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how does the 8n do with that heavy of a hog?

It runs it fine. My lift pump is a little sleepy and can use a rebuild though.

I had another 50 8n years ago. The pump on that one was so strong that the only factor in how much weight it would pick up was how high you were comfortable with the front end coming off the ground!
 
It runs it fine. My lift pump is a little sleepy and can use a rebuild though.

I had another 50 8n years ago. The pump on that one was so strong that the only factor in how much weight it would pick up was how high you were comfortable with the front end coming off the ground!
That's pretty good for a 8n.
 
My Father had aTO-30, he said it was a 8n. I think he was told that when he bought it. But I got on a olds tractor forum & a guy told me what to get off the engine block. I got four different numbers & he emailed to tell me that it was a TO-30 & not made by Ford.
This tractor was rolled out in 1950's.
 
My Father had aTO-30, he said it was a 8n. I think he was told that when he bought it. But I got on a olds tractor forum & a guy told me what to get off the engine block. I got four different numbers & he emailed to tell me that it was a TO-30 & not made by Ford.
This tractor was rolled out in 1950's.

TO-30’s were generally superior tractors to 8n’s. Their only weak point was the block. You can find quite a few that have block repairs after over heating.
Old timers would drill them straight through and brace the block on either side.
At least that was what I was told.
 
TO-30’s were generally superior tractors to 8n’s. Their only weak point was the block. You can find quite a few that have block repairs after over heating.
Old timers would drill them straight through and brace the block on either side.
At least that was what I was told.
Really, Father had two men help him replace sleeves in the block, but that was 40-50 years ago.
 
would you guys say that a 706 would make a good loader tractor?
About 70 hp tractor. Should be good. Differential lock would be a good thing to have , especially for snow work. Have used a 70 hp loader tractor most of my life.
 
We bought a Ford 5000 at the dealer in Essex, Ontario......Low hours, and used for a season of property clearing, than brought back. Salesman sharpened his pencil. and its has worked on this 50 acres farm since Woodstock was a thing. NEVER not starts as per instruction label. Annual service is filters and tire pressure check. 55 years later, its still await anything.......
 
My Father had aTO-30, he said it was a 8n. I think he was told that when he bought it. But I got on a olds tractor forum & a guy told me what to get off the engine block. I got four different numbers & he emailed to tell me that it was a TO-30 & not made by Ford.
This tractor was rolled out in 1950's.
TO = Tractor Overseas, Built in Detroit.
TE = Tractor England.
FE = Ferguson England
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=mf&th=70294
 
would you guys say that a 706 would make a good loader tractor?
I guess that would depend on what you wanted to use the loader for, 2wd loader tractors don't get around well in anything but dry areas.

Is it gas or diesel? If gas, it will use a lot of it. Many of the older IH diesels don't start very good in the cold.

SR
 
I run a 70 hp JD 3020 with differential lock. 800 lbs wheel weight, Westendorf 7 ft. Loader and 7 ft. Snowblower. Does fine on snow and minor hills. If it’s icy you can add chains.Also use a 40 hp skidder with 7 ft. bucket and four wheel chains and it is a beast at pushing snow. Also have a grapple bucket for it which is my wood mover. Has aux hydraulics for the wood splitter but I prefer the 3020 for the splitter As it has auto return. Without differential lock they can get a bit helpless with some terrain and conditions, ie. packed snow, ice, mud, etc.
 
4020 Diesel WF is my favorite of all time! Would love to have owned one myself but just couldn’t justify having that size tractor for haying. The 4020 just begs to have a 7 bottom plow behind it😁
 
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