parrisw
Tree Freak
What type of acid do you use to remove aluminum transfer off a cylinder.
Aluminum transfer, how to remove??
- Thread starter parrisw
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parrisw
Tree Freak
Thanks!!
kevlar
Addicted to ArboristSite
use it sparingly,don't breath the fumes! and wear glasses. Damn I sound like my mother!
That stuff's for real. The fumes will burn your nose/chest and eyes in a hurry.
cjcocn
Tree Freak
Wear gloves as well and have good ventilation.
There will likely be some directions regarding diluting (different ratios for different uses), but I used it full strength on an 290 piston without melting anything that I didn't want melted.
There will likely be some directions regarding diluting (different ratios for different uses), but I used it full strength on an 290 piston without melting anything that I didn't want melted.
I use it straight.
Aaron B
ArboristSite Lurker
And how is it applied? Brush?
I use a QTip.
kevlar
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep
parrisw
Tree Freak
Thanks guys. I'll give it a go.
I just tried this Aluminum wheel etch wash that is used for cleaning aluminum for painting, its acid based, not sure which kind of acid though. It starts to bubble and turn white a little on the alu transfer. But hasn't taken any off yet, I tried rubbing it off with a rag? Is that how its done?
I just tried this Aluminum wheel etch wash that is used for cleaning aluminum for painting, its acid based, not sure which kind of acid though. It starts to bubble and turn white a little on the alu transfer. But hasn't taken any off yet, I tried rubbing it off with a rag? Is that how its done?
kevlar
Addicted to ArboristSite
It sounds like the right reaction. it may take a few applications to remove all the aluminium.To completly neutralize it I use water but inbetween application I will wpie with a rag.
parrisw
Tree Freak
Thanks, I'll keep trying.
Don't forget that after the muriatic acid, you may need to either lightly sand the cylinders out a bit by hand, or run the ball hone through real quick. I prefer the hand sanding myself.
parrisw
Tree Freak
What grit do you use to sand it down with?
Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
When I did my 346, I did no sanding after the acid at all, just a new set of rings and let'er rip.
Ian
Ian
parrisw
Tree Freak
Cool, I'll see how it looks after the alu removal.
Zodiac45
Paleostoveologist & Sawwhisperer
Parris, How do you tell if it's transfer? Someone just gave me a complete (no compression) Huskie 51 today. I have the jug off and on the exhaust side there is some scuffing. The piston needs replacing for sure as there's a bit of ring welded in the slot. The cylinder looks good except for the scuffs under the exhaust port. I wondered if I should hone it and see what it looks like or do as you are? I guess my question is how much is too much scuffing and it's possible that I might also have transfer? 
parrisw
Tree Freak
Parris, How do you tell if it's transfer? Someone just gave me a complete (no compression) Huskie 51 today. I have the jug off and on the exhaust side there is some scuffing. The piston needs replacing for sure as there's a bit of ring welded in the slot. The cylinder looks good except for the scuffs under the exhaust port. I wondered if I should hone it and see what it looks like or do as you are? I guess my question is how much is too much scuffing and it's possible that I might also have transfer?
You can see the transfer, i just looks like aluminum has rubbed off the piston onto the cylinder, scoring is different, its just a groove cut into the cylinder.
Anyone in the UK found a source of decent strength hydrocloric acid? (muratic in the states). The strongest I've been able to find was only 9% and was less than impressive. Not much stronger than something you'd put on your chips!
