Or wear out the PTO side bearing prematurely.And too tight will break a crank.
Or wear out the PTO side bearing prematurely.And too tight will break a crank.
Those sprockets are reversible, right? May want to flip it for the new chain. Not sure how much longer it would make your sprocket last.Here it is ... I'm guessing the divots in the rim on each side of the "holes" shouldn't be there...
I suspect this wear might have something to do with my piss-poor oiler (replaced 2X under warranty and still doesn't oil worth a damn)...one of these days I need to put in a 460 high-volume oiler...
Huh, I had not noticed that but now that you point it out in the photo, it makes sense. Thanks!The side plates have been riding on the top of the bar and wearing down. The drive links have worn down...
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View attachment 1088192
Thanks, James.Lube the Clutch bearing while changing the sprocket before it ruins the crank, you're half way there at that point!
Yep, the OEM did, as well as the two oilers that were replaced under warranty. I gave up after that.I assume that saw has an adjustable oiler..
Is it not showing good oil output with bar off the saw?Yep, the OEM did, as well as the two oilers that were replaced under warranty. I gave up after that.
It stihl doesn't oil worth a crap, though it does deliver enough to prevent burning the bar...in the winter I sometimes thin the oil with kero or ATF.
I'm not sure I've ever checked, TBH. Is it OK to spin up a chainsaw with no B&C installed? For some reason I thought that was a no-no.Is it not showing good oil output with bar off the saw?
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