Any advice on loading heavy logs by hand?

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gorman

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I dropped a bunch of huge red oak today and the lady wants the wood but she also said I can help myself. I got a few days open this week so I figure it's firewood time. Any tricks of the trade to save a young, strapping lad's back?
 
If there is a tree overyou you could setup a block and tackle system (pulley) to raise thje logs off the ground then lower them into the truck
'

OR

Lift with your legs.
 
IF the fire wood is for yourself pick it up.heating fuel is going to be out the roof this winter ,with regular gas at 2.50 a gal.by winter gas will 4.oo a gal .i think its going to be a good firewood selling year.i would pick it up a truck load leave the rest.
 
GICON said:
I agree with Muphy. Firewood is a waste of time and money. If you want wood that bad call up a local tree company and have them drop you off a couple of logs on the way back to their yard.


wernt you all for firewood sales the other week?
 
GICON said:
Yes but I have a log loader. Handloading would be too unproductive. I am for firewood sales.....its still a waste of time and money though.


yeah i dont touch it myself,i know a guy that does alot and still doesnt do great
 
You guys missed an important part of his question. He said " young bucks back". I used to carry an 8' plank in my truck when I was a vulture and I would roll the pieces into my truck. Its cheap and kind of easy.
 
When I first got into the tree business I saved every peice of wood for firewood. I soon learned that all that gets you is a big pile of wood that people aren't intrested in unless you can deliver and because it is mixed species they want it cheap. I soon learned that you can be a lot more efficient on the job site if you don't have to worry about separating wood and chips in the truck and can just throw everything in the truck as it becomes available. I have a 'carry all' that is a trailer that will straddle over a peice of wood and has two chain hoists built in for lifting. I have hauled 3 1/2 foot cedar rounds 15 feet long to a saw mill. They won't pay me anything but it doesn't cost anything to take it to them. That is still pretty slow as it takes about a hour to make the trip to the saw mill and back.
 
Firewood really is not a big money maker in my opinion unless you have the storage space and can do do volume sales. I had some success years ago selling to bakeries and restaurants that used wood fired stoves for cooking and baking, they were not so concerned for similiar size and appearance of wood, as long as it burned hot and they did not run out. As for saving your back, without a loader agree splitting the wood on site is easiest and safest method for moving it out.
 
The value of firewood depends on where you live. Rhode Island prices may be quite high. Around here Oak sells for around $325 a cord, but down in Chicago it's worth a lot more (more people and money, less trees).
How are you going to split it? If you are going to do it by hand anyway, you might as well break it up into hunks you can lift, or even completely split it all up, then it's ready to sell or use. That saves trying to lift huge pieces.
If time is a factor, and you want to split it later, try to use a low trailer and a ramp. Just roll them on and off.
To make money on firewood, you need to handle the wood as few times as possible. Stacking the wood instead of just piling it, or handling it one extra time can make the difference between profit and loss.
Also try to get paid for cutting up and removing the wood from the site. You can charge the job out by the hour, and do the wood removal on the clock.
 
Lots of good points here, but the point keeps coming around that it's not worth the money, unless your business is firewood. We're assuming your business is tree work.

I have had great success in giving it away free, but this involves a strategy. If done right, your firewood finds a good home and you have unpaid assistance in getting it offsite.

The strategy begins with perfecting your art of making the firewood, which involves three critical, though easy-to-master details. First, flush-cut all laterals. If you leave weird stubs and odd protrusions the wood is harder to split, stacks funny and the bigger pieces won't roll. This makes the wood less appealing on the receiver's end.

Second, make sure all the pieces are cut 90 degrees to the direction of the limb. Weird angles make it so the piece won't stand up on end when being split, making it a major hassle, even with a hydraulic splitter.

Third, make consistent lengths. 16" is considered standard length, so set your intent to make them all standard. When diameters get bigger across than the standard length, it's harder to gauge. I have a scribe mark from the tip of my bar, 16" on down for quick reference. When you have big blocks to knock off something 30 or 36" across you tend to cut longer. In other words, longer looks shorter when the wood is wider. If you're cutting off 20" blocks, once split, these pieces won't stack well because they're too long with regards top the rest of the pile. Nobody at the splitting end wants to re-cut something you've already cut.

Attention to these details will not cost you that much extra time, and the quality and consistency of the firewood blocks is much more valuable to the end user. They are more likely to want firewood from you again in the future. You only need a handful of these guys on your call list and you will save yourself countless hours moving wood by hand. At the same time, cutting off humps and stubs and angled ends will add to the amount of chunkity chunks in the waste, but little pieces are your tradeoff for having someone gladly and happily move out your big blocks.

Note that in this approach, YOU are not the one splitting. You're just assuring that the firewood length pieces get moved off your jobsite swiftly, spontaneously and happily. If my guys have to come back for a third load, I'll give them a twenty for gas money. I express how important it is to me that they make money with the wood. You're on their side and dedicate yourself to their success. You can even help them market the wood; when your clients ask where to get split firewood, you pass along their name. This costs you nothing. YOUR money is in the time saved and being able to finish and move on to the next job.

This will 'save the back of a young buck' and is a win/win relationship, sustainable over time without the investment of money. It's easier to make a phone call than it is to load and haul tons of wood. You just have to commit to making good wood.
 
in order to make money and not waste time, you are either in the wood business or the tree business. there is no way to make any money if you have to buy wood, process it and then sell it. and if your a tree business you probably dont have the time to screw around with firewood. most tree businesses are equipped for tree care and if you are dicking around with some cheap firewood, who's running all your expensive tree equipment?
were better off just cutting the trees and then selling the logs wholesale. after a job, sell them on the way back to the shop.
 
Very good advice from Tree Machine.

I've got a guy giving me $30 a rick to pick it up onsite, cut to length but unsplit. I personally think he's crazy, but he's been doing it for a year and hasn't complained yet. I think he sells it roadside in small bundles instead of by the rick. I'm not going to be the one to break the news to him that he could surely find free wood if he just ran through the yellow pages under "tree service".
I doubt you'll find a deal like this-I got lucky and it surely won't last forever. Give it away if you can and be happy about it.
 
giving away wood

Does anyone else worry about letting uninsured third parties move wood for you? How about you, Tree Machine?
I've wondered about it, and usually try to get the wood next to the road so its not so much on private property. But on backyard removals where you can drive into the backyard, its a lot faster to pile it there and let the firewood guys come pick it up.
Saves a lot of work, but it's a risk, perhaps unprofessional, and maybe even unethical.
Probably better to find a regular, insured firewood crew, even if you have to pay for their gas money-on jobs where they will be working in the clients yard.
 
So few posters on this thread have responded to the original question about loading big wood. He doesn't have to haul the wood, he wants to. He's looking for tip to save his back.

First of all, I suggest cutting the round in 16"s then turning them and ripping them into halves or quarters. Let dinosaur juice do the work I always say. Then lift with your legs, head level eyes facing forward. Pick some smaller stuff up first to warm yourself up. If you take a break warm yourself up again. A sweat soaked shirt against your back can give you a chill after you've sat for a bit. It sounds weird but I take dry t-shirts to wear after breaks so I don't get chilled and pull something.

You're smart to watch out after your back. A bad back is a gift that keeps on giving over a lifetime.
 
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