Anybody Use this maul ?

[lacewood]

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/products_id/1677 I was wondering how this beast works before I get it ???

 

[coog]

I think it should have a unbreakable handle for that dough.That little sleeve would hardly stand up to a chunk of Hedge or Hickory when, not if, you miss.Let us know if you get one.

 

[Wood Scrounge]

I have never used it but it seems expensive to me.

 

[iowawoodcutter]

I had one that had a sleeve like that except it was plastic. It broke after about three months right below the sleeve. Because of the plastic handle, it is impossible to find a replacement handle that will fit. I would find out how easy it is to replace the handle.

Iowa

 

[NDtreehugger]

Noop but

Id keep the cash all your doing is bustin wood
theses are the 2 I use, less then $50.00 into the both of them and they crack wood as good as anything, I wood consider it a $100.00 waist of saw money

:chainsawguy:

6 pounder for the easy stuff
12 pounder for the no so easy stuff

 

[clawmute]

I got tired of replacing wood handles so welded a 1 1/2" pipe handle on mine. Has lasted for years.

 

[stihl sawing]

I don't see 140 dollars there. Nice looking maul just not that good.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Id keep the cash all your doing is bustin wood
theses are the 2 I use, less then $50.00 into the both of them and they crack wood as good as anything, I wood consider it a $100.00 waist of saw money

:chainsawguy:

6 pounder for the easy stuff
12 pounder for the no so easy stuff

Note the slightly convex taper on the above heads from the handle out to the blade edge, especially on the big 12-pounder. I found that to be be very important, and my 8-lb maul also has that shape. With a concave taper, the maul head will often stick in the log, and that drives you nuts--often requiring a sledge hammer to knock it loose.

Note that the head on the expensive maul that was posted appears to have a slightly concave taper, and in my book, that's a no-no.

 

[lacewood]

yea it is a lot of money but the iron sleeve seems like it would protect the handle well. If I added the cost of all the replacement handles for my 6and 8 pound mauls it just might equal the cost of that maul ! I just want some user feedback before I spend 140 If not iam going the route of the welded pipe!

 

[stihl sawing]

I have an old monster maul that has been used many years. Never has it broke a weld. I even run over the handle with a truck years ago and bent the handle a little. I know it's heavy but it cost a lot less than 140 and will not break. You can still buy them but i don't think their as good as the old ones. If you do all your splittin with a maul[i used to] then it may be worth it. I would want to see one and handle it before i dished out that kind of money.The handle looks bent worse in the pic. the other one i made myself out of an old maul someone threw away.

 

[iowawoodcutter]

yea it is a lot of money but the iron sleeve seems like it would protect the handle well. If I added the cost of all the replacement handles for my 6and 8 pound mauls it just might equal the cost of that maul ! I just want some user feedback before I spend 140 If not iam going the route of the welded pipe!

Listen to what the wooddoc says about the concave taper. It is wise and I have found it to be very true. I would weld a pipe before I spent 140 dollars on a maul. Above I posted about a handle breaking below the plastic sleeve. I could see that happening with the 140 dollar job, especially since there is no give in the steel collar and I would think there would be a lot of pressure at that point.

 

[iowawoodcutter]

I have an old monster maul that has been used many years. Never has it broke a weld. I even run over the handle with a truck years ago and bent the handle a little. I know it's heavy but it cost a lot less than 140 and will not break. You can still buy them but i don't think their as good as the old ones. If you do all your splittin with a maul[i used to] then it may be worth it. I would want to see one and handle it before i dished out that kind of money.The handle looks bent worse in the pic. the other one i made myself out of an old maul someone threw away.

you have the exact same monster maul I have. Same color and everything.

 

[Soilarch]

If you just want a really nice maul, sure...that or the G. Bruks would definitely be nice. (For their prices though you could find a good knifemaker...err, 'bladesmith' that is comfortable forging instead of just stock removal and have him make you EXACTLY what you want. If he's worth a hill of beans he'll know not to heat treat and temper it like a normal knife blade but check just in case.)

If you're worried about longevity, like me, then I may have FINALLY found the answer. Look around the internet long enough (or even the hardware stores close by) and you'll find mauls with a mattock/pick axe head-handle on them. There's no way that one can slip off without completely shattering the handle inside or behind the head. The one I found had a fiberglass handle and ran me about $28. Granted, it was a 6# but I like 6's.

Even the all-steel generic "monster mauls" aren't holding up to my expectations:censored:
At the current rate its bending it'll be broke before long. Weld is already cracked.

 

[hausfire]

Buy a wesserling from sweden out of the Garret Wade catalog and I love it. I also use a snow and healy out of Bangor, Maine. for the bigeer stuff

 

[cityevader]

ditto on welding some water pipe of proper diameter, hammered it a bit to sheeze onto hole's shape, welded it on put an elbow fitting on the end for a handle pommel. dipped the end foot or so in tool handle rubber, comfy and super ergonomic because you can make it the perfect length for your personal swing.

 

[stihl sawing]

you have the exact same monster maul I have. Same color and everything.

LOL, I hope you're handle is straighter.

 

[Wet1]

Looks like a rip-off for that much money.

 

[aquan8tor]

Note the slightly convex taper on the above heads from the handle out to the blade edge, especially on the big 12-pounder. I found that to be be very important, and my 8-lb maul also has that shape. With a concave taper, the maul head will often stick in the log, and that drives you nuts--often requiring a sledge hammer to knock it loose.

Note that the head on the expensive maul that was posted appears to have a slightly concave taper, and in my book, that's a no-no.

I'd have to agree about the taper. The head seems a little light for that width, too. That width & flat taper could be a good thing sometimes; you know how annoying it is when your maul gets stuck in the middle of a big log and the sledge is wider than the head of a 6 or 8 lb maul......you can't hit the maul, and have to use splitting wedges to open it up from the side. At least, that's happened to me more than once with stringy less than dry oak and locust. When you get just beyond halfway, it starts to close back on the maul. :grrr: BTW, all the "monster" mauls that I've seen that are cheap are made in CHINA, and pieces of :censored: whose welds break if you miss with a really big dense log. I don't know about spending $140 on a maul, but this really does look like a well engineered and made-for life kind of tool. That said, I like the one in my shed just fine.

 

[coog]

you have the exact same monster maul I have. Same color and everything.

I do too.I found that you have to leave them out in the weather a couple of times to get the rust pitting;it gives a much better grip.I wonder how many of the "cushioned grips" survived past the first day of use? I have split hundreds of cords with mine and it makes it the favorite part of the wood-making proccess.

 

[iowawoodcutter]

LOL, I hope you're handle is straighter.

yes, it is still straight.