Axe restoration thread

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What is everyone’s preferred/favorite/best method of restoring an axe head?

Wire wheel on a grinder? Vinegar bath? Evaporust? Electrolysis?

For those that have been doing this for years, does one way last longer against rust? Or once you coat it with oil, does it really even matter?
I use electrolysis... I started doing so when people started giving me their grandfather's or father's hand tools. They did this because nobody knew what most of them were for or thought power tools were mandatory for even the simplest of tasks... Ugh! Anyhow, neglect was often a problem whether the tools were fine machinist tools or sledge hammers with broken handles. I recently did an axe my son found in the woods and a hatchet head he got at a yard sale. The woods find axe's handle was almost entirely rotted away. Both heads went through two sessions of electrolysis. The first loosened the big chunks of rust. After a wire brushing they went back for another session. This time I finished the process with a couple trips through my ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green, and a rub down with a scotch bright pad. to remove the dark dirty film left from the electrolysis. Both heads came out great.

Benefits of electrolysis are that it is a self limiting process... once the rust is gone it stops. Another is that it doesn't remove sound metal the way grinders, sanders, needlers, acids, and wire wheels can. It also reaches surfaces that are difficult to reach with abrasives, e.g., the eye of an axe, cracks in the poll. Let's face it, people use them for hammers and strike them with hammers for splitting, so finding and cleaning the damage is important... as is removing mushrooms from polls. Electrolysis is also a passive process in that you set it up and walk away while the vast majority of the work is done.

Regarding preservation after cleaning. My observations are that by getting rid of all the corrosion, including inside the eye, hairline cracks in the poll, inside the rough surfaces often found on the edge of the beard, etc., it allows preservative oils to reach all sound surfaces. I typically coat not only the handles but the axe heads with boiled linseed oil at least annually and I wipe the heads down with WD-40 after every use.
 
I've said this before, but back in HS shop, I vaguely remember they said to soak the wood handle in something before installing in the head? Not sure what or just a faulty memory (more likely the latter).
Probably boiled linseed oil. It acts as a lube and helps keep the wood sound and stable... especially if you wipe the axe down with BLO at least annually. A handle that is smoothly sanded and has BLO reduces blisters on your hands too!
 
Looks great. Did you soak the wood first in something prior to rehang? Some do, I've never done it but wonder if its more of a lubricant to make it go easier. Is the head a Kelly Perfect?
The head didn’t have any markings. I did not presoak the handle but once I got it fitted, I’ve got three coats of boiled linseed oil and up near the eye it really soaked it in.
 
A couple more. I think all these are on house handles except the double bit was one I picked up at lowes
 

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Any Collins pro's around? My buddy sent me a link to a local auction with a Homelite XLAO. I've told him over and over that they were common, and not big enough to register on my collector scale. I asked if there was anything else. He said nothing worth looking at. The XL is so nice I started to go look at it in person. He said you better hurry, they close the preview at 3, and it was 2. So, I didn't go.

Now it's 6 and I started looking at the catalogue. There is a really nice Collins Busquese La Estampa, Collins and Co. Hartford, Machete. I've seen several very similar South American Collins labels, but not this exact one? Any info?
 
Any Collins pro's around? My buddy sent me a link to a local auction with a Homelite XLAO. I've told him over and over that they were common, and not big enough to register on my collector scale. I asked if there was anything else. He said nothing worth looking at. The XL is so nice I started to go look at it in person. He said you better hurry, they close the preview at 3, and it was 2. So, I didn't go.

Now it's 6 and I started looking at the catalogue. There is a really nice Collins Busquese La Estampa, Collins and Co. Hartford, Machete. I've seen several very similar South American Collins labels, but not this exact one? Any info?
I think I answered my own question? Last year I bought a WWII Collins Legitamus Machete. Went down and checked it, the same label. The WWII one has the Crown and Hammer on the other side, they didn't take pics of the other side of this one. i threw some money at it, hoping the crown is on the other side?
 
What is everyone’s preferred/favorite/best method of restoring an axe head?

Wire wheel on a grinder? Vinegar bath? Evaporust? Electrolysis?

For those that have been doing this for years, does one way last longer against rust? Or once you coat it with oil, does it really even matter?
It all depends on your definition for "Restore". I saw guys on Ebay that advertised restoring heirloom axes for several hundred dollars+. They took a flap disc and polished the head like a mirror, took several pieces of exotic wood and made a laminate handle, and produced an almost art like product. By definition of the word, that is not a restoration. They were beautiful, but they were not serviceable. The exotic wood would not hold up to use. Then you have the BBR camp of hanging a handle. Do a quicky thinning of the handle, stick it through the eye, leave a half inch sticking proud of the eye, and wedge it. I have 100 year old handles hung flush to the eye and they are still tight. American handles were not, and still are not, hung proud. If you like that look, go for it. I just wouldn't call it a restoration, I'd call it a custom, and customs can be cool. I like Evaporust for heavy rust. Mild rust, I use a piece of cloth with any light oil handy and rub and rub. I have taken heads I found with my metal detector that were one chunk of rust and polished them bright. Then Blued, or Browned them. Then a thin coat of oil is all that's needed. If the head isn't bashed up and has most of the finish is there, I remove the rust as gently as possible and keep a thin coat of oil on it.
 
It all depends on your definition for "Restore". I saw guys on Ebay that advertised restoring heirloom axes for several hundred dollars+. They took a flap disc and polished the head like a mirror, took several pieces of exotic wood and made a laminate handle, and produced an almost art like product. By definition of the word, that is not a restoration. They were beautiful, but they were not serviceable. The exotic wood would not hold up to use. Then you have the BBR camp of hanging a handle. Do a quicky thinning of the handle, stick it through the eye, leave a half inch sticking proud of the eye, and wedge it. I have 100 year old handles hung flush to the eye and they are still tight. American handles were not, and still are not, hung proud. If you like that look, go for it. I just wouldn't call it a restoration, I'd call it a custom, and customs can be cool. I like Evaporust for heavy rust. Mild rust, I use a piece of cloth with any light oil handy and rub and rub. I have taken heads I found with my metal detector that were one chunk of rust and polished them bright. Then Blued, or Browned them. Then a thin coat of oil is all that's needed. If the head isn't bashed up and has most of the finish is there, I remove the rust as gently as possible and keep a thin coat of oil on it.
This is a metal detector find I saved, polished, browned, and made a handle from a piece of Ash firewood. I have never coated it with anything and there is zero rust on it. I don't call it a restoration, I call it, "one I saved". I'm not a wood worker or blacksmith. This was a fun project to make a throwing ax. SVK dropped in one day and he took a couple throws with it. It's a fun little axe. I ground over a pound of steel off off it.
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This is a metal detector find I saved, polished, browned, and made a handle from a piece of Ash firewood. I have never coated it with anything and there is zero rust on it. I don't call it a restoration, I call it, "one I saved". I'm not a wood worker or blacksmith. This was a fun project to make a throwing ax. SVK dropped in one day and he took a couple throws with it. It's a fun little axe. I ground over a pound of steel off off it.
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What is "the brown" ... who on this thread had a oak tannin coating... asking because I have 3 raw heads looking for a coating.. thanks in advance
 
What is "the brown" ... who on this thread had a oak tannin coating... asking because I have 3 raw heads looking for a coating.. thanks in advance
Browning was a process used on firearm metal (probably any metal) before Blueing. It is a rusting process. I use Birchwood Casey Browning Solution. It's available at most gun stores, Wallmart, or online. You heat the piece of metal and use a swab slather the liquid on. You get the metal hot enough the solution sizzles when it hits. WAY below the temp to affect the temper. I think I have 6 coats on that head. The handle the head is on is just a junker handle that I use for that purpose, it's not part of the hanging process.
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Here's the Collins Machete I got. The pic I first saw looked like a tourist attraction knife. But the stickers are legit, and it has the Collins Legitimus Logo on the other side. The leather sheath is well made. This is the newest Collins item I have. The Hammer and Crown Logo that is usually stamped into the steel, looks like it is acid etched or some kind of photo process. You can not feel it with your fingers. I'm going to put this one to use. The State of WV is paying me to eradicate the invasive species, Autumn Olive, on 16 acres of my property. I'm pulling the big ones out and chipping the brush. The little ones I'll just hack off and spray with Garlon 4e.
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Browning was a process used on firearm metal (probably any metal) before Blueing. It is a rusting process. I use Birchwood Casey Browning Solution. It's available at most gun stores, Wallmart, or online. You heat the piece of metal and use a swab slather the liquid on. You get the metal hot enough the solution sizzles when it hits. WAY below the temp to affect the temper. I think I have 6 coats on that head. The handle the head is on is just a junker handle that I use for that purpose, it's not part of the hanging process.
From my prior life as an 18th century gunsmith (interpreter): Until the end of the 18th century gun barrels were typically left in the white (e.g., the British land pattern muskets, AKA Brown Bess) or charcoal blued as part of the manufacturing process.
The British troops polished their barrels regularly to keep them bright. This polishing was expensive in terms of manufacturing, wear, and troop time and was eventually abandoned in favor of browning and bees wax in the waning years of the 18th century.
My personal long rifle is modeled after Lancaster rifles of the Federalist Period and is charcoal blued.
In that period axes were colored by the forging and welding processes and were bright where a file and stone was applied to them... no other finish.
That said, time had a way of making the bright and blued brown. In your case I think it would be fair to say you've antiqued your axe. It looks nice and will surely look nicer after use burnishes the finish.
I use electrolysis to clean up old tools and after removing the crud I generally put boiled linseed oil on them and let it go at that in terms of a finish. Maintenance... WD40 after use or sharpening.
For my Raven I used WD 40 and a brass brush to remove the crude (it wasn't rusted). I was rewarded by finding some of the factory paint left in the relief lettering and image.
 
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Found this brush axe at an estate sale today for $25. Handle isn’t right but it’s ok, condition of the head is the best I’ve ever found.
If you mean the brush axe head isn't hung well... that appears to be true from those side shots. The handle itself looks OK to me. Those brush axes were hung on single bit axe handles... which that is. If the handle is generally sound you could rehang it with that handle as it looks like there is room left to insert and handle deeper. After rehanging I'd give it a coat of boiled linseed oil every day for at least a couple weeks. Sand in the wet oil for the first 3-5 coats using 150-180 grit paper. Keep it wet all over until it stays wet all over... after a half hour or so wipe off the excess oil and set it aside and repeat the next day. The BLO and sanding swarf will smooth out the handle. Ones I've done that way were left with blister free results.

This is my brush hook. It is also stamped NYCRR which stands for New York Central Rail Road. I got it with no handle. It's sprayed down with WD-40 and the sheath I made for it had Neats Foot Oil applied to it. The oily look of both toned down after a while. I gave it a sharpening while I was at it... I haven't used it too much in recent years as I got a Stihl FS130 that I set up with various brush blades as needed...

The Brush hook is 55+ years old. I know that as New York Central merged with the Pennsylvania Railroad in 1968 to form Penn Central. Penn Central was taken over by ConRail in 1976.


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