Adding weight to the x27?

[FLHX Storm]

I used one of these mauls that a friend of mine had. The low weight was the first thing I noticed with it. It isn't seem to have the follow through that a 8lb maul has in hardwood .......................
Anyway, long post to say I agree that the weight of the X27 is too low which causes difficulty when splitting hard wood. My solution is to stick with my old mauls and save the money I would have spent on a Fiskars.

Bob

First, I have to say I have never used a splitting maul least of all anything weighing so much as the one you prefer to use. For that matter I have only been splitting wood since the middle of November this year. I was using an old regular wood handled axe. But it didn't split wood worth a darn. Then I went to lows and saw one that might work. It was their True Temper 4# Splitting Axe. Sure, it worked well, but beat me half to death. Since I had been on here lurking I had read a lot about the Fiskars X25 and X27 and decided to give it a try. That thing, no matter what I put in front of it, it will slice through. Some knotty extremely fibrous Black Birch did give it some trouble, but usually only required a few more swings to bite through it. I've easily sliced through elm, maple, and oak with it. I couldn't be happier with the X27, and it does provide quite a workout for me. When I switched from the True Temper over to the X27, it was a world of difference. My swings became more accurate so my splits became smaller. Since I have a wood stove, this is what I needed. I really do love the X27 and use it whenever I can!

When they finally get around to releasing the X39, 8.5# splitting maul, I will scoop one up ASAP. If it is anywhere near as durable and well balanced as the X27 I can be reasonably sure I will also be using that one on a regular basis as well.

Finally, I don't have big muscles, nor should I have! I don't go to the gym to work out because to me it is a waste of time and money. But give me the X27 and I have all the exercise I could ever need. I have become more toned and my stamina has increased exponentially without beating myself silly so that I can barely stand. I've got a minimum of 6 cords of wood under my belt in a bit over a month, and that doesn't include the seasoned wood I've had delivered to my place that I had to either split or re-split which was 2 cords. Or for that matter doesn't include cleanup. I also do not own or want to own or borrow or rent a wood splitter due to this. I can almost hear you now saying "Big Deal, I can do that with one hand tied behind my back in a day" BUT, here's the rub, I'm a 61 year old (widowed) grandmother!

I'm not saying one is better than the other, just stating my experience, limited as it may be as far as splitting firewood goes. Felling and bucking trees on the other hand, I've been doing since 2004 I believe.

Perhaps when the X39 comes out here in the US, give one of those a shot. You may like it enough to include it with your other splitting tools.

 

[FLHX Storm]

I keep forgetting to add to the "Adding Weight" issue.

Since the handle is hollow I wonder if pouring molten lead down into it would work. Maybe submerge all of it but the top few inches in cool water to keep the handle from overheating and add the lead. I may be wrong, but didn't they used to put lead in practice baseball bats?

I for one would be interested in seeing what adding weight to the X27 would do for it, or if it would make it unusable causing the polymer handle to split or break. If it makes it better, I'd say it's worth a try. You know what they say, "Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained!"

 

[H 2 H]

From my trap shooting days I still have some 7 1/2 (lead) shot; when I get back to splitting I will dump some down the shaft and try it

 

[Bob95065]

Muscle memory. You split a LOT with a much heavier maul, and my guess is, sideways swings?

What is a sideways swing?

I start with my right hand near the head and my left near the end of the handle. I swing the maul over my head and down. As it travels done my right hand slides down the handle until it meets the left accelerating the head toward the round. I don't think ths is what you would call a sideways swing. I have a picture of me throwing a maul in my profile here: http://www.arboristsite.com/member.php?u=29600. Indeed to figure out how to make it my avatar.

It may help that I am 6'05" 250 lb and I lift weights at least 4 days a week. I have split wood with a maul since I was in high school so I have plenty of practice. I got pretty accurate with a maul too.

 

[Streblerm]

What is a sideways swing?

I start with my right hand near the head and my left near the end of the handle. I swing the maul over my head and down. As it travels done my right hand slides down the handle until it meets the left accelerating the head toward the round. I don't think ths is what you would call a sideways swing. I have a picture of me throwing a maul in my profile here: http://www.arboristsite.com/member.php?u=29600. Indeed to figure out how to make it my avatar.

It may help that I am 6'05" 250 lb and I lift weights at least 4 days a week. I have split wood with a maul since I was in high school so I have plenty of practice. I got pretty accurate with a maul too.

Yep, that sounds like the standard swing. Sideways or roundhouse. It is my default swing style as well. It isn't the best way to swing the Fiskars though. That swing style uses the upper body strength to power through. I've said it before as have others. The best bet on the fiskars is to hold it parallel to your body, right in front of you. You swing through a 90 degree arc and snap your wrist and bend your knees just before you contact the the round. Boom.

It is kind of like swinging a baseball bat or a golf club. You can swing with all your might but the ball will go farther with the right technique. I suspect most people who arent impressed with the fiskars are swinging it like a maul. You're only going to get about 70% of its capability swinging that way.

When I first got the Fiskars I would always have my trusty maul close by. I soon found that anything that wouldn't split with the fiskars wasnt going to split with the maul either.

Here's a link to a video from the guy who I would credit with introducing the Fiskars to Arboristsite. Haven't heard from him in a while. Notice he brings it straight down, snaps the wrist, and bends at the knees. He doesn't slide his grip down the handle either.

Splitting firewood in more than one way AKKAMAAN - YouTube

 

[johncinco]

Tom clark - The man beating the machine.wmv - YouTube

This guy is one bad wood splitting man. His top secret is an axe, weighted and offset so when it hits it twists just a little to pop the wood apart.

There are no new ideas, just old ones with new marketing.

 

[zogger]

What is a sideways swing?

I start with my right hand near the head and my left near the end of the handle. I swing the maul over my head and down. As it travels done my right hand slides down the handle until it meets the left accelerating the head toward the round. I don't think ths is what you would call a sideways swing. I have a picture of me throwing a maul in my profile here: http://www.arboristsite.com/member.php?u=29600. Indeed to figure out how to make it my avatar.

It may help that I am 6'05" 250 lb and I lift weights at least 4 days a week. I have split wood with a maul since I was in high school so I have plenty of practice. I got pretty accurate with a maul too.

Well, you have a foot on me, and are literally twice my bodyweight. No way in heck, short of goiung on the full lance armstrong diet (Bwa!), would I ever be able to swing a big maul as hard or as fast. Wheras I pick up the Fiskars, that levels the playing field out, thats light enough I can get similar kinetic energy just from being able to swing it faster. See, to you, you are already swinging a Fiskars class in weight tool. You want to step up to what might be a comparison, it would have to be like a 16 lb maul with a two foot longer handle, something like that, which I bet you could still swing, but get tired out faster and it probably wouldnt work as well for you within a short time frame.

Thats where I got with a conventional 8 lb maul, I just got to the point of * this is just too dang heavy, sucks, aint splitting that great anymore * stage with those things. Years ago, didnt eel bad and could do it, now, I really just need to be a little more selective in tools and technqiue. Fiskars nailed it for me, worth every penny. My productivity just jumped off the scale once I got it down how to use it effectively. No contest. Does about the same job in problem wood, and in good wood, geez loweez, it just flies. I ran a big home made power splitter here for a few years, I couldnt load and cycle that thing any faster than I can bust up most rounds by hand. And I always liked doing it by hand better anyway. I just dont want to do it badly by hand by using an older engineering design tool over a more modern one that actually has significant improvements to it, that just fits for me better and works so much better.

There very well could be an even better design out there, but not for 50 bucks there aint.