Another Super Split thread?

[KiwiBro]

When I have someone helping me, their job is at the end of the table dealing with the splits that come off. They are not to work near the wedge at all, that is all me. The nice big table is a good buffer that keeps their pesky little fingers away. These machines are too fast to react if someone elses hand wanders in the way. Paul from SS said it best. He told me "The safest way to run this machine is alone. I don't need to use my eyes to know where my hands are."

Been there, done that and the guy was very lucky to keep his fingers. He was stacking straight off the back of the table and was told never to put his hands anywhere near the wedge. In a moment of madness he decide to grab wood from in front of the wedge while I was still operating the ram/rack. Cut the tip of his glove off but his reactions were just fast enough to save his finger from the same fate.

He never ever did that again and I never ever allowed anyone to take wood off the table ever again.

 

[bigblue0827]

Wow KiwiBro that is scary! I would hate to live with knowing I made the stroke to take apart someone's hand! I won't split with anybody and the few folks I do I trust working machinery with them (do a lot of farm work together). When I have someone helping that I don't really trust as much, I roll a wheel barrow to the end of the table, and they take the splits out of the wheel barrow as they come off the table. A few extra feet of protection.

 

[NHMike]

Uncle, Gotta ask ya.......now that you have had the SS for a little while, do you still think it is over hyped? I also bet you haven't thought about what you paid for it,.....just WHY you didn't buy it sooner!

I'm bummed out as I have split everything I had down on the ground. Now I have to stack it all, and then go drop some more trees so I can start splitting again

 

[D Chaplin]

Question for you fellas that have added the electric motor along with the gas one. what work and how much time does it take to switch from the gas to electric. I understand the electric motor mounts below the gas but how much work is involved with switching belts and so forth? Or can you just bring it in and plug the A/C and continue on electric? Like many of you I want the gas for splitting out at the wood pile most of the time, but it would be nice to be able to split in the shed in the winter out of the weather with electric. Especially with a little fire going to keep warm.

 

[unclemoustache]

Uncle, Gotta ask ya.......now that you have had the SS for a little while, do you still think it is over hyped? I also bet you haven't thought about what you paid for it,.....just WHY you didn't buy it sooner!

No, not over hyped. It's a fantastic machine, and worth every penny.

Question for you fellas that have added the electric motor along with the gas one. what work and how much time does it take to switch from the gas to electric. I understand the electric motor mounts below the gas but how much work is involved with switching belts and so forth? Or can you just bring it in and plug the A/C and continue on electric? Like many of you I want the gas for splitting out at the wood pile most of the time, but it would be nice to be able to split in the shed in the winter out of the weather with electric. Especially with a little fire going to keep warm.

It takes maybe 3 minutes to remove the cover, switch the belt and put the cover back on. Not a prob at all.
I really do recommend the electric, but use 220. 110 just doesn't cut it, pardon the pun. I have a 30' cable on mine, and wired in a plug at my shop and at my house. I just need a better way to move it around.

 

[D Chaplin]

One last question.. Approximately how many amps would the electric motor pull on 220V? The reason I ask is I'm also looking at upgrading to a new Miller Mig Welder. I assume the the welder is going to draw way more Amps then the splitter ever will. So I'm looking at generators that can power both incase I need to weld a piece of farm equipment away from the shop or if I'm in an outbuilding that doesn't have 220 to split some wood or of course as back up power incase of an ice storm or something.

 

[bigblue0827]

Obviously depends on whether you go with the 1HP or 1.5HP option. The math is straight forward though. 1HP = 746 watts. Power (watts) = Voltage x Current (Amps). So the 1HP at 220V would draw between 3-4A (746 divided by 230) and the 1.5 HP would draw about 5A. Obviously a little higher right at startup, but a 2 kW generator would run one of these all day long. If you are looking to use this as a backup generator for your home, that will be the driving force in your size requirement. I recommend making a list of everything you NEED to run off generator power (well pump, sewage pump, fridge, deep freezer etc.) and run the math on figuring out your actual load requirement. From there buy a generator that exceeds that requirement and wire accordingly. Good luck!

 

[brenndatomu]

1.5 HP would draw about 5A. Obviously a little higher right at startup, but a 2 kW generator would run one of these all day long.

Actually, a lot more on startup. A rough rule of thumb is 4-5 times as much, especially since you have to bring that flywheel up to speed. I would be highly sceptical if a 2k genny would start it, run it yes, start it, hmm. My 5k/6.5 k surge genny won't start my 5 hp air compressor

 

[3fordasho]

my 3.5k / 4.0k surge would not start my 1.5hp super split on 110v, it might do OK on 220v but I have not tried it. Double or triple the recommendation to wire the SS to 220v, on 110v I got poor performance and lots of tripped breakers, even with a good HD extension cord - and get the 1.5hp over the 1hp motor.

Actually, a lot more on startup. A rough rule of thumb is 4-5 times as much, especially since you have to bring that flywheel up to speed. I would be highly sceptical if a 2k genny would start it, run it yes, start it, hmm. My 5k/6.5 k surge genny won't start my 5 hp air compressor

 

[D Chaplin]

Thank you guys very much for the feedback! This forum is outstanding with an incredible amount of friendly and knowledgeable people! Thanks again.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Obviously depends on whether you go with the 1HP or 1.5HP option. The math is straight forward though. 1HP = 746 watts. Power (watts) = Voltage x Current (Amps). So the 1HP at 220V would draw between 3-4A (746 divided by 230) and the 1.5 HP would draw about 5A. Obviously a little higher right at startup, but a 2 kW generator would run one of these all day long. If you are looking to use this as a backup generator for your home, that will be the driving force in your size requirement. I recommend making a list of everything you NEED to run off generator power (well pump, sewage pump, fridge, deep freezer etc.) and run the math on figuring out your actual load requirement. From there buy a generator that exceeds that requirement and wire accordingly. Good luck!

There's all kinds of things wrong with that math, that is when it gets to the REAL world...

Like was said, there's start up amps and then there's high amp draw every time the flywheel slows down when splitting. Then there's the fact that "ON PAPER" it takes 746watts to make a HP, BUT that doesn't figure in the losses of friction ect...

A good rule of thump is, it takes 10 amps on 120V to make one hp, and 5 on 220V... In life, that works out every time.

I always laugh at those tools that are rated 3, 4, or even 5hp and yet, will plug into a 120V outlet! How about those 5hp vacuum cleaners!!! lol

Another thing i'll mention... As for running a welder on a genset... You have to over size the gen set by quite a bit, or the welder will never run/weld right...

SR