Bar oil and gloves question.

[STLfirewood]

I just bought another 10 gallons of bar oil today. It was $4.62 a gallon. Is there a source to buy this in bulk for a cheaper price. This will last me a little while I usually go through about 15 gallons a year. 2-3 years ago i was paying $2.50-$2.75 a gallon. I just hate that the price is going up that much and plus I'm cheap. Also what are the best gloves you have found on the market for the price. I go through a lot of gloves splitting wood. I have had decent luck with the Stanley yellow gloves from Wal-Mart. I found some nice gloves at Big-Lots for $3 a pair. They had a double palm and lasted a long time for the price. I bought all 10 pairs and now they are used up. they haven;t had anymore come in stock. I've had gloves that cost anywhere for $1.29 to $10 a pair. None of them will last more then a few good days before they get holes. I would say 75% get holes after the first day. I actually ductape them on the fingers and the thumb to get extra days out of them. (Quit laughing it works). What do you guys use?

Thanks Scott

 

[ericjeeper]

Rural King

Has bar oil off and on sale for 3.59 a gallon and they carry winter and summer grades.
I have ran 8-10 gallons through my dolmar without any noticeable bar wear.
As for Gloves. I do not wear em much. but when I do I wear two pairs of jerseys doubled up. and when the outside gets holes I simply put a new glove under and dispose of the outer glove.

 

[sawinredneck]

Bar oil, I buy at Atwoods etc. where ever it's cheap, I dont get fussy about it, I have all my oilers cranked up to max.

I buy Tillman leather gloves, pricey but seem to last quite a while. $12-15 a pair.

 

[Poindexter]

I just bought another 10 gallons of bar oil today. It was $4.62 a gallon. Is there a source to buy this in bulk for a cheaper price.

Also what are the best gloves you have found on the market for the price.

Thanks Scott

I am still paying through the nose for Husq brand bar oil at $7 + per gallon, though I see that coming to an end as I near the bottom of the second gallon jug.

I am sort of a glove fanatic. I used to have a source for the Wells-Lamont pro grade deerskin gloves used by a buddy of mine who did studio lighting work in So-Cal. The cheapest glove I know of that fits my hand well are the $10 all leather W-L (made in China) available in the garden section at Lowes for sure and maybe Home Depot.

I can get about two cords cut, split and stacked before I wear a hole in one finger tip of each glove.

Peace,
other Scott

 

[alderman]

Gloves

I used to wear leather gloves but now I use Atlas gloves. They are a cotton glove that is coated in rubber. The rubber makes for a good grip. Their Thermafit gloves are insulated so they provide a bit of padding.

They will wear out but seem to last as well as anything else I've tried. I split about 4 cord with one pair before I got a hole in one of them.

Cost $2.50-$3.50 per pair for the Thermafit. Haven't bought their regular glove for awhile but would expect them to be less.

 

[ray benson]

I use the latex covered gloves like Atlas when using a saw. Handling firewood or splitting, a leather pair with a 4" gauntlet for more arm protection seems to work.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/5JH03

 

[Patrick62]

baileys

I pay about $7.00 gal shipped in from baileys. It is expensive, but it is good stuff. The cheaper stuff doesn't lube as well, and my saws don't really put enough out.

gloves? Oh those things! Whatever I can get in leather from the store, some are better than others, but they ain't cheap either!

-pat

 

[Butch(OH)]

I have been using the store brand at TSC. I think it is right at $4.50 Gal. now but goes on sale now and then for a buck or so less. No burned paint on my bars, no undue chain stretch, dont know what else can be asked of bar oil?

 

[timothykamp]

I just use whatever for my stihl - and gloves while splitting? Some might say I'm young and stupid, but I dont wear em - I cant get a good grip on the logs always, and after 10 cords this year, my hands are tough and calloused- so they take it alot better.

 

[joesawer]

Wal-Mart tech 2000 bar and chain oil in the automotive section, I have good results and it is cheap. Sometimes I use a gallon in two days.
If you like fabric gloves, the work safe from Bailey's are comfortable, durable, heavy enough to handle steel cable, and one of the best values around. Their timber fallers gloves are durable light weight and cool, but don't offer much penetration protection. A little pine sap worked into the palms binds the fibers and makes them last even longer. ( Ha, I found something sap is good for)
Atlas gloves are good for light duty stuff but the rubber always peels off when I use them hard. They have very good dexterity and grip.
Costco sells wells lamont cowhide gloves three pairs for $18 compared to $10 to $12 per pair at most places.
Pigskin gloves last longer in high abrasion environment.

 

[Dr. Hackemoff]

I just use whatever for my stihl - and gloves while splitting? Some might say I'm young and stupid, but I dont wear em - I cant get a good grip on the logs always, and after 10 cords this year, my hands are tough and calloused- so they take it alot better.

I didn't wear gloves much either - until about two years ago when I reached to pick up some split pieces and a rammed a very large splinter about halfway under my fingernail. I tell you - I've endured as much pain as the next guy but this was excruciating. I calmly walked into the house and LUCKILY it came out with the tweezers. I gave thanks big time for that.

SO - I don't even look at an axe without leather gloves on. Nor a chainsaw without PPE. I guess at age 46 I'm not as tough as I used to be.

 

[computeruser]

I just use whatever for my stihl - and gloves while splitting? Some might say I'm young and stupid, but I dont wear em - I cant get a good grip on the logs always, and after 10 cords this year, my hands are tough and calloused- so they take it alot better.

If/when you find the right pair of gloves, you might be amazed with the benefits they can provide. I was like you for a long time, until I finally started wearing the right gloves. Snug-fitting soft leather gloves that are slightly tacky actually do a lot to improve grip on wood, tool handles, and saws. They also protect from splinters, burns, and cuts that can quickly put an end to a job before it's done. I wear the gloves for almost any outdoor work anymore.

Food for thought, your mileage may differ.

 

[goof008]

For bar oil, I've run the stuff at Home Depot and Walmart and stepped up to the Stihl branded stuff. It all seems to work about the same, but the stihl does seem to pour easier.
Gloves for me are important, I always wear them. It's hard to find XL or XXL at most places, so when I find them I buy a few pair. The ones that last the best for splitting are the cheap suede/fabric gauntlet style ones. I found them at TSC for around $4/pair. They will last pretty well while swinging the maul. They are a bit more slippery than the deer skin ones I use for other yard work, but I chewed up a pair of the good ones in a few hours of splitting. Deer skin fit better, feel better and grip better, but they can't touch the durability of the cheaper utility gloves. Just my opinion.

 

[ShoerFast]

I like the canvas back-leather gloves, cost is lower per year then anything I found, there only about $20 bucks a dozen at a feed store here, and about the same price at Harbor Fraight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37329

Bailey's selles about the same thing, your going to ware them out, but not before they paid for themselves a 100 times over.

 

[Fubar411]

I also like the HF gloves, they are usually a buck a pair at the store on Watson (in StL)

 

[goof008]

Shoerfast, those are the same ones I was talking about...thanks for putting up a picture. They are the most economical choice.

 

[PA Plumber]

Good thread.

I have been a faithful Stihl B/C lube guy for many years. Lately I'm going through about a gallon every 4 weeks. My 026 doesn't have an adustable oiler and really spits out the lube. I'm thinking of running the cheaper stuff in that and the Echo CS-346 which I can adjust to very high flow. The 441 is still going to the $9.00/gallon Stihl oil though.

As far as gloves; handling split wood really eats gloves. I get a comfortable pair and use them till they're pretty bad, and start over.

 

[STLfirewood]

I know I am going to get flamed for this. A lot of people I know just use used motor oil. I have Used motor in a pinch. I know it's harder on the bar and chain. Here is my thinking. If you can get a cheap bar for $10-$15 woun;t it be more cost effective to use motor oil even if it wears the bar out sooner. After 3-5 gallons (depending on name brand) you have paid for the bar. So anything after that amount is money in my pocket. I know when you run the bigger bars it's harder on them. Just wondering how much it effects a 16inch bar and if it's worth it.

Scott

 

[chowdozer]

I know I am going to get flamed for this. A lot of people I know just use used motor oil. I have Used motor in a pinch. I know it's harder on the bar and chain. Here is my thinking. If you can get a cheap bar for $10-$15 woun;t it be more cost effective to use motor oil even if it wears the bar out sooner. After 3-5 gallons (depending on name brand) you have paid for the bar. So anything after that amount is money in my pocket. I know when you run the bigger bars it's harder on them. Just wondering how much it effects a 16inch bar and if it's worth it.

Scott

If history repeats itself, you will get flamed. Next time you're cutting with used bar oil think about the lack of tacky's in motor oil and how much combustion byproducts are misted into the air. May as well suck on an exhaust pipe. What's your health worth?

I prefer to just pay the price for a quality bar oil. Sometimes you can skimp and sometimes it's not worth it. It's an individual choice.

 

[goof008]

I can see using fresh motor oil in a pinch, but not used. Used us full of metal debris, acids and other nasties. As a matter of fact, I believe that used motor oil has been listed as a carcinogen just to handle. I'm sure 2-stroke exhaust isn't all that healthy for you either, and if you smoke a pack of lucky strikes while cutting, the point is moot anyway, but why add to it by using used motor oil?