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Either a 15A or a 20A breaker will trip if it is on a shared circuit. Run a dedicated 20A, 12/2 Romex circuit for the splitter and you will eliminate the problem. Many houses are wired with a outside outlet dropped from an existing circuit. Without doing a voltage test on it, it's anybody's guess how much of a load is already on any given circuit to begin with.
 
Just a few pointers and things I have learned. Keep a scraper handy for keeping the beam clean. A can of lube for the bearings helps once in a while to keep them slippery. Try and keep your cuts as square as possible. Keep an eye out if you have a nasty knot towards the end of the split, I have had a few ride up and out of the wedge. Glad you bit the bullet and ordered one. Yes it is a bit of money but you will be very happy.
 
Uncle, once you start splitting, you will forget about what you spent and wonder why you didn't get it sooner!
The SS takes the "chore" out of splitting and makes it fun. I am chomping at the bit to swap out the backhoe for the logging winch so I can go skid out the last 20 logs I have.
Need to start dropping some trees so I can keep feeding the SS. Mr. Finn offers some great advice to keep in mind.
Best of luck and welcome to the SS club!
 
For those of you with electric, you have trouble with tripped breakers? What amp breakers are tripping? 20 or 15?

20 amp breaker, 12 gauge wiring all the way to the splitter, nothing else on the circuit. Tried it on multiple circuits and breakers, some trip more than others but they all will trip out. When you stall the splitter on some elm (common) there is no clutch so you've stalled a 1.5hp motor - it trips the breaker. Still need to try it on a 230V 20amp circuit.
 
20 amp breaker, 12 gauge wiring all the way to the splitter, nothing else on the circuit. Tried it on multiple circuits and breakers, some trip more than others but they all will trip out. When you stall the splitter on some elm (common) there is no clutch so you've stalled a 1.5hp motor - it trips the breaker. Still need to try it on a 230V 20amp circuit.
Length of run (wire) also is a concern. The longer the run the larger the wire needs be.

If I were to add a electric motor to mine, it be a 2hp 220amp and run 10 gauge wire.
 
I asked Paul at Super Split about it. He also recommends 220. I've got 2 places where I plan to run this, so I'll wire those up before it arrives. Oh, and I need to find a motor somewhere. I'm getting the mounting stuff from him, but I'll find a motor locally.
 
I ran this by Paul via email at SuperSplit a few days ago but have yet to received a reply. Someone wrote here on the Arboristsite that when they assembled their new splitter they bolted the leg with the axle under the table end. That would be great for a single leg and hitch on the flywheel end. However, that is where most of the machines weight is, including the engine and (2) 75 lb. flywheels. So what if you made a wagon style steer axle and wagon tongue for the heavy end. You could then split, and pull it forward by hand or tow it with a lawn tractor or quad. Front and rear axle posts would bolt on same as they do now. He could make it an option like the table, a four wheel wagon version, by simply swapping out the bolt on single leg for the steer wheels and tongue. Googled nursery wagon running gear (small size hay wagon style) as I am not a fabricator, and found one made by Kory. It is 8" wider and a bit pricey to buy just for a splitter.
 
I just use mine as it was built. Nothing I want to change. I can grab the front of the table with both hands and walk it anywhere around my wood lot. I have no need to tow... I do have a 5x10 tilt trailer that I can roll it up on by hand if I need to take it anywhere.
 
I rewired my electric SS to run on 220v and proceeded to split some twisted grain american elm... no popped breakers :) On the last round or two I did manage to trip the thermal overload on the motor.... that took a good hour or more cool down to reset. Walked those last rounds over to the hydraulic splitter and had trouble there too, stringy mushy mess - so some nasty stuff. Sure was nice to not have to walk over to the breaker box and reset a half dozen times. So those considering an electric SS - plan on using 220V power.
 
I just rewired mine to 220 as well. I bypassed the thermal overload. Needed to do it when I was on 110 - it wouldn't even finish starting up before it popped! Maybe I should use it now that it's on 220, but I don't think I'll bother. I'll just be careful not to work it too hard.
Anyway, the 220 is much better. Nearly as powerful as the gas motor.
 
That's exactly what I did. Honda is mounted in it's proper place, but the electric motor is mounted underneath so the belt fits on the other flywheel. I had to bend back the flywheel cover a bit on that side in order for the belt to fit, but it all still fits well enough.
 
Here you can see the table I built. I was cheap and Paul hooked me up. I had a harbor freight engine laying around and built my own table, I do need to add a towing option, as I would like to tow it behind my quad. Boy do I love this thing...... Simple well designed machinery gets my motor running. If I have a week bored at home I am going to build a "gilligan island" style bicylce power unit. Make the wife jump on and away we split!
 

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Not really. It is pretty perfect sized. I wouldn't want it much wider, if you get a heavy half round sitting on the edge of that table you do get quite a bit of torque. I'm not the greatest welder, so I don't want to test them more than I need to. The boards directly behind the wedge are slightly tapered. This keeps the splits from chewing them up as they come off. I have split ~10 cord with this setup so far and only complaint is should have tapered a little harder. Luckily PT deck boards are cheap.

Another note about thest tables... I would NOT run this splitter without one. One for convenience, but more importantly safety. When I have someone helping me, their job is at the end of the table dealing with the splits that come off. They are not to work near the wedge at all, that is all me. The nice big table is a good buffer that keeps their pesky little fingers away. These machines are too fast to react if someone elses hand wanders in the way. Paul from SS said it best. He told me "The safest way to run this machine is alone. I don't need to use my eyes to know where my hands are."
 

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