Anyone willing to hook one of these to your chainsaw?

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I bought a mingo marker years ago and that is the best $30 (or whatever I paid for it back then) in have spent when it comes to cutting firewood.
It is very easy, cheap to operate, fast, very accurate and versatile (since it has different wheels for different lengths of rounds).

What is nice is your load of wood is nice and tight and the same thing goes for your wood shed.
 
I guess I'm not good enough to eyeball the length so I use a carpenter crayon with a stick most of the time or a piece of string takes 1 to 2 minutes and its precise. My stove won't take a stick 18.5" and then you have to pull it out and take it outside to cool off, major PIA.
 
I open my hand flat.....distance from end of pinky to end of thumb is 8". I remember a spot on the log where the 8" falls then start there for the next 8". For increments below 8" use spots on your hand (i.e. knuckles) to get the length desired. But after just a few full hand measurements you will be able to know where the next 2", 3", 4" additional inches will be. Very quick....no tools to buy or attach or carry.

Stihl ms211, 361, 660
 
I try to cut everything for my furnace at 22-24". I have always used my bar, when in doubt. But I have cut long enough now it really doesn't matter. I used to sell a lot of firewood, some customers wanted 16-18" and some wanted 22-24" I used to mark each saw with a piece of duck tape torn half into, one piece at 17" one at 23". Now days I use my bar some but usually eyeball. So my answer to the OP's question is no, but to each his own.
 
Well, my problem is I was used to cutting it around 8" for the Warm Morning 510 coal stove I had, but that is way small for the Englander 30.

Hard to get used to cutting it in longer lengths, and find myself cutting it shorter sometimes.

Like the looks of the paint marker system, hadn't seen that one before....


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 
I built my own marker based on some of the posts here.

Go to the hardware store and pick up a marking paint holder (http://www.amazon.com/RUST-OLEUM-210188-Rust-Ileum-12-Inch-Marking/dp/B000LDLO5G) I got mine cheaper than this one, but its a photo of something similar.

Drill a small hole in the end of it, then put a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" threaded rod in the hole, and secure it with a few nuts and lockwashers.

Now you have a handheld marking tool that works similar to a mingo, but it doesnt matter if the tree is straight or not because you dont need to roll it down the tree. You can adjust the rod to whatever length you want when you need to change sizes.
 
If my wife bought me that thing....it would get used about as much as the bar on that nice looking saw you have there :) sorry....I've had a few drinks.
 
Okay everyone. I went and tested this thing and it is a total waste of money. I went back to a zip tie after my second cut. Some ideas work and some don't. Still a good idea to try different things. You never know when something might actually work out :)
 
I like keeping my firewood the same length. This is a fairly new product and so I ordered it today to see how it might help:
FirewoodMeasuringDevice.jpg


please re post picture in WTF thread it kinda more suited in there
 
that's really bulky compared to other set ups out there. I sell the qick stix and the mingo marker

The quick stix are useless. The plastic rod will break the first time one uses it (BTDT). I broke 3 of them just setting the saw down. Replaced with a metal rod threaded to fit the union nut from the quick stix. Haven't used it for several years now, just carry a marking stick.

Harry K
 

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