::Eye:
Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
2000ssm6
Stihl User
I say he got the 880, do we need a poll???:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
Trigger-Time
Addicted to ArboristSite
What............to Black Ball him? :hmm3grin2orange:
Pablo26
ArboristSite Guru
158 DL fits the 880 on the 50", so unless the husky is the same, there is your answer. Good choice (even if I am wrong), congrats on the new saw!
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
158 dl is the spec for both of them. (I checked that out before I revealed that info.) I just spun up an 158 dl and it's clear out to the end of the adjustment already.
So I could use some help here.....if I need to (shorten) move back the bar almost an inch...3/8 pitch means around 3/4 inches between drive links.
So if I take out two drive links will it move move the bar back around 3/4 inch or so?
The bar is bowed in the middle, but kind of flat toward the sprocket...
Good thing I tried to fit the first chain before I made up a couple more.
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
No volunteers? Maybe I'll try taking out just one link first, and then see if I have any problems getting the chain on. Easier to take out links than put them back.
