I have several red oak logs 8-16 feet long thanks to a wind storm this past fall. To clean up the mess quicker I have basically logged out most of the firewood and stacked up logs with my bobcat/forks. Now its just about time to block up these logs into rounds to split. But I'd like to cut them off of the ground about waist high instead of on the ground, its just alot easier that way if possible. Has someone ever made some kind of jig to place the logs on to block up?
Any ideas for blocking logs other than cutting on the ground?
- Thread starter reaperman
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blackdogon57
Addicted to ArboristSite
Use your Bobcat/forks to lift the logs. The longer the logs the better.
gink595
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use a grapple bucket on my skidsteer.
If you've got a hydraulic splitter, set the middle of the log on the splitter beam sideways, run the splitter in just enough to squeeze the log, now you have it suspended on both sides and can cut right up to the beam. Bonus is that the pieces are right next to the splitter and can be easily moved.
Big_Al
ArboristSite Guru
A timberjack might work if your bobcat won't do it. Won't be waist high but it will be off the ground.
Sometimes I use a timberjack to get them off the ground for cutting.
More often, I cut on one side and then use the timberjack as a cant hook to roll it over so I can cut on the other side.
More often, I cut on one side and then use the timberjack as a cant hook to roll it over so I can cut on the other side.
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flewism
ArboristSite Operative
I use the splitter as a clamp if the logs are in the 4" to 8" range for diameter.
If they are larger in diameter I use the bucket forks and a ratchet strap.
If they are larger in diameter I use the bucket forks and a ratchet strap.
I bought a 20 pulp cord load this year. The larger logs, I put my chaps on, measure the pieces and cut in the pile. Smaller logs I move to a cutting jig with a large two wheel hand truck. The jig is two I-beam saw horses with the jig spanning them. The cutting jig simply allows me to cut an 8-8'-6" log into 16-17" pieces without measuring. If I had a rig with forks I would cut everything this way. The jig is four or five cheap landscape timbers cleated together, a 2x6 fastened to the front edge as a stop and marking gage. I pile a dozen or more logs on the saw horses, cut one log at time into six pieces, set the saw down, stack the cut offs on the trailer behind me to be towed to the splitter. Roll the next log against the stop and cut. Once the wood in on the cut off table there is no measuring or bending over until it comes off the conveyor to be stacked. By I-beam saw horse I mean a flat 2x4 on top and bottom of one vertical 2x4. The legs nest under the top flange and are spread out by the bottom flange of the beam. Angle the legs a bit in the direction of the beam as well for stability, and gusset the legs from spreading with some plywood. I think mine are 4' long. Another foot longer would be nice to stage more logs at a time. Longer logs, go with three saw horses and a longer jig. I bought fire wood once from a guy with a TW-5. It was cut odd lengths and split in huge chunks that had to be resplit. Left a lasting impression but not a good one. He is no longer in business. I'll get some pics and post them today if it doesn't rain. My buddy thinks I'm nuts doing it this way but I like it. And I'd like it better with a fork lift.
Jredsjeep
ArboristSite Operative
i cut a notch in the end and lift it a little at a time with my high lift jack. it helps to have someone there to slip 2bys in there a little a at a time so i am never to far off the support it will sit in.
Pulp Friction
ArboristSite Operative
I use this "Smart Wood Holder" from Bailey's. They say it works on 1" up to 9" dia. but I have not used it on anything larger than 5 or 6". The longest I've clamped up is about 12' but you could do longer. With the big stuff you don't even need to lift more than one end into the jaws then lift up on the other end and it keeps clamping to that horizontal position. I wouldn't be without one now. It has it's place.
block table photos and wood flow
bluestem
ArboristSite Operative
Great setup Crane, can you give us any details on how someone could build such a table?
Here's the pics for the lazy folks!
Here's the pics for the lazy folks!
Bluestem; check post #8. I like the I-beam saw horses because the weight is distributed from the top directly to the legs. The fasteners hold everything together but do not directly support the weight. There are many good steel saw horses you could substitute. The top. Google Lowe's and search for 'landscape timbers'. Although they are treated they are not listed under 'treated' materials. They are flat on two sides, three inches thick, random width, by 8' long, and the nice part, they are only $3.97each. I used four. You want something thick because it is going to get cut up a bit. I have spots that are cut through after 17 cords. Lay them out side by side, cleat both ends, one end being 2x4, one end that you will butt logs to being 2x6 and sticking above the table as a stop. Before fastening cleats to the botton do a layout on the top where you are going to be cutting logs to round lengths. This is to avoid hitting screws when cutting, obviously. The 2x6 stop/gage projects about 2" above the table. I used a 2x4 at first and had to replace it with something wider. It's also is a structual bridge where I've cut through the table in spots. Marking gage: My logs are 8' to 8'-6". I therefore cut 16", 16 1/2" or 17" lengths to avoid waste and short cut offs. That is why you see three marks on the gage. 16,32,48, etc.; 16 1/2, 33, 49 1/2, etc.; 17, 34, 51, etc. So at the 48" mark is also a 49 1/2", and a 51" depending on how long the log is, which can be seen at a glance on the far end. I screwed the top to the saw horses because of lateral movement butting logs against the stop, and firred the top of the saw horses 3", flush with the table top with some scrap. It is not an original idea as I have since seen it on Youtube. Built-rite makes a block saw for somewhere around $12,500 plus $2000. for an optional log deck. If I didn't move my splitter, I could use a table instead of a trailer (trailer holds 1/3 cord), with the splitter behind that. To increase productivity I would get a skid-steer/forklift to move logs before a faster splitter. Kind of long, hope it helps.
Wow! That seems like a lot of effort for something we seem to never need. We work our piles by using a Mingo and marking everything that is exposed to view. I then cut everything that isn't in jeopardy of binding due to position. My "sidekick" goes behind me throwing the cut blocks onto the trailer (if it doesn't need to be split) or piling by the splitter. Wood the size that you are showing gets cut to length while still attached to the tree and thrown directly into the dump trailer. I would think that moving the 8' lengths of wood to the table would take a significant amount of time, by the time you factor in cutting off the saw, moving the wood, cranking the saw and then cutting. In my case, the saw is cutting non-stop.
We all work differently. I'm skinny and work alone. The larger stuff gets rolled out of the pile, marked, cut and loaded on a trailer. Smaller stuff I'd rather us the table than bend over to mark it, bend over again to cut it, again two, maybe three times, to pick up the pieces. At the table I set the chain break and let the saw idle when removing the cuts and roll another log in place. It is not faster, maybe even slower, but it is easier for me at the end of the day. I wish I had a Dingo, or something. In due time, for now it's the manual way, one piece at a time. I'm just curious how others do it also. Do you have forks on the Dingo, and how much can it lift? I'm picturing a track machine you stand on the back of.
Uh... Sandhill... I said MINGO... not Dingo! Search the forums for MINGO. It's a toold sold by Bailey's (and others) for rapidly marking lengths on firewood. You can litterally mark as fast as you walk. Our firewood is all within 1/2" of uniformity. Looks do matter to customers....
I respect the differences in work methods. We've just found this to be way more productive than the stop-n-go methods.
I respect the differences in work methods. We've just found this to be way more productive than the stop-n-go methods.
I've done this many times, its not as efficient as one may think. After a few cuts the log is not balanced any longer and falls off the forks. Smaller heavier logs approx 2 feet diameter only allow for a couple of cuts before I reach the forks and its time to crawl into the machine again to reposition. A grapple fork works better but you still end up with 5-6 feet of the log that the grapple is holding onto. I like the idea of using a splitter to wedge the log in, I may give that a shot on some longer, smaller diameter logs. But the two footers I will make some kind of table for. Thanks for the input, when I come up with some ingenious design I'll post some pix.
Sledcrazzy
ArboristSite Lurker
If you have snow it works good to build up a deck and just cut them on the snow, we do most of our wood in the winter and there is no way you would catch me wasting time setting logs up on things and messin around. Last year i blocked a years wood in one afternoon doing that and never had to sharpen.
:agree2: Then you don't have to cut near the ground, much, except every so many cuts, to be able to roll a section of log.
A peavey is your friend here.
