Ams-Oil 100:1 ?????

[Anthony_Va.]

I can get similar looking p/c by leaning out the carb

I also have never seen a saw that has had that much carbon on it that has had any large amount of amsoil through it

Yep, either that or not having enough engine lube. :msp_razz:

 

[fastLeo151]

Because of an air leak or a poorly tuned carb

 

[BrocLuno]

The Japanese and Euro's have a different aproach ....

They lab test and rate their oils as in JASO and ISO. All the good oils are labeled 2T for high speed air cooled engines and then rated using these standards. Look at a bottle of Stihl Premium and you'll see a EGD rating. It's good stuff.

There are slightly better oils out there like MOTUL 710. Any oil good enough for air cooled 2 stroke racing motors will carry a rating of JASO FC/ISO-L-EGD. Valvoline and Sunoco make oils over here that are fully rated this good. They are not horribly expensive and work well.

I don't know if Amsoils products are rated? W/o lab results you have no idea what you are buying. If they are rated, then comparison shop the ratings and buy what you like.

All of my saws are old enough to not have warranty for a decade or so, so I'm on my own. I run MOTUL 710 at 40:1 for the Swedish iron and Valvoline EGD 2T for the rest - also at 40:1. Been working for me for a while now (like 40 years or so, using the better stuff when it comes on the market) and my powerheads last a long time. Usually something breaks, or the plastic gets brittle long, long before the motor quits.

I tried 100:1 once in a leaf blower (Red Max) and ate the motor (running rated full synthetic). Rebuilt it and have been running 40:1 ever since and that machine is at least 15 years old and gets run for hours at least once a week year round. Comp is still good and it makes power. I'll never do 100:1 again - ever

 

[Andyshine77]

Yep, either that or not having enough engine lube. :msp_razz:

The saw was tuned properly. Even if tuned to the edge the amount of fuel ran through the saw should not have cause overheating and wear that bad that fast. One more reason not to run oil mix that lean is the fact you now have zero room for error. I know Saber is very viscous/concentrated, but not enough to run it at 100:1 at 50:1 it makes for a great oil.

 

[Andyshine77]

I don't know if Amsoils products are rated? W/o lab results you have no idea what you are buying. If they are rated, then comparison shop the ratings and buy what you like.(

Amsoils Saber meets the currant JASO FD standard, Dominator meets JASO FC. The rating mean little to me however, many of the best oils like Klotz R50, Silkolene pro 2 sx will never pass these test's because of a little more smoke than some other oils, and it takes big bucks to have the tests preformed.

 

[Trx250r180]

:msp_scared: saws need oil ?

 

[src360ss]

Don't see anything to be confused about.
The answer to your question is "yes".
Just because it is still running that doesn't mean you aren't shortening the service life of your equipment.
I've seen the inside of engines running Amsoil at 100:1.
I don't want my equipment to be put through that.

It's your money and your equipment. Do as you please.


Mike

I do value your opinion and will watch my saws for accelerated wear. The only time I had an issue with a saw was when I switched grades of gasoline, I usually run 87 from bp or a holiday and for some reason I chose to run shell 91.....scored a brand new 5105 not more than 4 tanks of fuel through it , took it apart that night and cleaned up the piston and ring and since then I have only ran 87 since then. I don't know if the detergents in the 91 from shell kept the amsoil at 100:1 from lubricating the internals.

 

[Sabertooth]

40:1 - 45:1. Don't care what it is... 50:1 is just for EPA, so screw them, I think it needs a little more IMHO.

 

[Eccentric]

They lab test and rate their oils as in JASO and ISO. All the good oils are labeled 2T for high speed air cooled engines and then rated using these standards. Look at a bottle of Stihl Premium and you'll see a EGD rating. It's good stuff.

There are slightly better oils out there like MOTUL 710. Any oil good enough for air cooled 2 stroke racing motors will carry a rating of JASO FC/ISO-L-EGD. Valvoline and Sunoco make oils over here that are fully rated this good. They are not horribly expensive and work well.

I don't know if Amsoils products are rated? W/o lab results you have no idea what you are buying. If they are rated, then comparison shop the ratings and buy what you like.

All of my saws are old enough to not have warranty for a decade or so, so I'm on my own. I run MOTUL 710 at 40:1 for the Swedish iron and Valvoline EGD 2T for the rest - also at 40:1. Been working for me for a while now (like 40 years or so, using the better stuff when it comes on the market) and my powerheads last a long time. Usually something breaks, or the plastic gets brittle long, long before the motor quits.

I tried 100:1 once in a leaf blower (Red Max) and ate the motor (running rated full synthetic). Rebuilt it and have been running 40:1 ever since and that machine is at least 15 years old and gets run for hours at least once a week year round. Comp is still good and it makes power. I'll never do 100:1 again - ever

I've been running Redline 2-Stroke Race Synthetic in various 2-stroke motorcycle, ATV, and OPE engines since 1986 or so. It has never let me down. Was running it at 40-1 in my old Macs when we were cutting on Sunday. Dave did mention that he didn't like the way it smelled though. I think the 'stink' he mentioned had more to do with the Sta-Bil I put in my fuel. Redline always used to smell great when burned at 50-1 with race gas.

I was running Amsoil Race Synthetic for a few years when I could get it locally for 1/2 the cost of Redline. I never had any issues with it. I believe that's the Amsoil product now labled as "Sabre". I always ran it at 32-1 or 40-1. Redline still costs less than Stihl Ultra for me locally.

 

[tdi-rick]

Amsoil is a lot thicker than stihl ultra, more concentrated .

It's still thinner @100*C than Motul 800 2T and elf HTX 976 etc. which are probably some of the best race two stroke lubes ever made, and no one in their right mind would mix those oils @ 100:1.

Interestingly Motul, elf, Silkolene, etc all recommend to refer to the engine builder or manufacturer on the preferred mix ratio.
If that information isn't available, Motul recommend somewhere in the range of 3-4% (25:1 to 33:1) for road racing engines, and somewhere around 2% (50:1) for MX use.
The local KTM factory team ran 800 2T Off Road @ 2.5%/40:1 prior to being Motorex sponsored.

And while we're here, seeing as no one has mentioned it already on this thread, (although we've probably lost count how many times it's been mentioned and referenced in the past) there are a number of tests out there that show increased HP/torque from fatter mix ratios, due primarily to a better ring seal.

 

[Bigdgb]

does anyone run 25:1 in thier Stihl CS,
would there be issues with this?

 

[Miles86]

does anyone run 25:1 in thier Stihl CS,
would there be issues with this?

None, your engine will like it (Stihl ULTRA that is). I run 20:1 and have no carbon, just may need to slightly richen the H needle just a little.

 

[Termite]

My only problem with any oil or fuel came from using 100octane racing gas. The saw was a 401Dolmar. The only fuel used in the saw was racing gas. The ring was seized to the piston. You could drop the piston and ring through the cylinder with no resistance. I had to apply heat to pry the ring form the groove.
After a clean up the saw ran like new.
Some people on here said it was all the additives added to racing fuel.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

:deadhorse: