anybody ever work on tractors?

[Patrick62]

I am thinking about working on this one. Hmmm, I don't seem to have a pic on this computer of the thing...

Anyway, it is a old massy ferguson with the continental 4 cylinder in it. It has about a million hours on it already. If it is running on all 4 cylinders (doesn't happen often) it has enough power. Fouls plugs on a regular basis. if you don't tighten the plugs up good it leaks oil down the block! somebody in it's past removed the thermostat to keep it from heating up much, probably helps!
The best oil pressure I have seen is about 20 psi, and it drops from there.

I am going to have to rebuild it. I have never worked on a sleeved engine before. The question is should I break the tractor in half or try the "easy way out" and do the thing with it still in one piece. Evidently it is possible...

I sort of like the old beast, and it has done a decent job of moving logs around for me.

 

[Jon B.]

If it is, indeed, a sleeved engine block, I'd be inclined to leave the tractor in one piece. Remove the head and the oil pan, and you can get at all that you need to.

The exceptions, I guess, would be main bearings. And, if you decided to replace the clutch plate or throw-out bearing, you'll have to split it anyway. It may be one of those "six of one; a half-dozen of the other" deals.

Twenty psi of oil pressure may be all you'll ever see, even with a new oil pump and bearings, though I profess ignorance about that make & model. My old 8N ran between 5-20, depending on the temperature. If there was plenty of oil on the dipstick, I didn't worry if it got close to zero, even. When wide-open throttle produces 1500 rpm, a little oil goes a long way. :msp_tongue:

Jon

 

[cmsmoke]

Check and see what the oil pressure should be and does the rear seal leak?...if the pressure is low and the seal leaks, splitting it is the most sound solution. Sleeved engines are great. They aren't that hard to replace, but get a manual before you start.

 

[wndwlkr]

If it were me I'd split the tractor. That way you can do a complete overhaul & check everything. Actually pretty easy. alot easier to work on once it's out. I would do clutch & all & resurface the flywheel. But thats just me. good luck whatever you decide.

 

[atlarge54]

Lucky for me my old TO 30 had already been rebuilt. Have you checked compression? Maybe a valve job is all you need? My experience with older tractors seems it's cheaper to buy a complete rebuild kit. Have you visited ytmag.com yet?

 

[sb47]

With that many hours on it, I think I’d split it and do everything, that way you can feel sure your sons or grandsons will be able to inherit a still working old family air loom

Low oil pressure may be from not needing that much at such a low RPM or the oiling system may be so sludge up it can’t flow properly.

 

[Festus]

If it doesn't need a rear crank seal and the crank shaft is in good shape, there is no need to split the tractor. Remove the oil pan and remove a couple connecting rod bearings and a couple main bearings to check the journals. Look at the back of the bearings to see if the crank has been turned down already. You'll need to know this when ordering the rebuild kit. Remove the clutch inspection cover if there is one, and check for any sign of oil leakage from the rear seal. Obviously check the front seal also. Check the water pump over good too. Definitely install the correct thermostat along with the rebuild. Engines run most efficiently between 190 and 210 degrees. Running with no thermostat is a bad idea. I wouldn't think of going this far without doing a valve job also. A valve job will probably make as much difference in power as the new pistons, rings, and cylinders. As far as oil pressure, I'm not familiar with your particular engine, but old, low rpm engines don't need much oil pressure. They have much simpler oiling systems then many more modern engines. It will be obvious when you get it apart and look at it.

 

[Patrick62]

Decisions!

Family heirloom
It all started about this time last year. A thousand logs to load up and haul out. Needed cheap tractor. $1500 for this thing sight unseen. they said it "runs good". more accurately to say "it runs". I replaced the water pump first thing last year, it was screaming. The starter quit, I rigged it to get another month outta it, then it busted off the nose cone (lost in the bottom of the bell housing) replacement starter works good but the flywheel teeth are 1/2 gone! I could only imagine the clouds of smoke if you heated this thing up to 180.... which is no doubt why the thermostat was removed!

According to sources there should be about 3 times as much oil pressure as I got. probably loose mains/rods. Who knows how much lift the cam has. The sleeves and pistons are affordable. considering the overall condition of the tractor it really isn't worth trying to fix everything to perfect condition. the transmission has it's own personality and problems.

I gotta shuffle a few more piles around and then maybe look into taking it apart!

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions.

 

[Steve NW WI]

I'd split it, and replace the clutch and flywheel/ring gear while you're at it. Splitting isn't a bad job if you can borrow or make a pair of splitting stands. I split one using only blocks and a floor jack once out of youth and ignorance, that made my life a lot more difficult than a quick fabrication job making stands would have been.

BTW, the thermostat might actually help the smoking/oil consumption/plug fouling. Engines "tighten up" a bit as they warm up, with pistons and rings expanding a bit to fill the bore better. Still, this sounds like a candidate for an overhaul.

What model are you working on, BTW?