Anybody try to build a super splitter

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harrybeaver

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I have a hydraulic splitter, for what I paid I could not build one cheaper. I am looking at the super split and think it would be a nice project to build one. Have any of you done this? My biggest question is how the rack and pinion engage and disengage?
 
Definitely interested in this thing. I'd love to see a homebuilt version. I'd rather build 1 of these than a hydro splitter.
 
Very glad it's the best bang for te buck splitter out there. Fast cheap to operate and very reliable. If something happened to this one I would buy another tomorrow.

Scott
 
I think these would be more difficult to build but cheaper than a hydraulic splitter. Anyone in connecticut that would let me see theirs and get some measurements?
 
You can get the rack and pinion from mcmaster carr for about $150, for flyweights I will use 45# dumbells the rest will be machined from scrap in my spare time. I think I could build one for ~$300, then the cost of the motor.
 
Thanks, I'd be most interested in your progress. What is the application of the r/p, i may know where one is..
 
For flywheels you could always use bandsaw wheels. Maybe even a flywheel off a big truck. You know they are true and already drilled in the center.

Scott
 
How about using a rear end off a garden tractor with wheel weights,belts would ride on the inside of rim and would be balanced.Bearings/bushings are already there?
You can find Craftsman /MTD's with blown engines on craigslist for about $100
A cam to release the pinion at the end of it's travel (somehow),springs to return.
Just a thought!
Mark
 
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For flywheels you could always use bandsaw wheels. Maybe even a flywheel off a big truck. You know they are true and already drilled in the center.

Scott

Beware of cast bandsaw wheels [or anything else cast] I lost a 24 incher on my bandmill years ago, without good guards, well........ Most cast bandwheels and such have a max. rpm. On the 24" Browning sheaves I use now it's about 900 rpm.
 
Thanks, I'd be most interested in your progress. What is the application of the r/p, i may know where one is..

Its what moves the push plate. I am not sure what size and pitch they use, really need to see one in person in order to reverse engineer this thing.
 
I mean what is the normal application that M/Carr's rack applies to? They may have a common use, therefore a good place to look for a used on

All these parts are usually fairly universal.
 
There was a guy about a year ago on this site building a copy of the super splitter. He even had a couple of videos of the trial and error portion of his build. I just spent a little time looking, but couldn't find it. I have been looking for a used super splitter for a few years and CANNOT find one. It appears that guys that buy them never want to sell them. I have found 2 in my area that are still in use, not for sale, and both are over 15 years old. I think that speaks volumes of the quality and efficiency of the super splitter. I wish I had an extra 3 grand laying around.
 
You can get the rack and pinion from mcmaster carr for about $150, for flyweights I will use 45# dumbells the rest will be machined from scrap in my spare time. I think I could build one for ~$300, then the cost of the motor.

The flywheels on the mid size ss weigh 75 pounds i believe. you may want to use something around that weight imo.
 
I have a hydraulic splitter, for what I paid I could not build one cheaper. I am looking at the super split and think it would be a nice project to build one. Have any of you done this? My biggest question is how the rack and pinion engage and disengage?

to engage the rack and pinoin there is what i call a control. i don't have a pic, but i'll try to describe it. starting at the handle going down you have rod (threaded rod works well) that goes to the "control" which is a round of steel tubing with a pin gonig thru it. this makes a pivot. welded to the round tubing are a couple of gussets. the gussets hold roller bearings. you pull on the handle, the handle pulls the rod, the rod pulls the "control", the control pushes down on the rack gear engaging the rack and pinion. the bearings roll against the top of the rack. the rack also has a bevel on the back end of it as a type of automatic return. if the bevel isn't right it won't disengage properly. then you just push down on the handle. to pull the rack back, there is a spring that goes under one side of the ram around the back side of the frame to the other side of the ram. i believe ss has a basic schematic on their web site. been around ss my whole life. hope this was a bit of help. good luck.
 

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