Wow those pics turned out poorly! I'm sure some of you can tell me even without the pics, but thought they may help.
another MS261 thread!
- Thread starter Lignator
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Bilge Rat LT 20
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Poke it with a stick!!!
or a 2mm allen wrench in the hole and slowly turn CCW. You will feel the plastic limiter slip.
Turn it about 3/8th of a turn so you are in the limiter adjustment range and try it.
or a 2mm allen wrench in the hole and slowly turn CCW. You will feel the plastic limiter slip.
Turn it about 3/8th of a turn so you are in the limiter adjustment range and try it.
I'll give that a try, thanks.
I got the limiter out of the way and my next question: are these 261 coils limited or non?
I do tune by ear. I just like to know all the pertinent information that I can with each saw I work with.
This is my first experience tuning a strato and have heard they are more difficult to hear the 4-stroking.
I'll just fatten her up till I know for sure then start leaning it out.
This is my first experience tuning a strato and have heard they are more difficult to hear the 4-stroking.
I'll just fatten her up till I know for sure then start leaning it out.
Lignator
Swamp Yankee
update. did some felling, limbing and bucking with the 261 this past weekend in some swamp maple and red oak. saw performed like a champ! really like the power the saw has for it's displacement.
the saw is a PIA to start when cold though. is it the advanced timing? it feels like it might snap the starter cord until the saw actually starts.
the saw is a PIA to start when cold though. is it the advanced timing? it feels like it might snap the starter cord until the saw actually starts.
Yup. Drop it back for the winter.
Lignator
Swamp Yankee
perhaps I will split the difference, say 5 deg advance? it def makes a difference in how the saw runs.
In an earlier thread by Brad Snelling, he found that the coil was limited somewhere "north of 15,000". He tightened the squish & advanced the timing on mine after I had "unlimited" the H needle & done a MM. It clearly 4 strokes at 15,000 when at full operating temp & is not hitting the limiter. Don't worry about it, it won't get in your way. Enjoy!
Hey, thanks for the info, thats exactly what I wanted to know.
I am thinking I will pull the base gasket on this 261 and see if that will help.
I dont think it will run with my Jonsered 2152 just yet.
Here's a little more info. He did not remove the base gasket, &, also said he does not do pop-ups on 261s. The compression went from 165 to 190 after the lathe work. Performance wise, it now holds 12,500 in the cut (maple) when being properly fed with the 18in bar & .325 RS buried! If you want to push it to the limits of torque with a very heavy hand, it will still maintain 11,000-11,500 in the cut. You might be surprised, & I might be too, in a head to head against the 2152. If the 2152 is not ported & will keep up, I would consider it a very special saw!
The 261 has been muff modded-thats it. My 2152 has been muff modded, the base gasket removed and the transfer ledge? on case cleaned up a little.(The same process as on 2159's and 359's to match case dimensions to actual cylinder dimension.)Here's a little more info. He did not remove the base gasket, &, also said he does not do pop-ups on 261s. The compression went from 165 to 190 after the lathe work. Performance wise, it now holds 12,500 in the cut (maple) when being properly fed with the 18in bar & .325 RS buried! If you want to push it to the limits of torque with a very heavy hand, it will still maintain 11,000-11,500 in the cut. You might be surprised, & I might be too, in a head to head against the 2152. If the 2152 is not ported & will keep up, I would consider it a very special saw!
OK. I misunderstood as far as how many mods would be done to the 261. Let me go back to when mine was MM only & with the H needle "unlimited" so I could retune. At this point in time, the throttle response improved a TON. I was also able to fatten it up to where it was definitely better than with the factory settings. It was now taching at 13,300 & was happy there. After 3 or 4 more tanks of gas it was broken in to the point where it wanted to be at 13,700 & was really starting to show some muscle. I took it to the dealership & had the owner hold the tach, a DTI 20,000, while I buried the bar in maple. He said it was holding 11,500-12,000 in the wood. We were both very impressed. After Brad Snelling advanced the timing & tightened the squish, raising the compression from 165 to 190, it then performed to the specs which I described earlier. It will be interesting to hear how it stacks up against your 2152.
I will hopefully get to the mods this weekend sometime. I'll certainly let you know.
I removed 20" b/c with Stihl safety green chain(don't like that chain AT ALL) and put on a 16" 3/8 combo. I run this same combo on the Jon 2152. The ms261 will now run w/ the 2152!!! Pretty pleased.
Guess I forgot to include in the above post that I opened up the muffler a bit more and pulled the base gasket also.
Got it tuned pretty well and running strong: tachs right around 12,000 and cleans up nice in the wood.
Got it tuned pretty well and running strong: tachs right around 12,000 and cleans up nice in the wood.
WOT is set to 12,o00?
?? 12,000 sounds way too low. It must be awfully rich. Usually they run best around 13,800 after a MM. If you were really running 12,000 in the wood, that is an entirely different matter. Can you do a vid?
