Bar Dressing

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Howdy,
There are designated bar rail grinders that use cup wheels to square the rails. They're expensive enough that you have to be doing a fair amount of bars to make them worthwhile. With the bar rail closer, you want to close the bar to the worse spot. Then use a bar wrench. Hold the bar wrench at an angle to the bar and tap it with a hammer so it walks down the bar as you're tapping it. This will slowly open the tight spots you've created with the closer. Just use a piece of chain to check the fit as you go. One thing to keep in mind is that depending on bar condition, you might have to remove burrs from the inside of the rail also. I like to use a dremel with the thin cutting disc to do it.
Regards
Gregg
 
I use a dead blow hammer and a one foot section of railroad track as an anvil. Usually I go a little to far but use a screwdriver to open the rail and a few chainsaw drive links of the gauge the bars is supposed to be to measure. Once you get a section that is right the screwdriver can be driven down the grove to move the job along faster. I've got a bar closer tool but it doesn't work very well.
 
Howdy,
I'm not sure if this is what's happening to you or not. The depth of the closer is important to results. If it's set too low on the bar, it squeezes the bar more than the rails and they won't close. If it's set too high on the bar it closes the rails but, they spring back open.
Regards
Gregg
 
I use a (Stihl) flat file to dress the bars rails, free hand (with leader gloves on) and by aiming down the rails with the naked eye.

When the chains drive links bottom out (had it happen on one bar so far) I use a small angle grinder and a thin diamond wheel to deepen the groove where it became too shallow.

I don't own any fancy special tools and just make things at hand work to a satisfactory manner, this practice served me quite well thus far.
 
I use a disc sander with a table attachment set at 90', a bar rail closer for badly widened grooves, then a small 100mm angle grinder with a 1mm disc to deepen the groove, all going well I can wear the tip sprocket down until it wears to spikey points & the chain starts riding on the tip sides, or for a hard nosed bar the stellite is worn away.
Fanks
 
Wow. Great deal. I looked up Milltown. God's country. Too far to take my bars unless we meet for IU tailgate.

LoveStihlQuality
 
Grande Dog said:
Howdy,
There are designated bar rail grinders that use cup wheels to square the rails. They're expensive enough that you have to be doing a fair amount of bars to make them worthwhile. With the bar rail closer, you want to close the bar to the worse spot. Then use a bar wrench. Hold the bar wrench at an angle to the bar and tap it with a hammer so it walks down the bar as you're tapping it. This will slowly open the tight spots you've created with the closer. Just use a piece of chain to check the fit as you go. One thing to keep in mind is that depending on bar condition, you might have to remove burrs from the inside of the rail also. I like to use a dremel with the thin cutting disc to do it.
Regards
Gregg
Click to expand...
Yes an easy fix with the slightest tap on the bar wrench for tight spots.
Best for checking is a short piece of NEW chain.
I was teaching another Faller one night on the barge camp and I forgot & gauged it tight to a more worn chain opposed to his newest one. He spent quite awhile trying to run it in smoking his clutch he said...lol
I guess I screwed him pretty good.
I did teach the bar wrench trick but he just rode it out.
 
Westboastfaller said:
Yes an easy fix with the slightest tape on the bar wrench for tight spots.
Best for checking is a short piece of NEW chain.
I was teaching another Faller one night on the barge camp and I forgot & gauged it tight to a more worn chain opposed to his newest one. He spent quite awhile trying to run it in smoking his clutch he said...lol
I guess I screwed him pretty good.
I did teach the bar wrench trick but he just rode it out.
Click to expand...
How long did he cuss you?

LoveStihlQuality
 
LoveStihlQuality said:
How long did he cuss you?

LoveStihlQuality
Click to expand...

I felt like $hit when he told me. Glad I didn't have to see him till 4 hour later.. Lol
Anyway, is cuts were good, he learnt something and I will never make that mistake again. There is always good out of bad. He should have use his bar wrench and Fallers axe to fix it.:yes:
 
Thanks!!!
I had the pleasure of purchasing a new one in '86 from the man pictured,who invented it.
I stopped by while vacationing out there hunting for parts on my 1952 version that I had bought second hand.
the hammer was missing and ALL of the wheel guards!!..I had the serial number of it and the motor that I was hunting a nut for holding the grinding wheel.
he looked up the serial number and found it was sold to center Conway saw works in 1954,and no he had no nuts for the motor.
I was just beginning to do a lot of bar work with the old one,so I bought new one.he told me the one I was buying was no. 3 in new Hampshire.
funny thing that so far,nobody wants to hammer the rails or use the groover wheel...
I've used a lot of cup wheels for squaring the rails.

I wonder what the cost is today?
probarshop.jpg
 

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