Any good ideas on measuring out the length of a round? Mingo, Marking your bar, ect

[billintx]

I used 3/4 cpvc pipe. I didn't have any caps on hand so I plugged one end of a coupler with a wooden dowel.
I drilled a 1/4" hole in the side of the pipe opposite the handle then cut a slot in the side of the coupler.
I didn't glue the coupler so I can turn it to shut off the chalk when not in use.
Use a little paraffin inside the coupler or the chalk will cause it to bind when turning it.

 

[v-ridge]

Haven't looked thru all the threads, but havent see alot about this lately, I use a Mingo Firewood marker, any other good ideas?:msp_confused:

i saw somewhere a where guy stuck one of those teloscoping magnets (like they sell at the parts store) out at the end of the bar and used it as a guage, then just pulled it off and put it in his pocket once he had the log marked.

 

[Yerpdog]

A little late... But on my bars I have small holes drilled in the center of the bar.. 3/8" diameter at most. Usually 12", 16", and 20" from the tip. I just line up the hole on the end of the log then the tip is exactly where I want to cut. Works pretty damn fast. Don't have to carry any extra equipment and they won't wear off, like marking the bar. All my logs are within 3/4" of one another. Usually 1/2" average if the cut is pretty perpendicular to the log. Its a fairly good setup. Not perfect. But free, durable, and simple.

 

[allstihl]

after 40yrs of swinging a 16in framing hammer i can eye ball 16in within a quater inch. its just firewood how close do you have to be ?

 

[fubar2]

Trained eyeball and cold resolution. Don't let crotches, branches or anything else stand in your way. Hack right through em.

 

[OH_Varmntr]

I was thinking about this idea and found it on youtube. Only instead it mounting on the rear handle, I'll mount it on the front handle just above the clutch cover so a pressure switch can be manipulated with my left thumb. You can buy green lasers on the bay for about $50 with a pressure switch. Finding a mount that is simple, yet adjustable would be the hard part. Luckily my dad is a machinist and loves making things like that so I'm going to have him make me a mount that will clamp to my front handle.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/O4LaCb67-XA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[LouB]

I've used a Mingo maker when cutting log length stuff that is staged near my splitter. For trees cut in the woods, I usually cut approximate 16" rounds using eyeball technology. I find that off-size stuff burns just as well as precision-cut wood....

The nice thing about firewood is that one can burn the odd-ball, mis-cut and mis-shapen wood without admitting fault. Just stack the perfect stuff where everyone can see it and use the less than perfect stuff for heating.

Lou Braun

 

[FLHX Storm]

I use one of those mechanics type pickup magnets that telescope out to something like 2 feet. I collapse the end until it's at the 16 inch mark and put a small piece of duct tape to hold it where it collapsed to. Then I took a piece of small pink florescent duct tap and put it around the end to make it easier to see. Since I also cut 12 inch pieces (for kindling) when I collapse the rest of the telescopic part it collapses to 12 inches.

Then it's just a matter of placing the magnet towards the end of the bar and walk along the log, line up the mark with the end of the log or the last mark I made on the log by basically tapping the log with the chainsaw, make another mark and move on until I have however many logs lined up ready to be bucked marked which generally only takes a minute or two. When I'm done I just toss it back to where I have the axes, wedges, oil, and fuel. Then I proceed to buck the works. I found that tip someplace here on AS before I became a member here and it showed a picture of the mechanics pick up magnet referencing one on Amazon. Since I do my own wrenching, I had one on hand already.

So far that method has worked well for me though I think my next move will be to mount a laser someplace on the chainsaw with the pressure switch. For me it's just a matter of finding a spot to mount a rail since I have one that I occasionally mount to my rifle. I also have an extra rail.

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[Mulemann]

I use the Mingo with the 16 inch wheel. Once the tree is on the ground I limb it and run the Mingo down it. With a little practice you learn to deal with knots and it works pretty good, better than I can eyeball it for sure. If you use a timber jack get the log on the jack before you mark it. Marks are tough to see when they are on the bottom!