Auxiliary oiler info please

[cjk]

I think its time to look into putting an auxiliary oiler on my alaskan mill. The bars are showing noticeable wear.

I have the oiler on the 660 turned up all the way and only use 1/2-2/3rds of a tank of oil to a tank of fuel.
I assume that is normal?

Is there a FAQ somewhere for installing an auxiliary oiler?
Where does the oil line get plumbed into the sprocket end of the bar?
What type of fitting can be used?
Has anyone figured out a way to open and shut the valve with linkage or a cable to the throttle?

Any advice is welcome.

 

[820wards]

I think its time to look into putting an auxiliary oiler on my alaskan mill. The bars are showing noticeable wear.

I have the oiler on the 660 turned up all the way and only use 1/2-2/3rds of a tank of oil to a tank of fuel.
I assume that is normal?

Is there a FAQ somewhere for installing an auxiliary oiler?
Where does the oil line get plumbed into the sprocket end of the bar?
What type of fitting can be used?
Has anyone figured out a way to open and shut the valve with linkage or a cable to the throttle?

Any advice is welcome.

CKJ,

Here is one I made for a friends Alaskan mill. Simple and it works.

jerry-

http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/185516.htm

 

[BobL]

I think its time to look into putting an auxiliary oiler on my alaskan mill. The bars are showing noticeable wear.

I have the oiler on the 660 turned up all the way and only use 1/2-2/3rds of a tank of oil to a tank of fuel.
I assume that is normal?

It sounds like you either don't have the oiler turned up to max or have a partially blocked oil line. On max flow it should use ~80% of the old with one tank of mix.

Is there a FAQ somewhere for installing an auxiliary oiler?

There are a few pics in the milling 101 sticky

Where does the oil line get plumbed into the sprocket end of the bar?

The simplest method is not to plumb it into the bar at oil, just let the oil wick onto the point where the chain and bar kiss each other on the cutting side of the nose. It needs to be pretty close otherwise the chain will flick the oil off, the fitting should be about 1/16" above the chain.

What type of fitting can be used?

Pretty much anything can be used. Plastic reticulation plumbing fittings are cheap but will wear and fall apart after a while.I use brass because if it touches the chain it won't damage it.

Has anyone figured out a way to open and shut the valve with linkage or a cable to the throttle?

Yes - look here.

Any advice is welcome.

Be nice to your mom :smile2:

 

[cjk]

CKJ,

Here is one I made for a friends Alaskan mill. Simple and it works.

jerry-

http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/185516.htm

820, Thanks for the reply, it helps a lot.

So I can just drip it into the sprocket on the cutting side? Will this wick to the bottom of the bar?

 

[cjk]

It sounds like you either don't have the oiler turned up to max or have a partially blocked oil line. On max flow it should use ~80% of the old with one tank of mix.


There are a few pics in the milling 101 sticky


The simplest method is not to plumb it into the bar at oil, just let the oil wick onto the point where the chain and bar kiss each other on the cutting side of the nose. It needs to be pretty close otherwise the chain will flick the oil off, the fitting should be about 1/16" above the chain.


Pretty much anything can be used. Plastic reticulation plumbing fittings are cheap but will wear and fall apart after a while.I use brass because if it touches the chain it won't damage it.


Yes - look here.


Be nice to your mom :smile2:

BobL,
Yep the 660 is maxed out, double checked the screw. How do you check the oil line for flow?
I have used Stihl oil and now an alternative that the dealer recommended. Both seem really tacky and hard to pour when cold.

LOL be nice to Mom. I love this "place".

 

[820wards]

820, Thanks for the reply, it helps a lot.

So I can just drip it into the sprocket on the cutting side? Will this wick to the bottom of the bar?

Yep, it will wick to the chain and flow into the grove in the bar.

jerry-

 

[jczv]

BobL,
Yep the 660 is maxed out, double checked the screw. How do you check the oil line for flow?
I have used Stihl oil and now an alternative that the dealer recommended. Both seem really tacky and hard to pour when cold.

LOL be nice to Mom. I love this "place".

Are you using cold weather oil - I think the Stihl version comes in a blue bottle. I'll double check what I have when I get home. These days in Wisconsin it's either 15 or 40 so depending on the day of the week you may need it.

 

[john taliaferro]

Were dripping used fryer oil [peanut] oil out of aux on to tip of bar , like Jerry said works good . Do listen to your Mom it will save some headaches ,and skin.

 

[twoclones]

I'm using the Granberg Aux Oiler Kit on my chainsaw mill. It is plumbed into the bar and feeds oil directly to the drive links. Frankly, I don't see how dripping oil on the cutters could lubricate the bar since centrifugal force will be flinging the oil away from the groove and drive links.

In cold weather, I have diluted my oil with about 20% mineral spirits to get it flowing from the aux tank.

 

[BobL]

I'm using the Granberg Aux Oiler Kit on my chainsaw mill. It is plumbed into the bar and feeds oil directly to the drive links. Frankly, I don't see how dripping oil on the cutters could lubricate the bar since centrifugal force will be flinging the oil away from the groove and drive links.

Centrifugal force only operates when the chain is turning around the nose of the bar. If the drip point is located just after the nose curve ends then there is no centrifugal force. There is still a "fling or flick factor" if the drip is release from too high above the chain onto the chain otherwise wicking the oil onto the line between the chain and bar seems to work reasonably well. I have tried both ways and the drip mechanism seems to work just as well at lubing the bar and chain especially if a thinner lube like canola is used. The drip mechanism also enables about an inch more of cutting length to be extracted out of sprocket nose bars because they don't interfere with the sprocket.

Here is about the amount of oil I like to see pooling on the bar.

 

[gemniii]

It sounds like you either don't have the oiler turned up to max or have a partially blocked oil line. On max flow it should use ~80% of the old with one tank of mix.

Bob - Is that for your danged Aussie oiler? Remember us'n in the US get the "limited drip" oiler by default. Designed to not get a drop on the ground and only to be used with Stihl chain.

cjk - slap on an aux oiler and look into getting the upgraded oiler the rest of the world gets. I put the upgraded oiler on both my 660's. They will even sling oil now.

Search on my name for a thread on it.

 

[BobL]

Bob - Is that for your danged Aussie oiler? Remember us'n in the US get the "limited drip" oiler by default. Designed to not get a drop on the ground and only to be used with Stihl chain.

Yeah - sorry about that.

 

[john taliaferro]

We do run Stihl bar oil in the saw ,then drip peanut oil out of a small silicon hose that rubs the bar. I drilled the oil hole in the bar just a little and deburred the hole .When i forget to turn on the aux the 660 still has oil in the bar just not enough for me .

 

[Fallguy1960]

John what size hole did you drill and where did you locate it?

 

[john taliaferro]

The regular oil hole i just went up a bit size helps keep the chips from plugging it up . Ran canola oil on some white oak today its thicker than peanut oil doesn't seam to work as well in aux tank. Mike said he counted 9 nails i do love my new grinder gonna get broke in tomorrow.

 

[cjk]

Thanks for the tips so far. I want to get the valve as close to the bar as possible to keep the mess down. My thinking is I won't have a tube full of oil dripping after I close the valve. Having a cable or linkage to a lever on the valve is also in my plans.

Looking at several hardware stores I haven't found the perfect valve yet. I did find this one. Amazon.com: VP-RSV-04 Remote Smoke Valve: Toys & Games
This valve should use neoprene tubing with an ID of 3/32.

Is that ID big enough to flow bar oil? Sounds kind of small.
Get the valve and use thinner oil?

 

[820wards]

I'm using the Granberg Aux Oiler Kit on my chainsaw mill. It is plumbed into the bar and feeds oil directly to the drive links. Frankly, I don't see how dripping oil on the cutters could lubricate the bar since centrifugal force will be flinging the oil away from the groove and drive links.

In cold weather, I have diluted my oil with about 20% mineral spirits to get it flowing from the aux tank.

Twoclones,

Would you happen to have a closeup picture of the piece that mounts to the bar. I'm interested in how they attach it. I just got a 50" for my mill and need to set up the nose oiling system.

Thanks
jerry-