bookerdog
The New Champ
I also tried some baileys low pro out. It only has a 1/4 kelf . I had no problems with it on a 20 inch bar. It is also faster.
thompson1600 said:Did it work on a regular 3/8 .050 bar? Did the regular 3/8 sprocket work with this chain?
Thanks
tom
I've just tried 20 inch has worked real well. Going to try 24inch next week. I have heard people say 24 is max. Get a loop and try it then tell me if it works or not:biggrinbounce2:aquan8tor said:anybody?................
Bueller?
Bueller?
Good luck on your shed. I did a test run with a new baileys low pro and a new baileys 3/8 I was suprised how much faster the low pro was. This was running in a 16 inch maple. I still want to see how it stands up but, Im pretty impressed with it. At least in the smaller lenghts.aquan8tor said:I didnt think about it that way. I suppose I'm going to try it (carefully) and get a backup 24" bar and mend the chain if it breaks. Just trying to waste as little as possible. I'm going to saw up a bunch of cherry & walnut in the next month or two. (gotta finish my shed first). Appreciate the insight.
Im using that chain on a 372 right now. I will be changing sprockets on my 3120 and giving it a try. My 372 is ported and muff moded. It is a screamer. I love the 372. I hit a bolt with the skinny chain chewed the bolt up pretty good and took a nice chunk in the chain. It didn't break though. Im suprized at the diff. in speed between the 3/8 and the low pro it is very noticeable.aquan8tor said:what are you running the lowpro chain with?? I'm personally using a 394XP that I've modded the muffler on; I was going to polish the exhaust but its already quite smooth. Porting will come later when I feel like I wont FS*&TUP. I'm just worried that the 7.1+HP might be too much. A couple logs I know have buried barbed wire. I'm almost positive I can miss it by judging where it is, but am I risking a break with the skinny chain?
I'm asking b/c you've got 3120 listed in your signature. Thanks.
If my 36 inch bars for my 395 milling saw were .050 and not .063, I would buy or make a length of LP and try myself. The thickness of the kerf doesn't seem to be much different, but if you say it goes easier, I'd like to test that out myself. However, since they don't make LP in .063, it's academic I guess. I do have a 32 inch .050 bar for my MS460 mag... I guess I could make one up for that, but then the 460 Stihl isn't as powerful as my 395 Husky so it would be hard to tell. Might just make them both even?bookerdog said:Im suprized at the diff. in speed between the 3/8 and the low pro it is very noticeable.
This is one advantage of running a double ended bar, the chain can be adjusted at the handle end of the bar very quickly. Sure beats removing everything to get to the adjuster on the saw.aquan8tor said:sounds like something I'd do. Say, you're using your husky to mill with; does it have the PITA front located chain tensioner? Any ideas on making this easier?? I was thinking about taking a big landscaping spike or something--1/4" or better dia., and heating it up with an oxy/mapp torch--the cheap bernzomatic one from lowe's, and bending it, then using a grinder to make a 90deg. screwdriver.
I havent milled but a few hundred BF yet, but seems like whenever I get into a rythm and get my cuts really smooth, the chain needs to be tensioned, and I have to dismantle the bar clamps on the mill, which means on the alaskan undoing the depth clamps too, b/c a bar wrench wont fit under the guide to loosen the bar clamp. Whole mess. My socket wrench doesnt fit either. Looks like an excuse to buy a set of offset ratcheting box-end wrenches, or whatever they call them. Saw them on sale for like $50. Tools.tools.
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My 372 has a side tension. Now the 3120 does not I did something like your taking about with a oversized screwdriver. It works:jester:aquan8tor said:sounds like something I'd do. Say, you're using your husky to mill with; does it have the PITA front located chain tensioner? Any ideas on making this easier?? I was thinking about taking a big landscaping spike or something--1/4" or better dia., and heating it up with an oxy/mapp torch--the cheap bernzomatic one from lowe's, and bending it, then using a grinder to make a 90deg. screwdriver.
I havent milled but a few hundred BF yet, but seems like whenever I get into a rythm and get my cuts really smooth, the chain needs to be tensioned, and I have to dismantle the bar clamps on the mill, which means on the alaskan undoing the depth clamps too, b/c a bar wrench wont fit under the guide to loosen the bar clamp. Whole mess. My socket wrench doesnt fit either. Looks like an excuse to buy a set of offset ratcheting box-end wrenches, or whatever they call them. Saw them on sale for like $50. Tools.tools.
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