Have any of you done this? this is my second year of using mine.. works great..no problems.. but.. I dont know if its because I have swung a heavier maul for years or what but it seems it might need a little weight added to the head.. I feel like it would do a better job sometimes if it were a pound or 2 heavier.. your thoughts.. thanks!!
Adding weight to the x27?
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barton174
ArboristSite Guru
Maybe weld a chunk of steel to the back side of the thing, if you want it to be heavier? There is, of course, the problem of the plastic handle that's right there, but I think if you go slow and let it cool between small welds, and have the rest of the head (and the plastic handle where it attaches to the head) in some water at the time, it should weld OK without melting the plastic. They look forged, so it should be fine to just MIG weld to.
Mike
Mike
I’d be careful how I went about that… at least start by making it easily un-do-able. Striking tools… good striking tools are “good” because they balance well. Designers of “good” striking tools spend a lot of time getting the balance just “right” so the tool feels like an extension of the hand/arm; usually the biggest difference between a “good” striking tool and a “mediocre” striking tool is the balance.
A striking tool not properly balanced will be awkward to use… and wear you out in a big hurry.
A striking tool not properly balanced will be awkward to use… and wear you out in a big hurry.
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Write Fiskars and ask them to release the X39 Spalthammer in the U.S.
http://www.amazon.de/Fiskars-122150-Spalthammer-SAFE-T-X39/dp/B004ARHEY4
I wouldn't even consider adding weight to an X25/X27 unless you have two, because you're defeating the major advantage that it splits very well for a lightweight tool. Adding weight to it is going to wear you out sooner each time you split, and it'll wear your joints out faster over a lifetime of splitting.
If you need a heavier tool occasionally for the exceptionally tough log, get a heavier tool, wedge 'n sledge, or noodle away.
http://www.amazon.de/Fiskars-122150-Spalthammer-SAFE-T-X39/dp/B004ARHEY4
I wouldn't even consider adding weight to an X25/X27 unless you have two, because you're defeating the major advantage that it splits very well for a lightweight tool. Adding weight to it is going to wear you out sooner each time you split, and it'll wear your joints out faster over a lifetime of splitting.
If you need a heavier tool occasionally for the exceptionally tough log, get a heavier tool, wedge 'n sledge, or noodle away.
FLHX Storm
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That Splathammer weighs in at a bit over 8 and 1/2 pounds. I think I'm in love! I NEED one!:hmm3grin2orange: Light weight is good, but I've had some helacious knots lately that could use a beast like that one!
Easiest thing to do to see if you like the extra weight and making it easily removable would be to use the hollow handle to your advantage. Drop yourself some fishing weights in there and stuff a rag behind them with a string tied to it so you can yank the rag back out.
Wouldn't be quite the same as extra weight on the head, but would be close enough to tell if it suits you or not.
Wouldn't be quite the same as extra weight on the head, but would be close enough to tell if it suits you or not.
Streblerm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Adding weight to the fiskars seems like a 30" bar on a 60cc saw. Sure it might work ok, but just not what it is designed to be.
The fiskars is about speed, not brute force. I can split gnarlier stuff by focusing on my technique rather than just givin'er hell. Make your swing through a 90 degree arc and bend at the knees while snapping your wrist just before impact. It works. I roundhouse swing most of the time out of habit. When I run into something that doesn't bust then I take a few deep breaths and do just like I said above. More often then not the round will just fly apart.
I am a big guy with good upper body strength but I can't swing a heavier maul the same way. I actually prefer the shorte handled fiskars over the x27 for the same reason. It is easier on my wrists.
The fiskars is about speed, not brute force. I can split gnarlier stuff by focusing on my technique rather than just givin'er hell. Make your swing through a 90 degree arc and bend at the knees while snapping your wrist just before impact. It works. I roundhouse swing most of the time out of habit. When I run into something that doesn't bust then I take a few deep breaths and do just like I said above. More often then not the round will just fly apart.
I am a big guy with good upper body strength but I can't swing a heavier maul the same way. I actually prefer the shorte handled fiskars over the x27 for the same reason. It is easier on my wrists.
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Took my own advice:
http://www2.fiskars.com/Customer-Service/Ideas
I used the first "non intellectual property" link. Looks like they add a number per request, mine was 32101 (you can see it in the URL once you start click the link to submit an idea)
http://www2.fiskars.com/Customer-Service/Ideas
I used the first "non intellectual property" link. Looks like they add a number per request, mine was 32101 (you can see it in the URL once you start click the link to submit an idea)
Last edited:
ponyexpress976
nipple fritters
If you get stuck on a knotty piece, try laying it down and hit it on the side.
FLHX Storm
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That's what I do after I've tried both ends. Sometimes crotches and knots seem like steel, but I still manage to get through them. It could also be that I save my knots and crotches for when I'm angry so I can really give it hell! :msp_smile: But just think of the damage I could do with an 8 and a half pound Fiskars! Not that I would want to use it every day, or for more than a few swings, but dang, I think I could split an engine block with the X39.
zogger
Tree Freak
Im in! Gave em a list of my fiskars gear, asked for the x39 USA access, and dropped I would be open to do a product review as well. Mentioned the site here to go with all that. #32105 in the submissions
trailmaker
ArboristSite Operative
While we're at it let's ask them to release the x37 and x46 as well. I started a thread on this line a while back.
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/173581.htm
zogger
Tree Freak
If they get enough hits from this domain they might get some representative to register here and sign in and answer questions. They most certainly should offer all their gear here.
You know it is funny, but I can only think of three industry reps registered here, two from oregon and that latest person from Efco.
FLHX Storm
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Heck, I'd even be willing to test drive the X39 since I'm known to be abusive to the equipment and this one would be a labor of love. :msp_love: If I knew there was a chance, I would hold back some of the worst, gnarliest, knottiest, crotch wood I can find and even be willing to do videos of it's performance. AND, I just so happen to have a Black Birch that fits the bill to a Tee. All I need to do is fell it!
I used one of these mauls that a friend of mine had. The low weight was the first thing I noticed with it. It isn't seem to have the follow through that a 8lb maul has in hardwood.
I cut and spilt 10 cords of wood this year that 4 families are using to heat their homes. Most of it was split within 8lb maul. The stuff I couldn't get through with the maul was run through the log splitter. I have split wood with a 8lb maul for 20 years. I am a recreational splitter meaning I don't do it for a living. I consider splitting wood part of exercising and my personal fitness program. People at the gym ask me what i am training for and I tell them cutting and splitting wood. I get some very funny looks when I say that.
I saw the Fiskars maul on this board for years and heard all the rave reviews. I considered retiring my trusty maul for one more than once. I have a friend that bought one brand new that he let me try the first day he bought it. I had considerable trouble going through hard eucalyptus and live oak. The low weight of the maul didn't have the momentum to get through rounds of hard wood. It split pine like a hot knife through butter, even better than my trusty maul. I decided to stick with my old mauls and not get the Fiskars.
I have two 8lb mauls that I split wood with. I have two because they have wood handles that sometimes break. I found a hardware store that garuntees the wood handles for life. Last year that arrangement paid for itself. I may get smart and buy a maul with a fiberglass handle but I like the feel of a wood handled maul and I got pretty good at putting new handles on them.
Labor Day this year I split 2 1/2 cords of eucalyputs with my maul. I was so tired I was staggering at the end of the day. Nothing is more satisfying to me than to see a pile of wood I split at the end of the day. I am an engineer and mostly do paperwork. Splitting wood is much more satisfying.
Anyway, long post to say I agree that the weight of the X27 is too low which causes difficulty when splitting hard wood. My solution is to stick with my old mauls and save the money I would have spent on a Fiskars.
Bob
I cut and spilt 10 cords of wood this year that 4 families are using to heat their homes. Most of it was split within 8lb maul. The stuff I couldn't get through with the maul was run through the log splitter. I have split wood with a 8lb maul for 20 years. I am a recreational splitter meaning I don't do it for a living. I consider splitting wood part of exercising and my personal fitness program. People at the gym ask me what i am training for and I tell them cutting and splitting wood. I get some very funny looks when I say that.
I saw the Fiskars maul on this board for years and heard all the rave reviews. I considered retiring my trusty maul for one more than once. I have a friend that bought one brand new that he let me try the first day he bought it. I had considerable trouble going through hard eucalyptus and live oak. The low weight of the maul didn't have the momentum to get through rounds of hard wood. It split pine like a hot knife through butter, even better than my trusty maul. I decided to stick with my old mauls and not get the Fiskars.
I have two 8lb mauls that I split wood with. I have two because they have wood handles that sometimes break. I found a hardware store that garuntees the wood handles for life. Last year that arrangement paid for itself. I may get smart and buy a maul with a fiberglass handle but I like the feel of a wood handled maul and I got pretty good at putting new handles on them.
Labor Day this year I split 2 1/2 cords of eucalyputs with my maul. I was so tired I was staggering at the end of the day. Nothing is more satisfying to me than to see a pile of wood I split at the end of the day. I am an engineer and mostly do paperwork. Splitting wood is much more satisfying.
Anyway, long post to say I agree that the weight of the X27 is too low which causes difficulty when splitting hard wood. My solution is to stick with my old mauls and save the money I would have spent on a Fiskars.
Bob
zogger
Tree Freak
Muscle memory. You split a LOT with a much heavier maul, and my guess is, sideways swings?
Fiskars works from using a different technique, much faster swing, from straight overhead. Im a smaller guy so I took to the Fiskars well, I could build up more impact from being able to swing the lighter axe much faster than I could my 8lb traditional maul. Well, the Fiskars is just designed so much better for the same task..once you get the swing of it down....sharper, better shaped head, very VERY nice lightweight strong handle, leaves the head weight as most of what you are swinging, and mostly at the very end where you need it the most. And it took me awhile to get better at it as well, more than one session. It is also less tiring to swing it in extended sessions. I was getting to the point about 15 to 20 minutes is all I wanted to do with the heavy maul. The fiskars I can swing for hours if I want to and not get tired.
My speed and accuracy improved the more I used it, to the point I was able to do the match trick!
I dont use the supersplitter for every single round, still have the maul and wedges and sledge, but I can do most of my rounds with it. Its a technique and accuracy focused tool, not just a brute strength tool.
Ive used this analogy before, because it fits
Two tools, will do a similar job, just showing older tech versus newer tech, both work, both are outstanding examples of engineering, just from different eras and they work in a different but similar way
.45 70 government
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