Amsoil- 100:1?

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I'm gonna use up some Dominator i have, but nothing that might sit for a little bit.....i've heard stories about rusty bottom ends. Not sure if its true but it was on the internet so it probably is.[emoji1]


I USED to run Dominator religiously in my 250r. Never ran Ethanol fuel and store the machine indoors year round. After it sat for about 6 weeks, I tore her down to do the ESR big bore and I was astonished and pissed off at the amount of fine corrosion I found on the crank, cylinder wall, rod, crank bearings and just about every steel part in the crankcase and top end. And there was in fact a good puddle of oil in the base, which is good. The best way I can describe it is that it was kind of like brown dust, and most of it simply wiped off..mainly crank, bearings, etc (which were replaced anyway for the build). But the corrosion left a sort of shadow or staining in the cylinder wall..

I am not the only one who has experienced this phenomenon with Dominator oil. And I have since quit using it and switched to Maxima 927 castor oil after much research and seeing so many well known 250r specific builders recommend it for the big bores in all but cold weather conditions. I have had my top end off after the machine sat for a season and have found zero corrosion since switching to castor oil in my R. I'm not saying Dominator doesn't lubricate well, it does... But it has very little in the way of corrosion protection..at least in my experience...
 
I USED to run Dominator religiously in my 250r. Never ran Ethanol fuel and store the machine indoors year round. After it sat for about 6 weeks, I tore her down to do the ESR big bore and I was astonished and pissed off at the amount of fine corrosion I found on the crank, cylinder wall, rod, crank bearings and just about every steel part in the crankcase and top end. And there was in fact a good puddle of oil in the base, which is good. The best way I can describe it is that it was kind of like brown dust, and most of it simply wiped off..mainly crank, bearings, etc (which were replaced anyway for the build). But the corrosion left a sort of shadow or staining in the cylinder wall..

I am not the only one who has experienced this phenomenon with Dominator oil. And I have since quit using it and switched to Maxima 927 castor oil after much research and seeing so many well known 250r specific builders recommend it for the big bores in all but cold weather conditions. I have had my top end off after the machine sat for a season and have found zero corrosion since switching to castor oil in my R. I'm not saying Dominator doesn't lubricate well, it does... But it has very little in the way of corrosion protection..at least in my experience...
Castor has even worse potential corrosion issues than ester based oils like dominator.
 
Castor has even worse potential corrosion issues than ester based oils like dominator.


I don't know how to explain it then. With Dom I got corrosion, and with Castor I haven't yet. Possible Maxima 927 has corrosion inhibitors added??? Guess I'll have to grab a bottle off the shelf and see...
 
FWIW, I had an Evinrude outboard (yes, yes, I know not the same as a saw) that called for 100:1. The original owner actually did burn it up at that rate and it was rebuild under warranty. I bought it lightly used from him and mixed it at 50:1 like the rest of my OB's and never had a problem. After a couple of years OMC went back to recommending 50:1 for all of their premix motors.

Not the same as a saw but with some of the same concerns, what OMC discovered was that while there was generally sufficient lubrication at runtime with 100:1 mix there wasn't always enough of an oil coating left behind to prevent rust when the motor sat idle for extended periods. OMC put out a service bulletin which included instructions that outboards that came in for service would have the 100:1 stickers mounted near the gas line removed with the customer being told to switch to use 50:1 mix. I think they started 100:1 with 1986 models and by around 1991 had switched back to recommending 50:1.

The VRO systems on their larger outboards became pretty notorious for eventually failing as well so it became common to just bypass the VRO system and mix yourself at 50:1.

100:1 was nice when trolling because you had less smoke and less problems with oil loading/plug fouling with the engine running at or just above idle for long periods of time.
 
Nope haven't felt well at all lately. However that has nothing to do with the fact Saber mixed at 100:1 is absolutely the best performing mix I've used, I could even feel a boost in power. I mean everyone knows less oil means more power, what are you thick in the head or something.

And here all this time I thought Saber was only good for keeping dust down on driveways.
 
A friend of mine was sponsored by redline oils for a while ,they had him running his cr125 at 64 to 1 ,he never lost a top end doing this .
 
OK, just checked. They do state on the Maxima 927 that there are synthetic ester additives for corrosion protection.

Based in my experience, I would say their product works as advertised. YMMV
 
I ran that stuff too back in the 90's terrible corrosion of the carb jets. Actually turned the brass black.
I still have yet to try Redline ,Maxima 927 was all i ran in the atv ,only complaint was black goo around the pipe seams and muffler exit ,engine was always nice inside though .
 
I still have yet to try Redline ,Maxima 927 was all i ran in the atv ,only complaint was black goo around the pipe seams and muffler exit ,engine was always nice inside though .


For me, a little exhaust spooge is always a good trade-off to internal corrosion if I don't run the thing every day ;)
 
I know of two different people that seized a hand held blower and a Lawn Boy mower on Saber @ 100:1. I would use it at 50:1 or more, but never at 100:1.
you don't have to sit around here for very long to see a story of a 2t seizure at richer oil ratios also, any mechanical defect that will cause a seizure in a motor will happen twice as fast in one running less oil & a bit longer in one running conventional mixes.
fanks
 
you don't have to sit around here for very long to see a story of a 2t seizure at richer oil ratios also, any mechanical defect that will cause a seizure in a motor will happen twice as fast in one running less oil & a bit longer in one running conventional mixes.
fanks
The lawnboy duraforce motors have very weak rod bearings and scatter them regularly. The duraforce calls for a tcw3 oil 32:1 and that's all I would run in one. I use penzoil syn or yamalube 2m at the reccomended ratio.
 
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